Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
I can probably live with it just working at 1/100th
But I would like to see the slow speeds work a well.
I also put in an order with Nobby Sparrow for the frame counter reset button that was missing on this camera.
But I would like to see the slow speeds work a well.
I also put in an order with Nobby Sparrow for the frame counter reset button that was missing on this camera.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
I can probably live with it just working at 1/100th![]()
Maybe you have to oil the gear-train next to the shutter-opening. It is not good when this is dry. Just a tiny little bit of sewing oil, applied with an artists-brush.
I hope that your camera does not suffer from perforitis, that is when the sprocketholes of the film show up in the picture. I've never found a solution for that problem.
I'm looking forward to your results!
Erik.
Dralowid
Michael
I found a small bottle of 'JD Windle's Clock Oil' medium viscosity which is very fine.
http://www.priorypolishes.co.uk/sho...s-clock-oil-50-ml-6-50-incl-free-postage.html
See the other stuff they do some of which might be handy.
I thought one could reduce the dreaded perforitis by filing down the spikes on the shafts? Or have I got this the wrong way round?
http://www.priorypolishes.co.uk/sho...s-clock-oil-50-ml-6-50-incl-free-postage.html
See the other stuff they do some of which might be handy.
I thought one could reduce the dreaded perforitis by filing down the spikes on the shafts? Or have I got this the wrong way round?
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
I've let some mil-spec Break-Free CLP oil work its way into the slow speed gears. 1/25th is now also running okay.
Slower speeds and Z are still not cooperating.
The winding mechanism is also a bit tight now that I've put the top back on the camera. So I guess it's another disassembly and lube job tomorrow.
Slower speeds and Z are still not cooperating.
The winding mechanism is also a bit tight now that I've put the top back on the camera. So I guess it's another disassembly and lube job tomorrow.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
I thought one could reduce the dreaded perforitis by filing down the spikes on the shafts? Or have I got this the wrong way round?
Thank you Michael, I will study this.
Erik.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
The winding mechanism is also a bit tight now that I've put the top back on the camera. So I guess it's another disassembly and lube job tomorrow.
The oil needs some time to settle. Maybe the camera gets smoother in time.
Erik.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
After sitting for a night the camera appears to be working on all speeds from 1/25th and faster 
Perforitis? Where the film doesn't run straight across the film plane? I would imagine this is due to the film cartidge sitting too low in the film chamber like with the early leicas.
Perforitis? Where the film doesn't run straight across the film plane? I would imagine this is due to the film cartidge sitting too low in the film chamber like with the early leicas.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Mr_Flibble;2778112 Perforitis? Where the film doesn't run straight across the film plane? I would imagine this is due to the film cartidge sitting too low in the film chamber like with the early leicas.[/quote said:Yes, but in Leicas it helps to put some carboard under the cassette. In a Contax I it does not.
Maybe Michaels idea helps to file off the teeth of the fork that goes into the top of the cassette. I will try that when I finally will find some time. Im too busy with work at the moment.
Good luck, Rick!
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
No slow speeds, but at 1/25th and faster I'm happy for now.

Dralowid
Michael
Yes, but in Leicas it helps to put some carboard under the cassette. In a Contax I it does not.
Maybe Michaels idea helps to file off the teeth of the fork that goes into the top of the cassette. I will try that when I finally will find some time. Im too busy with work at the moment.
Good luck, Rick!
I'm sure it is a tip I picked up on this forum, I cannot think where else I might have read it. Be careful though, my Contax didn't suffer from perforitis so I have never tried it...yet.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
I've redone the Contax engravings on the camera.
Looking at the DOF scale engravings on the focus mount; those should be filled in with black, yes?
Looking at the DOF scale engravings on the focus mount; those should be filled in with black, yes?
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Rick, your camera is a Version 5 AFAIK. In Kuc' "Auf den Spuren der CONTAX" the Version 5 has no paint in the dept of field scale-engraving, also not in the index. The big CONTAX word is filled with white. The distance scale is filled with black paint.
Congrats, your camera looks very fine.
Erik.
Congrats, your camera looks very fine.
Erik.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Then it's just dirt in the other DOF scale numbers. Thanks.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Shared my slow speed problem with Milo,
He said to check the friction buckles, the leather spacer on the bottom curtain roller and if the ribbons aren't bunching up on the roller.
When I was putting the camera together I like to think that the buckle on one side wasn't running parallel with the other one. Asif there was a slight bend to the plate with the buckle in it.
Will have to see if that's right when I take it apart again.
Meanwhile, Contax engravings filled in
He said to check the friction buckles, the leather spacer on the bottom curtain roller and if the ribbons aren't bunching up on the roller.
When I was putting the camera together I like to think that the buckle on one side wasn't running parallel with the other one. Asif there was a slight bend to the plate with the buckle in it.
Will have to see if that's right when I take it apart again.
Meanwhile, Contax engravings filled in

Deklari
Well-known
Timings look good now. But the slow speed escapement is sticky. Found a couple of replacement screws to hold the bottom roller.
Next problem is the bottom curtain slipping on the ribbons when winding. Sometimes leaves an opening when the bottom curtain reaches the top of the film frame.
The quest continues
I have same problem Rick. In two slow groups from 1/10 to B escapement is sticky. I have use setting from "white labeled" 1/100 or 1/500 for those "red labeled" groups, it give me 1/25, 1/10 and 1/5s.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
I think something is still off in the slow speed gears. The lower curtain gets stuck when it's halfway across the film plane. It can be pushed back up freely, but it just doesn't want to go below that point...possibly the point where the second curtain is supposed to be released.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
The lower curtain gets stuck when it's halfway across the film plane. It can be pushed back up freely, but it just doesn't want to go below that point
If the shutter runs OK on the high speeds, the problem must lie in the slow speed train. This is all I can say I'm afraid.
Erik.
Deklari
Well-known
I think something is still off in the slow speed gears. The lower curtain gets stuck when it's halfway across the film plane. It can be pushed back up freely, but it just doesn't want to go below that point...possibly the point where the second curtain is supposed to be released.
Same in my camera. I didn't figure out how to fix this. Something wrong with gears setting at slow groups speed? I have try meany different gear combination but not luck.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
I need to figure out if this has anything to do with the release mechanism for the top curtain (regulated by the slow speed escapement) or maybe the curtain is snagging on the guides on the back plate.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
maybe the curtain is snagging on the guides on the back plate.
Yes, maybe you'll have to bow things a little. It is too long ago so I do not remember all the parts on the inside of the camera anymore. You can put some grease on the inside of the back plate too.
Erik.
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