Contax I ribbons

Would a small (probably need a really small) amount of heat help them move and stay where they should? Would it damage other parts do you think?

Probably, but it should be really "local heat" to avoid damage.

Ideal will be remove rivets, make it flat and install it back. But without special tools it is impossible.
 
Hi Contax I Team!

I too have been away from the world of ribbons and blinds, but seeing this thread again makes me wonder about the 'dimple or pimple' camera in my cupboard. I wonder, as winter looms, is it time for another project or should I, like Erik suggested, leave it alone?

I don't know. My attempts at the other camera were only a partial success (even though I was quite proud of them) and I'm not sure if I'd use this one even if it did work.
 
Hi Contax I Team!

I too have been away from the world of ribbons and blinds, but seeing this thread again makes me wonder about the 'dimple or pimple' camera in my cupboard. I wonder, as winter looms, is it time for another project or should I, like Erik suggested, leave it alone?

I don't know. My attempts at the other camera were only a partial success (even though I was quite proud of them) and I'm not sure if I'd use this one even if it did work.

I still use it. Contax I is the oldest 35mm camera in my collection. Plus I got nice J-12 for this camera. In average, I shoot at least one roll per month. Shutter working fine almost year. My last problem whit film winding. I got roll with many double exposure shoots and multiple film perforation rupture. I find out what camera "back door" press too much on vilvet-lined exit slot of film cassette. The take up spool can't pull out film from cassette. I guess new cassette have a different exit slot thickness or size. It also brand dependent, for example Kodak work fine but Fuji has this issue. I have removed left film "support roller" to reduce pressure on the film. Finally it working. Sometime I get really sick of this camera.. but I come back and try it again.. and again.. and again..:bang::D
 
I'm not sure if I'd use this one even if it did work.

This is one of my most popular pictures on Flickr, it has about 85 fav's and over 3.000 views.

Contax I, Nikkor 50mm f/2, 400-2TMY, Perceptol.

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Erik, That's a great picture, I can feel the cold wet gloves and slush under my feet!

Thanks for attempting to encourage me, for Contax I still have 3.5 Tessar and 2.0 Sonnar, both black and nickel which ought to encourage me further.

Lately I have been using an old SL MOT with 21 and 60 which is way 'off topic' but a different kind of experience and an enjoyable change from this RF business!
 
Would a small (probably need a really small) amount of heat help them move and stay where they should? Would it damage other parts do you think?

Guys, thank you very much for your feedback. Very useful.

Just an idea about heating, do not kill me. Using extreme care and precision, what do you think about warming the ends of latches with a small welder and try to model them with tweezer and screwdriver?
 
Guys, thank you very much for your feedback. Very useful.

Just an idea about heating, do not kill me. Using extreme care and precision, what do you think about warming the ends of latches with a small welder and try to model them with tweezer and screwdriver?

I can't really suggest you do this. I only show how I did it and it could be wrong way. But it works for me. Now it is your choice :)
 
Hi. I have similar issue. It is difficult to make them parallel. In my case, I put my smallest screwdriver under latches very close to rivet, and gently press. But be very careful don't break them.

Yes, it worked! It's not a perfect job, but enough to support the closing of the curtains.

Thanks a lot for the suggestion :)
I'm happy because the camera is fully working now.

In this thread, many times people talk about lubrication. I used sewing machine oil for the axes and the lighter fluid for the gear teeth.
But what is the right lubricant (grease or oil) and cleaner (lighter fluid) to be used in different parts of the camera and, above all, which parts?
 
Lighter fluid is no lubricant, but a cleaner.

Oil - sewing machine oil - is excellent for fast running points and f-stops. Use the absolute minimum. Apply with a needle.

Ballbearing grease (from a bike shop) is excellent for slow moving parts, often also for the focusing thread of old lenses. Apply with an artists brush.

Erik.
 
Alas I've not been able to get work done on that last Contax I that I bought. I've received the Aki-Asahi straps but I don't have a free table top to work on it for the next couple of weeks :(
 
Alas I've not been able to get work done on that last Contax I that I bought. I've received the Aki-Asahi straps but I don't have a free table top to work on it for the next couple of weeks :(

I have same problem now.. :) I currently working on very old project back to 1890s. ..it ocupated all table top.

I hope Gabriele see your shots soon :)
 
I hope Gabriele see your shots soon :)

And here they are! Thanks to a business trip to Stockholm, I brought the Contax I with me and I took first pictures with a Fomopan 200 Creative film.
In any case, even with a bad day and therefore slow speed times (never faster than 1/50), I'm happy about the shots I've made.
That are not masterpieces, but enough to evaluate the restore operation :D

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Thanks to everyone for your great support!
 
Congratulations! Very nice and sharp images! The camera suffers only from a small, but well known Contax desease: uneven exposure. The top of the images is a bit overexposed. Sometimes a bit of ball-bearing grease on the curtains, were they meet, helps.

Erik.
 
Congratulations! Very nice and sharp images! The camera suffers only from a small, but well known Contax desease: uneven exposure. The top of the images is a bit overexposed. Sometimes a bit of ball-bearing grease on the curtains, were they meet, helps.

Erik.

Hi Erik, I got the point. In reassembly, I've put some sew oil on both sides of the drum shaft (upper and lower). Is it the wrong way? Where do you suggest to put grease exactly?

Thanks, Gabriele.
 
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