Ryan1938
Established
Check out the attached image. Over exposure like that when using a-priority seems to be the norm on my M8 no matter the lens... It's fixed easily enough in pp, but I was hoping for some advice. Is this something I'm doing?
This is using aperture priority and auto white balance. I do use a uv/ir cut filter (on some lenses I use the Leica filter, on others the B+W).
Suggestions?
This is using aperture priority and auto white balance. I do use a uv/ir cut filter (on some lenses I use the Leica filter, on others the B+W).
Suggestions?
Attachments
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
M8's by default overexpose a third of a stop, but this is more like three full stops. You should have it looked at. If the camera is a recent purchase from a reputable dealer, it should easily be covered by warranty.
Are your lenses clean? no internal hazing? That might throw the meter off!
Maybe try shooting in B&W without the darn UVIR filters and with different ISOs?
Are your lenses clean? no internal hazing? That might throw the meter off!
Maybe try shooting in B&W without the darn UVIR filters and with different ISOs?
Ron (Netherlands)
Well-known
Auto white balance seems to overcompensate, this is so with my M8.2 and with a Canon slr I have. But I don't mind since my M8.2 is mostly fixed on iso 160
MCTuomey
Veteran
not trying to be a smart-a$$, but you might check whether exposure compensation is set to + a couple stops. if not, i'd sent it in, as johan suggests.
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
also try reloading the firmware. If you have 2.04, then reload it & update to 2.05 after.
Phil Forrest
Phil Forrest
Ryan1938
Established
Thanks guys... I recently ran into a rash of vintage Leica glass from the 50's. I realized that I don't think I've used any modern glass since I've noticed the over exposure.
So, I put my 35mm Nokton (like the vintage glass, it's not 6-bit coded) on the camera and went outside. Attached is what I got... Better. Is this about normal - ya'll think?
Sorry, I'm an amateur and trying to learn.
So, I put my 35mm Nokton (like the vintage glass, it's not 6-bit coded) on the camera and went outside. Attached is what I got... Better. Is this about normal - ya'll think?
Sorry, I'm an amateur and trying to learn.
Attachments
250swb
Well-known
Are you shooting JPEG? Are you sure some of your JPEG image settings aren't causing the problem? The top picture looks more like contrast and/or saturation is turned all the way down as opposed to being completely blown out by overexposure. Its always best to use RAW as there is more latitude to adjust exposure in post processing.
Steve
Steve
tightsqueez
Well-known
I think as long as you work with DNG files you'll be fine. I see nothing out of the ordinary with the last three images posted.
Having owned 2 M8's and 2 M9's they do have a habit of overexposing a bit, at least to my taste. During the day I expose as if I'm using slide film and at night I shift to a color/B&W negative approach.
The eye has a natural tendency to "look" at the brightest part of an image; we are attracted to light. In this regard I usually keep the highlights at bay, which usually results in the shadows being kicked to the curb.
Unless your subject hangs out in the deepest shadows, it shouldn't be a problem. Otherwise I think there is nothing to worry about - your camera seems to be working fine.
Cheers!
Having owned 2 M8's and 2 M9's they do have a habit of overexposing a bit, at least to my taste. During the day I expose as if I'm using slide film and at night I shift to a color/B&W negative approach.
The eye has a natural tendency to "look" at the brightest part of an image; we are attracted to light. In this regard I usually keep the highlights at bay, which usually results in the shadows being kicked to the curb.
Unless your subject hangs out in the deepest shadows, it shouldn't be a problem. Otherwise I think there is nothing to worry about - your camera seems to be working fine.
Cheers!
jay_kay
Member
My M8 overexposes like crazy with a vintage Russian Jupiter-12 from the 60s, I think the M8 can have some issues exposing correctly with older glass. I just dial in some -EV when using that lens.
Ryan1938
Established
I only shoot in RAW... I'm gonna give it another shot today and see what happens.
The rear element of the J-12 protrudes deep into the camera, and probably corrupts the exposure reading.
ramosa
B&W
hmmm ... i normally set EV at -2/3. but your first set of results seems well beyond correction with such a moderate change in setting. the second set of results seems much more "correctable." phil mentioned firmware updates. which one are you using?
Ryan1938
Established
Ryan1938
Established
Ryan1938
Established
Obviously, the vintage lens seems to overexpose more than the new Nokton. However, the Nokton isn't great either. I was very careful with the metering this time.
I think my M8 might have an issue... Either that or I'm doing something wrong which is a real possibility.
To fix these images, all I have to do is a quick "auto levels" within Apple's Aperture and then they are good to go.
What do you guys think is going on? Suggestions?
I think my M8 might have an issue... Either that or I'm doing something wrong which is a real possibility.
To fix these images, all I have to do is a quick "auto levels" within Apple's Aperture and then they are good to go.
What do you guys think is going on? Suggestions?
elmer3.5
Well-known
1 stop
1 stop
Hi, my camera does overexpose but only for 1 stop, on the profiles i set 3 that goes -1 ev, -2/3 ev and 0 ev, i ussually use -1 ev on the outside and 0 for indoor shooting.
It helps a lot setting profiles like this.
When counterlight situations the best is AE lock.
Bye!
1 stop
Hi, my camera does overexpose but only for 1 stop, on the profiles i set 3 that goes -1 ev, -2/3 ev and 0 ev, i ussually use -1 ev on the outside and 0 for indoor shooting.
It helps a lot setting profiles like this.
When counterlight situations the best is AE lock.
Bye!
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
A bit off-topic, I think it is best not to set exposure compensation on the camera if it is over-exposing 1/3 to 1/2 of a stop.
When shooting film, I always over-expose a bit: ASA100 @ 80, ASA200 @ 160, ASA400 @ 320. Makes the grain on the film less dominant and it is ease enough to compensate when printing.
This is what the M8 and M9 do: a 320 image looks like a 400 film exposed at 320, a 160 image looks like a 200 film exposed at 160.
If one sets the exposure compensation, highlights will be better but digital noise will emerge in the shadows and there is no way to compensate that when digitally developing/printing.
Should total dynamic range exceed the sensor's sensitivity, I would make sure highlights are okay, and have shadows contain noise. Like TightSqueez said, we tend to look at light portions of an image first so they should be okay most.
Sorry, back on track.
When shooting film, I always over-expose a bit: ASA100 @ 80, ASA200 @ 160, ASA400 @ 320. Makes the grain on the film less dominant and it is ease enough to compensate when printing.
This is what the M8 and M9 do: a 320 image looks like a 400 film exposed at 320, a 160 image looks like a 200 film exposed at 160.
If one sets the exposure compensation, highlights will be better but digital noise will emerge in the shadows and there is no way to compensate that when digitally developing/printing.
Should total dynamic range exceed the sensor's sensitivity, I would make sure highlights are okay, and have shadows contain noise. Like TightSqueez said, we tend to look at light portions of an image first so they should be okay most.
Sorry, back on track.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
I dislike exposure compensation dialed in permanently. It makes for bad exposure in many cases. A high-contrast image needs a completely different exposure than a low-contrast one to get optimal dynamic range. The aim should be to shoot a full histogram.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
No - the best is manual exposure. Measure the image for the parts you want exposed correctly.
leicashot
Well-known
Maybe your meter is default set to over expose but you are ultimately responsible for the image. Why are you using a Leica in full auto? Auto shutter and auto white balance? Aperture priority is not semi manual. its semi auto.
While you're deciding the depth of field you are not controlling the exposure at all, then blaming the camera. Remember, cameras don't over expose, people do, and in this case you are. I recommend you put the camera in manual and control the outcome yourself. this way your images will be more consistent and there's no one to blame but yourself. With the ability to check the set exposure on the LCD, manual exposure is so much simpler with digital. Why not take advantage of it and achieve better results by your own merits?