Canon 7 Shutter Question

[Classique]

I just received my "bargain" condition Canon 7 from KEH.

The condition was better in some respects and worse in others. Light meter is operational and seems to be decently calibrated and shutter appeared to fire at relatively accurate timing. Some fungus present in the viewfinder and rangefinder window makes images a little harder to see. As a result, I did a little bit of cleaning to have the rangefinder usable.

However, once I put the light meter back, my shutter was jammed. In panic I tried cocking the winder and moving the self timer and somehow I got the shutter to release.

However, now the shutter does not work well. At all speeds, second shutter closes right after the first one (no space to make exposure) and self timer lever is not operational (just springs back). Also, sometimes the shutter locks (stays down) and I have to play around with the winding lever and timer to make it release.

Does anyone have experience with this? Is it sometime I can fix on my own?

If not, who do you recommend for the fix and CLA for reasonable amount in the US?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Mackinaw]

You've got some pretty serious problems.

You might try Essex Camera Repair (google their website) or Youxin Ye. Both work on Canon rangefinders. Essex will do a repair for about $180.00.

Jim B.

 

[colyn]

When you put it back together did you set the advance-rewind to it's proper location (advance) before setting the knob back in place??

 

[Frontman]

The old Canon rangefinders often suffer from sticky mechanisms caused by dried grease and contaminated oil. Cleaning and lubricating is not difficult. To get to the top mechanism set the ASA to 400, and turn the shutter speed to 1/15. The meter should show the orange f2.8 aligned with the needle. This will expose the three set screws which hold on the shutter speed dial. Back out the screws a couple turns, but don't remove them, they are tiny and easy to lose. Remove the rewind knob by sticking a screwdriver in the rewind for while turning the knob to the left.

Remove the winding lever, and back out the three set screws which hold on the shutter button collar, it will then lift off. Remove the screw on the front to the left of the viewfinder, and there screws on both sides on the body. Then remove the flash socket by using a pin spanner to turn out the center part. Pull out the collar. The top cover can now be lifted off.

You can see the shutter mechanism to the left of the rangefinder mirror, a little lighter fluid will loosen things up, and fine oil applied with a syringe will keep things smooth.

Reassembly is the reverse of the above. Take care that the frame line selector still works after putting the top cover back on, you might need to fiddle with it a bit.

If the shutter is still sticking, there is a disconnect link located under the bottom cover that can stick. Remove the bottom cover by removing the two screws, and use a spanner to remove the nut around the tripod socket. Clean and lube any links or moving parts which don't have wires attached.

Do your work on a white towel so you can spot anything you drop, and don't work near the edge of the bench or table, once things hit the floor they can bounce surprising distances.

 

[Classique]

The old Canon rangefinders often suffer from sticky mechanisms caused by dried grease and contaminated oil. Cleaning and lubricating is not difficult. To get to the top mechanism set the ASA to 400, and turn the shutter speed to 1/15. The meter should show the orange f2.8 aligned with the needle. This will expose the three set screws which hold on the shutter speed dial. Back out the screws a couple turns, but don't remove them, they are tiny and easy to lose. Remove the rewind knob by sticking a screwdriver in the rewind for while turning the knob to the left.

Remove the winding lever, and back out the three set screws which hold on the shutter button collar, it will then lift off. Remove the screw on the front to the left of the viewfinder, and there screws on both sides on the body. Then remove the flash socket by using a pin spanner to turn out the center part. Pull out the collar. The top cover can now be lifted off.

You can see the shutter mechanism to the left of the rangefinder mirror, a little lighter fluid will loosen things up, and fine oil applied with a syringe will keep things smooth.

Reassembly is the reverse of the above. Take care that the frame line selector still works after putting the top cover back on, you might need to fiddle with it a bit.

If the shutter is still sticking, there is a disconnect link located under the bottom cover that can stick. Remove the bottom cover by removing the two screws, and use a spanner to remove the nut around the tripod socket. Clean and lube any links or moving parts which don't have wires attached.

Do your work on a white towel so you can spot anything you drop, and don't work near the edge of the bench or table, once things hit the floor they can bounce surprising distances.

Thank you for all your replies.

I don't think that the problem is as serious as it seems. More along the lines of a spring that came loose or some sort (I hear something loose when i flip the camera). When I cleaned the fungus, I did not open it up but rather screwed off the eye piece and cleaned and under the light meter mechanism. That is why I am a bit shocked that the self timer/shutter button presented a problem after. I was hoping someone had a similar issue and found a DIY solution.

I think I will talk with KEH to see if they have replacement and if not, decide whether to send it back for a refund or fix it. If my schedule opens up in a week or two I may look at it myself or decide to send it in somewhere if I am too caught up with work.

 

[Farkle-Mpls]

Replying to a suggestion made a bit earlier, I just received my Canon P and 7s back from Essex. They did a great job with both cameras (shutter mechanism was jammed on the 7s). I ran them through their paces today: all the way from 1s-1/1000s and the speeds are "on". I also had Essex make the modification to the 7s light meter to accept the newer 1.55v silver-oxide or alkaline batteries, which they did. I tested the meter with a gray card and a hand held meter and it is surprisingly accurate. I'm very pleased and would recommend them for your Canon 7, if you decide not to service it yourself.

 

[Red Robin]

😱 And man, he's not kidding ! Some weeks ago I decided to "FIX" a lens. After removing three tiny screws I realized my approach was in error, one after another the little screws (and I mean really tiny)shot "away to parts unknown. With a flash light I did find one, a 33,1/3% success rate! The Exacta lens remains only in parts condition now. :bang:

 

[tonal1]

The camera probably needed an overhaul anyways. Hopefully you didn't pay more than $100 for it, and with a $200~ overhaul, you should have a pretty nice camera.

Cheers

 

[Classique]

Since the CLA + repair was a bit more than what I was looking to spend, I ended up returning it.

However, now I have a fully working and mint Canon P and user Canon 7 with wonky meter (got it for less than KEH one surprisingly).

I am currently in the process of calibrating to RF as infinity was a bit off for both. I used DSLR to compare the distance and it is very close. However, I think i will use wax paper over film gate method to get it perfect as I want them to be pretty accurate for 85mm f/2.

Thank you all for your comments! I think I'm almost at the end of my RF GAS. Almost...

 

[Landshark]

😱 And man, he's not kidding ! Some weeks ago I decided to "FIX" a lens. After removing three tiny screws I realized my approach was in error, one after another the little screws (and I mean really tiny)shot "away to parts unknown. With a flash light I did find one, a 33,1/3% success rate! The Exacta lens remains only in parts condition now. :bang:

Sweep your work area with a magnet. Either one used for a garage/workshop or a strong magnet attached to a steel rule.