Contax g1 batteries

skinnie

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Nov 12, 2013
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Hi ,
Just bough an used Contax G1 + 45mm f2 + 90mm f2.8 and I have a question:
Can I use CR123 batteries on G1 or just CR2?I know the manual says CR2, but since both are 3V and I guess the size is close.
As anyone tried?
Because CR123 are widely available and much cheaper.
Thanks
 
Are you sure 'bout the CR2 is more expensive and the CR123 more readily available? Both are available through Bol.com (a sort of Dutch Amazon) and priced comparable.
 
There's no way CR123 would fit in the battery compartment of G1. It's true; CR2's are more expensive and harder to find. Once I had to drive 20 miles to the next town, because the drugstore in town where I had been had only 1 Cr-2 left. Now I stock on CR-2s on ebay. Good brand like Duracell or Energizer cost me $2 a pop. Good luck.
 
CR123 have dropped significantly in price as they are the regular non-rechargeable battery in high-power "tactical" LED torches. CR2 are still available, but these days they cost about double you what you have to pay for discount CR123's - six times, if you consider that they have a mere third of their electrical capacity. There are sleeves to use CR2 in place of CR123, but the other way around won't do. CR123 are about twice the volume of a CR2 and bigger than the outer dimensions of the G1 battery compartment, so that not even pretty radical rebuilding would make them fit inside a G1.

There also are rechargeable versions of the CR2 - cheap enough that they'll make themselves (and the charger) paid after about 10-20 cycles.
 
They don't fit! Get a rechargeable set to save money... and like wise people above mentioned stock up on ebay. One time 20$ battery investment will last you a lifetime.
 
Meijers had a bunch of Duracell 2-packs for 80% off, I stocked up for roughly 1.25$ a battery.
Once those die, I'm going rechargeable! Can anyone reccomend a set?
 
There are many reasons to doubt that there is any predictable relation between their branding and origin. Just watch out you buy nominally 3.0V (3.3V where sold by their real voltage) iron phosphate ones rather than the (more widespread and cheaper) 3.7V manganese ones - 10% higher voltage is within the tolerances anything taking regular lithium cells should cope with, while 25% is rather beyond being safe.
 
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