I think this should use the P625 mercury, right? There are a couple of ways to go - use a modern alkaline equivalent (P625A, LR9, etc) and reset your asa dial by one stop so that you would set 200asa for a 400asa film. This works, but the alkaline batteries lose their voltage fairly quickly, so the meter will be off in a couple of weeks.
You could have a shottky diode fitted behind the battery compartment and use a modern SR44 with an O-ring. This should give the correct meter reading and silver-oxide batteries do hold their voltage well over time.
Alternatively, you could use a battery adapter that allows the use of the SR44 - there are many of these available from the Cris one at $29.99 to the one I sell to RFF members at £7.50. I think you need to be careful here - the current draw on old canonets can vary dramatically from 20uA to as much as 40mA. The Cris adapter will only handle a maximum of 200uA, which is not enough for most Canonets, it is also around 0.015" too thick for some cameras.
[Start blatant plug] My adapter is capable of carrying 200mA continuous, so is plenty strong enough for any Canonet and all those old light-meters from the 1970's that draw 100 to 150mA. It is also the right thickness (or sometimes 0.005" thicker) so there is no problem with physical size. Finally, it will light the battery test button on a GIII QL17, and not many types will do that. [end blatant plug]
Of course, if the camera needs the PX1a battery (but I think that's only the QL19E and S), you have the same options, but with more problems from the Cris adapter due to current drain. I do one of these too, but they are £10.
Hope that helps.
Regards
John