Color Tint in TRI-X by accident?

[Moogie77]

Dear forum friends,

I am seeking for help from you.

Just recently I got two of my pictures deleted from a B&W group on flickr as one of the moderators claimed them to be color tinted.

However I did not color tint anything. It was pure TRI-X developed in HC-110 and also in Lightroom I did not add any color or something...

Don't know how exactly this happened as I am still a beginner in film but I did not modify it in any way...

Just added a bit of contrast...

Also in Silverfast I selected TRI-X as scanned film and scanned with Plustek 8200i.

Anyway I like the results but also I am wondering what do you think? Do they really look color tinted or is just the special tri-x look?

As I am still kind of new to film I am absolutely clueless how to interpret this.

I hope maybe you have some comments which can help me to understand?

Thanks to all of you, Miguel

And here the two concerned images:

[/url]Exhaust_Reflection_1 by Miguel Buschhauer, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]Simon_after_D3_7 by Miguel Buschhauer, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

[mpaniagua]

ummm Same thing happens to me when I left the defaults setting on. Just reduce the saturation parameter to 0 and you will get more pure black and white. Yeah, I suppose it could count as Color Tint, done unaware but still tint. I

 

[mpaniagua]

Here some "tint" from Kentmere 400, when I was new to Silverfast:

Kinda yellowish I suppose.

 

[sevo]

All black and white films contain dyes - most notably sensitizers, anti-lightpiping and anti-halation dyes. Not all of them will wash out in the processing - negatives usually will have a blue, green or pink stain. If you colour print or scan them, that will show up in the final result...

 

[Moogie77]

Hi mpaniagua and sevo,

Thanks for the hints. This makes sense. I take care of it for my next scans.

Thanks and best regards, Miguel

 

[ChrisPlatt]

I'm not surprised - all my Tri-X comes out purple or pink! :bang:

Chris

 

[p.giannakis]

I think it is more of a scanning issue than developing. If you scanned it as RGB jpg and you adjusted the levels you could end up with a colour hue. This happens if you adjusted any of the 'Red', 'Green' or 'Blue' channels on the image editing programme.

 

[BLKRCAT]

As posted above. This is what happens when you scan RGB.

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

You forum moderator is a miserable pedant, by the way.

 

[mpaniagua]

I think it is more of a scanning issue than developing. If you scanned it as RGB jpg and you adjusted the levels you could end up with a colour hue. This happens if you adjusted any of the 'Red', 'Green' or 'Blue' channels on the image editing programme.

Agree. Scanning issue. Would go further and say its a scanning software issue. Anyway, sometimes I get pleasant result from this, especially on Ilford Delta 100 🙂.


Regards.

Marcelo

 

[Steve M.]

If it ain't purple, it ain't Tri-X.

Washing the film longer will usually resolve this, but some batches of film are more "colorful" than others. If you're scanning, simply convert to grey scale when you save (or scan at that setting to begin with, which I what I think should be done w/ any B&W film).

 

[mpaniagua]

If it ain't purple, it ain't Tri-X.

Washing the film longer will usually resolve this, but some batches of film are more "colorful" than others. If you're scanning, simply convert to grey scale when you save (or scan at that setting to begin with, which I what I think should be done w/ any B&W film).

Agree. If your scanning software has a hue saturation setting, lower its value. It may help.

Regards.

Marcelo

 

[Scapevision]

I don't understand your confusion. Is black and white supposed to be represented as anything else but shades of grey? If using Lr click on the "Black and White" or V for shortcut.

 

[Timmyjoe]

Yeah, I've found that if I scan in RGB, doesn't matter how B&W the negative is, the scanner will pick up some color cast. Simple solution is to scan in greyscale, or just convert your image to B&W in post processing after scanning.

 

[mpaniagua]

I don't understand your confusion. Is black and white supposed to be represented as anything else but shades of grey? If using Lr click on the "Black and White" or V for shortcut.

Thanks for the info scapevision. His issue seems to be with the SilverFast scanning though.


Regards.

Marcelo

 

[BLKRCAT]

If scanning in silver fast you can scan as a bw negative. When I was scanning with silver fast I did make a point to desaturate the image afterwards to make sure I ended up with a perfectly black and white image with no tint.

 

[kb244]

Whenever I see physical color in Kodak film, particularly towards blue or purple, it says to me it needs to stay in the Fixer a little longer.

However if it's only in scanning, I get that sometimes if I scan it as a color film, and the software attempts to white balance correct for it among other filters (naturally silver halide negs don't reflect back or shine thru the same way as color negatives). But I usually make sure I scan the negs as black and white then add whatever toning I want afterwards.

I'm not surprised - all my Tri-X comes out purple or pink! :bang:

Chris

If you can see it in person as a faint pink/purple, needs to stay in the fixer a little longer (it's by design).

Since Pink and Purple are the two common colors the negs stay with their designed fixers until it's completely fixed.

 

[sevo]

If you can see it in person as a faint pink/purple, needs to stay in the fixer a little longer (it's by design).

Don't overfix it! T-Max doubtlessly needs longer fixing, but that will not remove the stain, it comes out very pink even after that. Kodak's own recommendation is to extend washing and in desperate cases to use hypo clearer. The same presumably goes for "new" Tri-X (which going by the change in stain seems to share the T-Max sensitizer).

 

[p.giannakis]

Don't overfix it!

I've never heard of overfixing a negative. I leave my developed films way past the recommended fixing time and never had any Issues. What happens during overfixing?

 

[sevo]

I've never heard of overfixing a negative. I leave my developed films way past the recommended fixing time and never had any Issues. What happens during overfixing?

Overfixing will always become evident in the thinnest part of a print or negative. It being a negative, it does the inverse of what overfixing a print does - it eats out the shadow detail. And I've seen it happen to film, when screwing up times and concentrations (mixing 1:4 and applying the 1:9 time).