Dez
Bodger Extraordinaire
An important point, that. There appear to be some fortunate folk on the list for whom cost is no object. Sadly, I am not in that group.
Cheers,
Dez
canon 35mm f2 ltm compare summicron....?
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An important point, that. There appear to be some fortunate folk on the list for whom cost is no object. Sadly, I am not in that group.
Cheers,
Dez
raid
Dad Photographer
I had the Canon 35/2 twice so far, and I let them go to others.
The OOF is better looking in the V1 Summmicron than in this Canon lens, and it is much better built.
The OOF is better looking in the V1 Summmicron than in this Canon lens, and it is much better built.
Dez
Bodger Extraordinaire
An important point, that. There appear to be some fortunate folk on the list for whom cost is no object. Sadly, I am not in that group.
Cheers,
Dez
goamules
Well-known
And 4 times more expensive. A Ferrari is faster and better looking too, but I like my Miata. How do you measure "much better built?" The delicate stippling of the metal? The more clickable click stops of the aperture? I just don't get "much better built" when comparing German to Japanese lenses. My Canons and Nikkors are as well made or better than any Leica I've handled.
Are you saying just the black Canon 35/2, or ALL Canons are "much worse built?"
On OOF, didn't you shoot a comparison of these two? Can you post it so we can see if we agree that the OOF is "better looking"?
I'm just trying to justify why someone would pay 4 times more for a similar lens. Is the build and OOF 4 times better?
Jamie Pillers
Skeptic
I guess I sort of have the same questions regarding a true comparison between these lenses. I briefly handled the Canon years ago and it seemed quite nice. But then I think Voigtlanders are nice too. I suppose I'll never know what I'm missing, but I do react skeptically to most posts that don't include some sort of personal experience-based analytical comparison. So does anyone here have both the Canon and an older version of the Summicron? If so, could you describe your comparative experiences with them? Thanks ahead of time.
Jamie Pillers
Skeptic
Oops... never mind. I just went back through the thread and found what I was looking for. 😱
raid
Dad Photographer
I prefer the Ferrari to the Miata in cars, even though I have neither of these cars.
The bokeh of the 8 element V1 Summicron is extremely pleasant. I was fortunate to get thus lens over twenty years ago for a low price (for these days). It was my first RF 35mm lens.
You can browse through hundreds of posted images by photographers with these two lenses on flickr.
raid
Dad Photographer
I bought a Canon35/2 yesterday. I want to use it thoroughly this time.
viboons
Established
Let us know how do it compare to your 35/1.8. Thanks
kuuan
loves old lenses
+1!
comparison of 35mm LTM Canons can be found here: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146172
Bingley
Veteran
According to Peter Kitchingman's book on Canon RF lenses, version 2 of the 35/2.0 lens begins w/ serial no. 37237. The lettering on the i.d. ring is also a little different on version 2; it says "CANON" in caps, instead of "Canon Camera Co. Inc.".
There are some reports on the web that Canon tweaked the lens design slightly between ver. 1 and 2, but Kitchingham's book does not mention this.
Bingley
Veteran
Looking forward to your photos with this lens, Raid.
raid
Dad Photographer
Thank you, Steve. I got the lens an hour ago. It is now on my M9.
AlwaysOnAuto
Well-known
And you haven't posted a picture taken with it yet?
C'mon man.
C'mon man.
goamules
Well-known
I shot a Canon 35/1.8 a lot for years. Finally got a 35/2.0 about a year ago. Yes, it's sharp, contrasty, and boring. I went back to the 1.8.
pepeguitarra
Well-known
(Both wide open on a Leica M9)
Here is a shot with the Canon 35/1.8 wide open in an underground parking:
CanonLTM35mmf1.8-Chinatown-LA13-1 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr
Here is a shot of a space module model at JPL with the Summicron 35/2 Version 1 (8 elements):
Galileo by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr
Here is a shot with the Canon 35/1.8 wide open in an underground parking:
CanonLTM35mmf1.8-Chinatown-LA13-1 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr
Here is a shot of a space module model at JPL with the Summicron 35/2 Version 1 (8 elements):
Galileo by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr
Spavinaw
Well-known
As I recall back in the 1990's I bought a Canon 35/2.0 C-mount movie camera lens in like new condition for $35. Of course when I unscrewed the adapter on it I had a Canon 35/2.0 LTM lens. Cool!
cqing
Member
A comparison between canon 35mm f/2 ltm with 35mm summicron pre-asph here:
http://forum.xitek.com/forum-viewthread-tid-1296613-extra-page=1-ordertype-2-t-1461900184.html
http://forum.xitek.com/forum-viewthread-tid-1296613-extra-page=1-ordertype-2-t-1461900184.html
Waus
Well-known
I have obtained a very nice example of this lens, but it has some greasy aperture blades. Does anybody have any tips to get there? I've googled etc. but can't find a repair guide on this (beautifully made)lens...
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Peter Jennings
Well-known
Accessing the blades from the rear is pretty easy. First unscrew this ring with a lens spanner:
Untitled by Peter Jennings, on Flickr
Then unscrew the rear element group with your fingers:
Untitled by Peter Jennings, on Flickr
The rear side of the blades is now exposed. To access the front you'll need to remove the name ring:
Untitled by Peter Jennings, on Flickr
The name ring is more difficult if you don't have the right rubber tool to grab it, but you can probably clean the blades adequately enough from the rear. Dab some lighter fluid on with a cotton swab, work the blades, and dry them off with some tissue, and repeat several times until the oil is no longer visible.
Untitled by Peter Jennings, on Flickr
Then unscrew the rear element group with your fingers:
Untitled by Peter Jennings, on Flickr
The rear side of the blades is now exposed. To access the front you'll need to remove the name ring:
Untitled by Peter Jennings, on Flickr
The name ring is more difficult if you don't have the right rubber tool to grab it, but you can probably clean the blades adequately enough from the rear. Dab some lighter fluid on with a cotton swab, work the blades, and dry them off with some tissue, and repeat several times until the oil is no longer visible.
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