Coding lenses

[chrismoret]

Finally I got my M9 last Friday. But my three lenses, a 35mm Biogon, an older 50mm Cron, and a 28mm Elmarit, are not 6-bit coded of course.
Does anyone have experience with coding lenses. I understand there are sets for sale to do it yourself. So tip and tricks or do's and don'ts anyone?

Regards

 

[kbg32]

No need to code these lenses for the M9. That is one of the things it has going for it over the M8/2. Go to the camera menu and you can select the appropriate lens, corresponding to Leitz lenses of course, manually. I use coded and non-coded lenses on my M9. The manual setup works more then fine.

 

[seakayaker1]

I have used the Coder Kit from Match Technical.

http://matchtechnical.com/coderkit.aspx

With the M9 you can use the menu which is great.

. . . . . however my personal preference is to leave the M9 on Autodetect and code the lens. It is one less thing I have to think about when changing lens.

Either way it works, just personal preference.

Congratulations on the M9!

 

[rickp]

chris,
here's a starting point to find the official list of lenses which can be physically coded (6 grooves in the lens flange, with combinations of white and black paint to provide the 6-bit code). older lenses for which a code exists can be coded by leica, or sometimes by 3rd party camera technicians. http://us.leica-camera.com/service/service_m_system/6bit_code/

the flanges of other lenses can be engraved (3rd party), then coded using the code from a leica lens similiar to yours.

ltm lenses can sometimes be coded by using a particular ltm/m adapter, such as the voigtlaender type 2 or those from john milich.

search (!) here and ye shall find the appropriate links and threads.

good luck

rick

 

[250swb]

I have successfully coded lenses for the M9 with either a Dremel or by using the recently avaialable replacement flanges. The Chinses flanges do work very well if you make sure the holes in the flange will match the mounting holes in your lens. At something like $35 for the main three they are a bargain and focus is perfect on my lenses.

The Coder kit is an idea, but the M9 tends to need a denser black than many permanent markers can give, and of course they wear off fairly quickly. Which leaves the Dremel as the final DIY option. Use Bo's instructions for making a coder template

http://bophoto.typepad.com/bophoto/2009/01/m8-coder-simple-manual-handcoding-of-m-lenses.html

to get the initial marks to work. And then engrave the marks with a light touch of a Dremel with a grinding bit.

Then there are the independant people who will machine the mount of your lens, for a hefty price, but still much less than Leica charge to just throw away your old flange and screw on a new one.

Personally I would at least try the Chinese adapters first. If they don't work you can at least join in the bitching about China and 'wouldn't trust them', but on the other hand you might be delighted.

Steve

 

[kbg32]

No need to spend money if you manually select the lens from the menu!

 

[chrismoret]

The menu to set a lens type manual workes just fine. But going out yesterday evening for a little walk and testing I forgot to to adjust the settings when a lens was switched. And so I wondered if coding older lenses is worth it.

 

[rickp]

IMHO, hard coding lenses is worth doing if you have more than one uncoded lens, and change frequently. forgetting to change settings is easy, and getting easier! 🙂)

 

[Reddot9]

Enter manually

Enter manually

I have a number of lenses that aren't coded. For me its no big deal to enter the lens number manually. Takes about 5 seconds but you do have to know the code. I keep that on a small card in my case. But then again on the lenses that are coded, its nice, fast and out of mind. Its a coin toss.

RD9

 

[rodl]

I have successfully coded lenses for the M9 with either a Dremel or by using the recently avaialable replacement flanges. The Chinses flanges do work very well if you make sure the holes in the flange will match the mounting holes in your lens. At something like $35 for the main three they are a bargain and focus is perfect on my lenses.

The Coder kit is an idea, but the M9 tends to need a denser black than many permanent markers can give, and of course they wear off fairly quickly. Which leaves the Dremel as the final DIY option. Use Bo's instructions for making a coder template

http://bophoto.typepad.com/bophoto/2009/01/m8-coder-simple-manual-handcoding-of-m-lenses.html

to get the initial marks to work. And then engrave the marks with a light touch of a Dremel with a grinding bit.

Then there are the independant people who will machine the mount of your lens, for a hefty price, but still much less than Leica charge to just throw away your old flange and screw on a new one.

Personally I would at least try the Chinese adapters first. If they don't work you can at least join in the bitching about China and 'wouldn't trust them', but on the other hand you might be delighted.

Steve

Which brand or seller did you buy? Thanks.

 

[250swb]

You mean the adapters, I got mine from Ebay seller jinfinance.

You need a size '00' screwdriver for the screws. Tighten the new flange down very carefully and slowly to ensure it is centred or you can make the focus ring stiff. Also depending on the original flange you can use matt black paint on the inner face, some lenses have it painted, some don't.

Steve

 

[LCT]

Those adapters don't work with the Summilux-M 50/1.4 asph and some legacy lenses. See http://tinyurl.com/6yuhsgd.

 

[noimmunity]

I'm trying to find a replacement flange with 6 bit pits for my ZM 50/1.5, which has only four screw holes. Does anyone have a link to a reliable seller of such flanges?

 

[Phil_F_NM]

You could send in your original flange to John Milich who can machine the 6-bit grooves in for you. He does amazing work. I got my ZM 21mm f/2.8 6-bit flange from him and it was outstanding.

Looking back at his old sheet of services he provides, the custom coding for him to mill your flange was $50USD as of October 2010.
Some ZM lenses will have screw holes right at the area where the code recess will be but you would cover this up with flat white or black paint so the screw recess won't matter. Only the screw will be covered with a dab of paint.

Phil Forrest

 

[250swb]

First check the screw holes aren't going to interfere with the coding area, but I would contact a Zeiss Service centre. The most recent lenses have a groove machined into the mount that takes coding marks just like the latest CV lenses (they are made in the same factory after all), and it may be a simple swap to have the flange changed over. My 21mm f/2.8 came with the groove machined in.

Steve

 

[noimmunity]

You could send in your original flange to John Milich who can machine the 6-bit grooves in for you. He does amazing work. I got my ZM 21mm f/2.8 6-bit flange from him and it was outstanding.

Phil Forrest

Thanks Phil and Steve!

I've had Milich do that for me on other lenses. But since I'm in Europe, I was looking for another solution. There is a place in the Netherlands that does high quality coding, but they require sending the whole lens, and the service is a bit pricey. It would be easier and cheaper to send the flange to Milich. However, I would prefer to find an Asian source, like jinfinance, that offers a new flange.

My ZM C Sonnar is an older version without the recessed area on the flange, and in any case I don't have a coder kit for making marks, so I would prefer a flange that has pits milled into them.

 

[Tom Niblick]

I'm trying to find a replacement flange with 6 bit pits for my ZM 50/1.5, which has only four screw holes. Does anyone have a link to a reliable seller of such flanges?

I'll have to look but I'm certain I have a Zeiss 50 mm flange in a drawer. It came off my 21 Biogon. Not coded but that is easy to fix. PM me if you're interested.

printmaker@hawaiilink.net

 

[brbo]

I was told (by Zeiss, Oberkochen) that you can't just change old ZM lens flange with a new 'grooved' one. Well, at least Zeiss doesn't offer that service.

You will have to have your existing flange modified. Fortunately, you only need one pit for coding C Sonnar as Summilux 50/1.4.

 

[Jim Evidon]

For my first lens, I went to John Milich and I agree that he does excellent work. But, subsequently, I used the Match Technical coding kit:
( http://matchtechnical.com/coderkit.aspx) on all my other lenses using the special pen that is enclosed.

I have heard that over a period of time the inked coding wears off and must be redone, but in my case, I have never had to re-do any of the hand coded lenses over a period of more than two years.

 

[Phil_F_NM]

I was told (by Zeiss, Oberkochen) that you can't just change old ZM lens flange with a new 'grooved' one. Well, at least Zeiss doesn't offer that service.

Back when I had my early ZM 21mm f/2.8 and wanted the lens coded, Zeiss was selling replacement flanges directly to the public. I ended up getting mine from Milich as the cost of buying directly from Zeiss then sending it to Milich for 6-bit milling was greater than just buying the new flange from him.

Phil Forrest