Central Asia

Mister E

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I leave for Central Asia on Friday. What a visa nightmare I'm having. I specifically am planning to visit Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. Who's been there and what should I know/watch out for while I'm there. Any thing photographically specific to be careful of? I'm coming in with 100 rolls of film. Should I expect any issues at customs/police/etc?
 
I've never been to Kazakhstan or Uzbekistan but I've travelled quite a lot in various FSU countries over the years. My next destination will be Moldova in Oct. I've had a lot of fun everywhere and never felt threatened except once when the police grabbed me in their car and demanded a lot of money to get out (luckily some head police happened to arrive on the spot and I was allowed to escape). Some basic rules to remember: a) people are really really friendly and helpful. Sometimes to the level of irritation, b) police is not your guardian, in general try to avoid contact with them.

If you'll head to the suburbia or country areas to take photos I would hire a local driver for a day or two who can show you around and negotiate with the locals. You'll be amazed what you will find behind closed doors.

Have a great trip and take a lot of photos!
 
I never made it west of the Torugart Pass. But if I ever do, I'd want to check out the architecture of Bukhara and Samarkand. Read some Colin Thubron books: The Lost Heart of Asia, and Shadow of the Silk Road. Hope you like eating *all* parts of sheep, and say hi to Borat for me.

P.S. I look forward to your "what lens should I bring for the steppes" thread.
 
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P.S. I look forward to your "what lens should I bring for the steppes" thread.

I won't be making one of those threads... :D

Right now I'm reading Chasing the Sea: Lost Among the Ghosts of Empire in Central Asia by Tom Bissell. He is a superb writer.
 
Biggest challenge in central asia is transport. if you're got it all organised, then great, but if not, try to sort something out before you go. when i went to kazakhstan, tajikistan and kyrgyzstan it was difficult to move from place to place. some of these countries are quite lawless, and there's a lot of police corruption.

photographically, you're going somewhere well off the beaten track, so i hope (and expect) you'll find it a very rich experience. looking forward to seeing your photos when you're back.
 
Sounds like a real adventure! Looking forward to your pictures Nate. Central Asia is one of the white spots on my travel map at the moment so I've got nothing to share. Shame.

Cheers,
 
I've been to both countries. FSU airport scanners can be film hazardous, but you may also be refused hand inspection. Roll with it. Don't say you're a journalist or photographer, even if you are. Teacher is a good, safe, unsuspicious profession. A huge mine of beautiful photos await you.

Marty
 
ha! i have been to pakistan, bangladesh, sri lanka many times in the past 3 months...work of course, and i always tell myself I need to go to Kabul, Dushanbe and one or two other beautiful states....
 
Try to avoid policemen in uniform, especially in Tashkent. They may grab you especially in the metro and search you in a back room. They will be particularly interested in your wallet/money, looking carefully at receipts etc. It's a trick to make you pay to them a bribe. Don't accept it and if things get nasty keep the phone number of your embassy at hand and pick up the phone and tell them you are calling your ambassador, which should make them stop. Most important, don't put locals at risk by talking about the regime in public places or even mentioning politics at all unless you are sure noone is listening. Getting someone into trouble can be caused by pure inattention or lack of knowledge about the notorius authorities. The consequences for locals may be arrest, torture or worse. Uzbekistan is quite possibly the roguest regime in the world, where political prisoners have been boiled alive in prisons. My travel experiences are from six years back, but I keep myself informed and things have not changed for the better. For an insight into the horrors of Uzbekistan, watch the excellent on location documentary "Uzbekistan - The West's torture farm" with the shocking accounts of former UK ambassador to Uzbekistan Craig Murray, who was sacked by the UK government for his revelations about torture and murder by the Uzbek authorities. In spite of all the horrors, Uzbeks are genuinely warm and hospitable people who will do their best to make you feel happy during your visit. The silk road cities Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva are some of the most astonishing places I have ever seen.

Possibly Uzbek police corruption has decreased after it was clamped down upon by the authorities. In Kazakhstan, abuse by the authorities also exist but is less apparent to the visitor. Most important here is to steer clear of organized crime and prostitution. If you stay in hotels don't be surprised to get calls to your room from women down in the lobby who will want to come to your room. These women are controlled by organized crime syndicates also dealing with drugs and various other types of trafficking.

In terms of travel safety Uzbekistan is a quite safe place, more so than Kazakhstan, where there is considerably more organized crime. Compared to a Western country I would still rate Kazakhstan as a safe place. Kyrgyzstan, if you go there, is more rural in general, with many very remote and extremely beautiful places. Roads are often poor and treacherous, ascending and descending the lofty mountains covering the entire country. Police corruption is also rife and poverty and alcoholism is often striking. At the time of my visit, only Bishkek and Karakol were considered unsafe at night. Osh was a very pleasant city where I strolled around late at night. I am shocked to see what has happened since.


I'll see if I can post some photos from my visit.
 
I'm sitting in the Manas airport in Bishkek having completed the Kyrgyz and Kazakh portions of my trip. I fly to taskent in an hour.
 
May you have a blessed and safe journey!

These are a few of my photos from my visit, all taken on a Nikon coolpix 5700.

Kyrgyzstan, also known as the Pearl of Central Asia:

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Uzbekistan:

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Aral Sea Disaster, Uzbekistan:

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The photos look like you had a great trip though Central Asia. What were your experiences traveling though your destinations? Any high-points or low-points throughout your trip?
 
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