I’ve sold all my color film stock and am going 100% b&w.
Have some rolls of XP2, but other than that everything is Arista 100 and 400 ( always frozen, expiration 2011, assuming these are PlusX and TriX), TriX, and some bulk Tmax.
Looking for suggestions as to which chemistry would be best for these...
I have much development experience with D76 but haven’t developed b&w in some years, only C41.
Looking for economical and long lasting:
Suggestions wanted. (I’ve read the monobath thread.)
Thanks in advance!
Have some rolls of XP2, but other than that everything is Arista 100 and 400 ( always frozen, expiration 2011, assuming these are PlusX and TriX), TriX, and some bulk Tmax.
Looking for suggestions as to which chemistry would be best for these...
I have much development experience with D76 but haven’t developed b&w in some years, only C41.
Looking for economical and long lasting:
Suggestions wanted. (I’ve read the monobath thread.)
Thanks in advance!
Freakscene
Obscure member
The monobath is not flexible in terms of varying tonality, pushing or pulling. If you like the look, it’s a viable option, but otherwise D-76/ID-11, or if you want a liquid developer, HC110/IlfotecHC or TMax/DDX. The liquid developers are longer lasting. Get some rapid (ammonium thiosulfate) fixer, and you’re set.
One other thing - the Ilford simplicity range is only moderately economical, but it is extremely convenient, and the individual sachets to develop and fix 2 rolls of 135 film mean your other chemistry isn’t open and degrading, so it should last well.
Marty
One other thing - the Ilford simplicity range is only moderately economical, but it is extremely convenient, and the individual sachets to develop and fix 2 rolls of 135 film mean your other chemistry isn’t open and degrading, so it should last well.
Marty
D
Deleted member 65559
Guest
Splitimage, I've used PMK and now Pyrocat HD for almost 20 years. A 50litre/ 13.2 gal kit (2 part/liquid) costs $36. It's easy to use, economical and the results are very good. You use a water stop bath and then fixer. The negatives are sharp and i particularly like the ease with which highlights like clouds or sunlit snow print. I think it's worth a try
Thanks Marty, I will check out Ilford simplicity.
@Deardorff38, how many rolls of 135 can you get out of a 50 litre kit?
@Deardorff38, how many rolls of 135 can you get out of a 50 litre kit?
D
Deleted member 65559
Guest
100 +.... I usually prep 500ml.... 5ml part A 5 mil part B.... + 500ml water...there's always a little left if/when i'm using a single tank
Freakscene
Obscure member
Complexity of staining developers
Complexity of staining developers
You can develop a roll per 250mL of PMK, so 200 rolls from a 50L kit, but PMK requires good water for dilution, ageing before use and careful agitation for good results and if the stock is dissolved in water dies quickly once it dies. I don’t recommend PMK or Xtol for ‘easy’ development because there are learning curves even though results are excellent.
Marty
Complexity of staining developers
You can develop a roll per 250mL of PMK, so 200 rolls from a 50L kit, but PMK requires good water for dilution, ageing before use and careful agitation for good results and if the stock is dissolved in water dies quickly once it dies. I don’t recommend PMK or Xtol for ‘easy’ development because there are learning curves even though results are excellent.
Marty
CharlesDAMorgan
Veteran
Interesting - could you expand on that - I'm on the point of opening a new bottle and so long ago did I last do so I wonder if there is something I need to do. Thanks Marty!
RObert Budding
D'oh!
I used D76 for a number of years, but I've switched over to 1:2 XTOL. It gives a bit more film speed, it's toxicity is low, and the results are excellent.
D
Deleted member 65559
Guest
Marty, I always mix 5ml + 5ml + 500 ml of Pyrocat. I find 2.5 ml to finicky to measure accurately without resorting to some kind of syringe. Either way it's an economical developer.
webOSUser
Well-known
Check the Arista boxes for where they were made. Current Arista films, Arista EDU 100, 200, and 400, are Foma Bohemia films made in the Czech Republic.
I develop them in HC110 Dilution B and H as per the Massive Dev Chart Android application at half box speed. I have used R09, one of the Rodinal clones, with good results at box speed.
I hope that helps.
Steve W
jbielikowski
Jan Bielikowski
economical and long lasting- I suggest one shot type developer, concentrate have long shelf life and you'll get consistent results even if you don't develop often. I'm very happy with FX39 mixed 1+19, paired with Jobo 1510 tank it's a solid, cheap option.
"Made in USA, packaged in Mexico"
D
Deleted member 65559
Guest
my recent stock of Arista 120 'made in the Czech republic'
Freakscene
Obscure member
For best results with PMK you should maximise the stain to silver ratio. To do this Gordon Hutchings recommended mixing the developer an hour before use, developing with agitation every 15s, then re-immersing/soaking the developed film in used/oxidised developer. In my tests these were necessary to get the best out of it.
It's hassle, and different to other developers. But I also did not find that the concentrates, if they were mixed in water, were as long lived as Hutchings stated. 1-1.5 years was the maximum (Hutchings said it lasted 10 years), then I had problems.
When I worked in the lab we offered pyro development in PMK, and a lot of people were interested, but essentially 2 guys only ever used it. It cost more than the usual developer, mainly because it was a lot more hassle.
Sure, understood. Pyrocat is a lot closer to a 'normal' developer than PMK, but I also found that the stock solution in water did not last as long as it was stated it would.
Marty
CharlesDAMorgan
Veteran
Thanks Marty - I normally mix it with water about 20minutes before use, but an hour is no problem at the moment. Ditto I do the agitations every 15 minutes. The jury is out on the re-immersion here, but as I am about to change rolls in the camera, I might try one re-immersed, one not to see if there's a difference I can perceive.
I recently persuaded a friend, who is an Ilford Artisan partner, to try PMK and he loves the results. For home developing, it's not such an additional faff to be a problem and well worth it!
I recently persuaded a friend, who is an Ilford Artisan partner, to try PMK and he loves the results. For home developing, it's not such an additional faff to be a problem and well worth it!
D
Deleted member 65559
Guest
Marty, I recall that about 10 years ago, it was said that Gordon H no longer used the developer afterbath.
PMK was the first staining developer i used and i found my printing improved and getting detail in highlight areas became a breeze. I liked the results very much but the general stain was very high and printing times with a cold light head were very long. When Pyrocat came out (initially in water) I was processing a lot and i used up a 50 litre kit in less than a year. Since the formula in glycol came out, I haven't had any issues with the developer concentrate lasting more than a year. In any case, both PMK & Pyrocat are extremely economical one-shot developers.
Freakscene
Obscure member
In my tests it made a positive difference to the stain with PMK. But you also need to be very careful with fixing and washing. Acid fixer really decreases the stain.
The glycol version lasts a very long time.
They are fairly economical. I’d argue both have complexities that make them difficult to use at first, even for experienced users.
Marty
Huss
Veteran
Just developed a roll of Eastman 5234 in DF96. It turned the developer green!! Brand new batch too, hope it is not ruined.
Also only got 33 exposures on what was meant to be a 36exp roll!
FYI came out great - 4 minutes @75.
Also only got 33 exposures on what was meant to be a 36exp roll!
FYI came out great - 4 minutes @75.