Dralowid
Michael
Yes I think the central spring would have to be turned otherwise it is tensioning by undoing itself and then the central hole in the spindle would be in the wrong place.
I fear all this might turn me dyslexic!
I fear all this might turn me dyslexic!
Deklari
Well-known
Deklari
Well-known
On the picture of Deklari it seems as if the central axle on a Contax I is the same as on a Contax II/III but simply turned around.
Erik.[/quote]
If modify central axle ...
Erik.[/quote]
If modify central axle ...
Highway 61
Revisited
How about using a Contax II/III (or, more likely, a Kiev) axle, turning it left to right, then drilling new holes in it so that they match the Contax I axle spring holes locations ?
The axle is thin but there are extra-small (micrometrical) precision drilling tools out there.
The axle is thin but there are extra-small (micrometrical) precision drilling tools out there.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Highway 61
Revisited
The axle ends are put to some heavy friction motion when you fire the shutter. Anything glued at the end of the axle won't stay in place for long. In my opinion.
The axle is probably not made of steel, so we can't think of adding some material at its ends by high voltage soldering, then re-machining the ends so they have the good shape for the Contax I shutter crate. But, who knows.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Hmm, two component glue and thread of solid fabric, silk? I think you can fix the end of a spring to the axle with that.
Or fixing the end of the spring with tight, small plastic rings? I often repaired things with small pieces of my sons Lego.
Erik.
Deklari
Well-known
It will work. But much easy just re-install 2 springs on old Contax I axle.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Deklari
Well-known
Dralowid
Michael
I agree, for me this is the crux of the matter, spring installation without distortion will be very, very hard.
Collectively we will have a eureka moment sooner or later, it just hasn't happened yet!
Michael
(PS, I reckon the axle is steel. Looks like 2mm. It wouldn't be too difficult to make one but we would then be back to the problem of spring installation from scratch.)
Deklari
Well-known
What if modify a holder for the axle in the shutter?
Deklari
Well-known
Erik van Straten
Veteran
That is a very good idea. I do not like the tension setting of the Contax I. The aluminium of the shutter crate is in fact too soft for the screws that hold the hatch. You need bigger screws every time.
This idea is very good, but the question is: is there room for it?
Erik.
Dralowid
Michael
I think there is room and it makes a lot of sense.
I wonder...the early Contax I with a dimple does not have the same tensioning device as the one we have been looking at. From what I can see it is on the other side and hidden by the cover for the sprockets. It might be held by some sort of concentric cam (or just a screw).
I haven't pulled this camera apart yet, having two in bits seemed a recipe of disaster and I couldn't see how it would help. I might do so to have a look but I wonder why it was changed? Accessibility maybe?
Does the Kuc book say anything about this?
Michael
I wonder...the early Contax I with a dimple does not have the same tensioning device as the one we have been looking at. From what I can see it is on the other side and hidden by the cover for the sprockets. It might be held by some sort of concentric cam (or just a screw).
I haven't pulled this camera apart yet, having two in bits seemed a recipe of disaster and I couldn't see how it would help. I might do so to have a look but I wonder why it was changed? Accessibility maybe?
Does the Kuc book say anything about this?
Michael
Highway 61
Revisited
The same with the Contax II/III / Kiev shutter crate...
If the Contax II/III / Kiev drum axle is made of real steel, its ends can be modified by adding some material with a precision high voltage soldering unit, then re-machining the ends so that they fit the Contax I shutter crate.
Dralowid
Michael
I couldn't resist taking a quick look at the 'dimple' camera.
Seen from the back.
Left hand side. This is not a tensioning device, it is simply a bearing.
IMG_2849 by dralowid, on Flickr
Right hand side. This, I guess, is the tensioning device, hidden behind the cover over the sprocket rollers. Not immediately obvious how it works
IMG_2850 by dralowid, on Flickr
I will put it back together now.
Seen from the back.
Left hand side. This is not a tensioning device, it is simply a bearing.
IMG_2849 by dralowid, on FlickrRight hand side. This, I guess, is the tensioning device, hidden behind the cover over the sprocket rollers. Not immediately obvious how it works
IMG_2850 by dralowid, on FlickrI will put it back together now.
Last edited:
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Thank you, Michael, for all this work for the pictures. They are very good.
No, the Kuc book is not very technically, it only says that between the cameras there are many differences.
Erik.
oftheherd
Veteran
Absolutely! And for all who have contributed. What a treasure trove of information.
Dralowid
Michael
It would seem that the roller remains the same from my camera V3 or V4 (in other words first model with slow speeds) right through to Deklari's which is the last version V6 or V7.
MAYBE!!!