Waus
Well-known
@Peter: thank you so much for the clear explanation and pictures-most helpfull!
Halka
Newbie
Sorry for resurrecting the thread. I have a (pretty beat) first version of the 35/2 that came with a wiggle between the optical block and barrel (though I didn't complain since I got it relatively cheap). Could there an obvious (though not to me) problem? I've tried tightening the retaining ring, but it's sitting pretty firmly already and doesn't look to be the issue.
Peter Jennings
Well-known
Some back and forth play while focusing can be normal with some Canon lenses in my experience. Usually it's related to the focus helical and mount - not the optical block. I would loosen the retaining ring and remove the optical block to check for some kind of damage.
I honestly think the lens is overrated and its reputation as a "Japanese Summicron" was from when there were a lot less alternatives to Leica LTM / M mount lenses... i.e. prior to modern Voigtlander / Zeiss LTM / M lenses.
presspass
filmshooter
I got one of these a month ago and would like to put a hood and UV filter on it since I sometimes shoot in dirty/hazardous conditions. What, if anything, works with this lens?
Waus
Well-known
The Fuji's X10 & X20 have the awkward 40mm filter thread-search for Fuji X10 /X20 hood or UV filter on eBay...(Canon never producer a lens hood for the 35mn F2)
brbo
Well-known
At one third or less of a cost of a user (and I mean "user" in eBay speak) "German Summicron" and half the size of ZM Biogon 2/35... I wonder how bad this overrated "Japanese Summicron" really is...
Sorry, I didn't mean it was bad just overrated in comparison to the nick name. That said, I'll take that biogon every single time.
presspass
filmshooter
This is why there are many flavors of ice cream. I have shot my 35 f2.0 and it's a bit too contrasty compared with my 50 1.5 Canon and 85 2.8 Super Rokkor. But I like the lower contrast of an uncoated Elmar 35 or Summar. Just goes to show everybody's taste is different. The ultimate test is - does it make photos you like? If so, it's a good lens. If not, it's not.
Yep .. .. ..
Bingley
Veteran
I've had a Canon 35/2.0 for about five years now and have shot extensively with it. It's a beautiful lens (mine is the later version) and I love the way it renders b&w in particular. Like you, I want to protect the front element, so I always use a filter. The front element is deeply enough recessed that I've never felt the need to use a hood, though, and I've never had a problem with flare in that lens (unlike the 35/1.8 I once owned).
The 40mm filter thread is a PITA, though. So, for my Canon RF lenses w/ 40 mm filter threads, I use a 40-43mm step-up ring, which I think you can still purchase from Heavystar's Ebay store, and then use 43mm filters which are easily available. The step-up ring also gives you a little additional protection from flare, further reducing the need for a hood.
You can check out my flickr page; I have an album devoted to photos with the Canon 35/2.0, and you can see that some of those photos were taken in pretty harsh light. I've never used a hood on that lens.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Peter,
Thanks for your pictures above that show how to get to the aperture etc.
My lens has the wobble too and it slightly affects focus (tested on my A7). It annoys the heck out of me
Would it help if I added a little to the brass shim ring shown in picture no.2? Or do I really need to add new grease to the helical to remedy the wobble?
Thanks!
Halka
Newbie
Peter,
Thanks for your pictures above that show how to get to the aperture etc.
My lens has the wobble too and it slightly affects focus (tested on my A7). It annoys the heck out of me
Would it help if I added a little to the brass shim ring shown in picture no.2? Or do I really need to add new grease to the helical to remedy the wobble?
Thanks!
How much does it affect focus? Is it something that would bother someone not shooting test targets? I suddenly regret giving away my NEX to my little brother, at least I could check
As far as the filter/hood goes, there have already been several mentions of Fuji X10/X20 accessories using 40mm threads. The designation for the hood (two part, circular, vented) is LH-JX10. It has a 52mm filter thread that is recessed to the back of the hood. Works nice for color filters and whatnot, but won't prevent dust getting under it, courtesy of the vents. Have bought a cheap knockoff, but haven't tried it yet, so can't tell if it vignettes or not.
Looks like this: http://tokyocamerastyle.com/post/152788112546/shinjuku-leica-iiicf-with-canon-l-35mm-f2-lens
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
How much does it affect focus? Is it something that would bother someone not shooting test targets? I suddenly regret giving away my NEX to my little brother, at least I could check
As far as the filter/hood goes, there have already been several mentions of Fuji X10/X20 accessories using 40mm threads. The designation for the hood (two part, circular, vented) is LH-JX10. It has a 52mm filter thread that is recessed to the back of the hood. Works nice for color filters and whatnot, but won't prevent dust getting under it, courtesy of the vents. Have bought a cheap knockoff, but haven't tried it yet, so can't tell if it vignettes or not.
Looks like this: http://tokyocamerastyle.com/post/152788112546/shinjuku-leica-iiicf-with-canon-l-35mm-f2-lens
Sure would. I estimate the wobble throws focus off by two, three inches when focused 3 ft away. Just enough to ruin a possible fine shot if the lens is used wide open.
Plus, it's simply annoying to have a 1932 Leica II and a 2003 nickel Heliar that are tight as a drum, and a sloppy feeling 35mm lens to go with them...
Peter Jennings
Well-known
I've never actually traced the exact cause of the "loose" feeling because it's never bothered me too much. I believe I also noticed a wobble in a chrome 35/2.8 that I used to own. And some of the 50/1.8 lenses I've had. I don't think damping with grease would solve the issue. As I recall, the issue isn't the focus helical itself, but the somewhat complex transfer mechanism between the focus helical and the rf flange. I'm sure there is someone around here who knows more about it than I do.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Thanks Peter. I went in since I had some time to spare and while I cannot really say what I did, the lens is back together, the focus is correct and the wobble greatly reduced.
It seems there is a bit of play between the outer and inner part of the helical and I feel some lithium grease might solve the wobble, but for now I'll take the current half a millimeter play.
My Jupiter-12 is on the shelf and the Canon in the bag now, taking it out for a walk tomorrow
cqing
Member
When I choose a lens, size&weight is actually a very important factor. That's why I like this lens and 35mm Summilux pre-asph so much.
mgrinnan
Member
I just purchased this lens on RFF classifieds for $200... It really feels well made, contrary to what I’ve read elsewhere.... I think it will make images, mine has a tiny bit of haze, but otherwise looks okay. It feels like a tiny gem. Tomorrow I’ll be getting an adapter ring from B&H, but I need to get a viewfinder for it to use it on my M3. Otherwise, I’ll just use it on my Bessa-L. Anyway... I hope it wasn’t a waste of money, we’ll see when I get some film back!
ACullen
Well-known
That sounds like a decent deal. Just don't expect much from it wide open. F2.8 is much more acceptable with uniformly good performance across the frame byf4.
Use it on your Bessa before you sink more money into getting a VF for the M3. My copy stays on my Leotax F.
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
the 35 f2 canon is sweeeet !
Compact, well built. inexpensive
I LOVE mine... though in general I prefer a 50 to 35
Miss Canon does the job well ... below on HP5
url=https://flic.kr/p/UUE69X]
[/url]
Light that Blinds ... by Helen Hill, on Flickr
Compact, well built. inexpensive
I LOVE mine... though in general I prefer a 50 to 35
Miss Canon does the job well ... below on HP5
url=https://flic.kr/p/UUE69X]
Light that Blinds ... by Helen Hill, on Flickr