Changing Iso

[MPerson]

If I am shooting Tri-X I change asa on the same roll, 400-1250, I always develop those rolls in Diafine. 😉

 

[ZeissFan]

I used to do that (change film mid-roll) more often but not as much lately. Maybe once in the past year or so. Sometimes, I would pull it from one camera to finish it in another camera.

 

[ZeissFan]

Regarding E-6, what I shot in the late 1970s and early 1980s seems fine. Can't say the same for those wonderful muted Agfachrome tones, which are rapidly becoming a garish sepia/magenta.

 

[Steve Karr]

I guess I do it the hard way... mark on the can when i changed & to what and then clip it where the change is & run 'em different. It works pretty well. I only have 1 body.

 

[kkr2k2]

I use two bodies, one a canonet with iso 125 and slr with color film with iso 400. The slr, a friend of mine lent it to me. I will be giving it back to him soon after that I will be left with the below mentioned option:

I guess I do it the hard way... mark on the can when i changed & to what and then clip it where the change is & run 'em different. It works pretty well. I only have 1 body.

Sounds good. I shall try this.

I heard about pushing ISO!! Just waiting to lay my hands on a developing tank!(buying in the place I live - Hyderabad, India, is near to impossible!!!). After that I shall try developing myself and pushing too!

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

I shoot a roll on sunlight entirely and develop it for that contrast. If during the same shooting I need to shoot in the shadows, I use another roll in other body, and develop it for that contrast.
To be able to shoot a shadows roll also on an overcast day, I've settled on an identical development time for both soft light situations, and just change exposure metering ISO.

Cheers,

Juan

 

[sevo]

I might change backs for different ISO...

 

[Harold Gough]

I might change backs for different ISO...

The ultimate flexibility for film users, sadly not for 35mm.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

The ultimate flexibility for film users, sadly not for 35mm.

I disagree. And I have used a Hassy with two backs for 12 years...

The best option is using two bodies... Not only for security (just one body can give any trouble and it's the end) but for a more comfortable work: when in a session, if I am doing portraiture, rather than changing backs I prefer having two cameras (both with lenses) loaded one with B&W and the other one with color... That way you change nothing; you just shoot. For me it's just fine, but for the model it can be decisive for her/his concentration, and one more reason for the session to be successful... Not that I haven't done it with just one body, but one body implies unnecessary delays... Sometimes even using one film only I prefer two bodies loaded so I can have all the time two visions without changing lenses...

Cheers,

Juan

 

[Ronald M]

I load a mix of long and short exposures when I load the cassettes from 100 foot rolls.

5 % 12 exp 80% 24 exp 15 % 36 exp

I pick what I want for the day or what I expect to use. I carry extra.

I also load 400 speed film 80% 24 exp, balance 36.


My bench in the darkroom is marked off in exposures so I can cut off what I want and process a partial roll.

I also can put a sticker over the a blank frame following the last exposure, in the dark of course. This makes it easy to find in the dark.

I don`t flip from high speed to low often as 90 per cent of my work is 100 ISO.

There is no cost disadvantage when you work off 100 foot rolls.

For picture vacations I always have multiple cameras.

For digitail I just turn the dial, no issues!

 

[DNG]

I have one RF, so It may have 100 or 400 in it. I shoot through roll. BUT, If I load XP2, I can use ISO 200-640 on the same roll.

 

[ruben]

In a retrospective, I think had I adapted all my film shooting to the single ISO 400 - as other photographers have, I had saved a lot of money in camera bodies, and time in film processing.

- A good point for the day I restart shooting with film.(*)


Cheers,
Ruben

(*) "La esperanza es lo ultimo que se pierde. Lo dijo una tia mia y se murio"

 

[Vics]

I'm going to France for five weeks in the fall, and I'm going to solve this by loading my M3 with FP4+ and my Contax IIIa with Arista Premium 400. The Contax also affords me a wide lens. On shorter trips, I've been shooting Arista Premium 400 and just the M3 with the collapsable 'cron.
Vic

 

[B.J.Scharp]

I shoot Neopan 400, and shoot it at either 320 or 650, depending on circumstances (the whole roll at the same iso, though). It's amazing how much difference that 1 stop can make...

I then change development to match the iso (Rodinal and Diafine, respectively).

That covers most situations for me, but I'm still experimenting with developers 🙂

 

[flip]

I plan ahead. If I can, the M3 is loaded for pushed HP5 and the other body is something else. If forced down to one body in a situation where darkness is not the main environment, I appreciate the Hexar RF for mid-roll changing.

 

[braver]

I've standardized my shooting to 90% trix, which I shoot in daylight at iso 200, or iso 1600 when it's darker. In the winter I sometimes go for 400 as it's more flexible, same if I expect a lot of indoor-outdoor switching. Sometimes this means switching halfway through a roll, like when I start with some velvia but don't finish it in time. But that's 4 times a year. The solution is actually to shoot more and finish the roll in a given situation. I also like to stick to a type of film or speed for an event, so everything looks like it belongs together.

 

[Mark D.]

I process with diafine which gives the flexibility to change shutter speed and aperture devoid of iso on the same roll film (within some reason).

 

[bizarrius]

i have this simple plan that i started a few weeks ago and i don't know if i can carry on doing it.
I have with me:
100iso fuji superia
400iso fuji superia or kodak portra
400iso tmax
1600iso neopan

and change film depending on the time i want to shoot. i use a film picker to reload my films, a notebook and a pencil. i always end up with 4 films ready to process at the same time.

 

[tonyjuliano]

If I am shooting Tri-X I change asa on the same roll, 400-1250, I always develop those rolls in Diafine. 😉

Same with me (even will go to ISO1600). Shoot mostly street stuff so IQ is relative, if you know what I mean...

 

[Deniz Merdan]

If you dont have the option of carrying 2 bodies loaded with 2 different speed films, shoot 24 exp rolls.
Easier to get through than the 36exp crap. I load my own 24exp canisters from a bulk reel. can't stand 36 exposures on 1 roll!