Contax IIa Color Dial?

[Robadams]

My first post. I have recently received a IIa from a friend. It has the pc socket. The shutter speed dial numbers are black, except for the 1/25 and 1/50, which are yellow. The serial number is A442xx. I can’t find any reference to this variation. The camera is functionally normal, optically and mechanically. The lens is the 1.5 Sonnar. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Cascadilla]

Does it have a PC socket on the back? If so, should be a color dial Contax IIa. It is possible that it was converted from a black dial by a previous owner. I have owned a number of Contax IIa and IIIa color dial bodies and all of them have 1/50 in yellow and 1/100 and faster in red with 1/25 and slower in black. I'm not sure what might have happened to yours, but if the camera works I wouldn't worry about it. As you will discover, the 50 mm f/1.5 Sonnar is an excellent lens.

 

[Robadams]

IIa Color Dial?

IIa Color Dial?

The camera has the pc socket. The camera is completely original, having the same owner since new.

 

[Gregm61]

Check the higher speeds. If it's not been serviced recently, the speeds from 1/200 sec and higher could be shading and, at 1/500 and 1/1250, the curtains might not actually be opening at all. They may SOUND normal, but the actual operation may be something completely different.

 

[Robadams]

Shutter functions appear to be normal. I checked with my friend, the previous owner and He stated that this camera was one of three, that were serviced by Werner. His recollection is that the servicing was done in the late 90’s.

 

[Bill Jones]

Serial numbers A44### date from the middle of 1953 and were all black dial cameras. Your camera's sync was probably changed sometime in the last 67 years since it was made.

I would suggest you check the sync speed with an electronic flash. You may find it works at both the 25 and 50 speeds.

 

[Cascadilla]

Electronic flash should work at 1/50 and slower--I've used flash and ambient combined at slow shutter speeds with no problems.

 

[Robadams]

IIa Color Dial

IIa Color Dial

Thank you all, for your insight. I’m happy with the camera as it is. I would say one final thing. It is my understanding that a pc upgrade on the black dial is not possible, due to the electronics and switches in the color dial. Anyway, it came with a number of lenses and I’m looking forward to using it.

 

[Bill Jones]

Thank you all, for your insight. I’m happy with the camera as it is. I would say one final thing. It is my understanding that a pc upgrade on the black dial is not possible, due to the electronics and switches in the color dial. Anyway, it came with a number of lenses and I’m looking forward to using it.

Rob,

There are no electronics in any classic Contaxes. Adding a PC outlet is fairly easy, but setting the sync is a bit tricky. Usually an added PC outlet would sync for either flashbulbs or electronic flash. When the Contax was new flash bulbs were the most common way to go. They trip earlier than electron flashes. An electronic flash should show a darker area at the bottom of the frame (top of the picture) if the camera is synced for flash bulbs. If it is synced for electronic flash it should be good for all speeds up to 1/50th with an electronic flash.

Enjoy using your Contax. They are great Cameras and all of their lenses are great also. When I got my first Contax (IIIa black dial) I used it for a couple of years without a flash and enjoyed it. Because of no electronics your camera will last long than newer cameras with electronics. Also the lenses work great on mirrorless cameras. I use mine mainly on Sony A7 Rm4 and Rm2's where the results are sharper but still use the Contax occasionally.

Bill

 

[Robadams]

Contax IIa

Contax IIa

Bill,
Thank you for your info. Electronics was a poor choice of words. I think what I was trying to say, is that I read that it was not practical to modify, or add the necessary electrical components and to do the upgrade. At any rate, 99 percent of my photography Is natural light, So it won’t make a difference. Good luck and stay well.
Rob

 

[farlymac]

The way to use electronic flash on the black dial models was via the 1366 adapter which connected between the flash sync cord and the camera, then you adjusted the 1366 until you got a full flash through the film frame (this was done visually looking through the back of the camera). The color dial models fortunately eliminated that hassle.


PF

 

[galleryg]

This will explain it in detail...
http://zeisscamera.com/articles_cdbd.shtml

 

[Highway 61]

The way to use electronic flash on the black dial models was via the 1366 adapter which connected between the flash sync cord and the camera, then you adjusted the 1366 until you got a full flash through the film frame (this was done visually looking through the back of the camera). The color dial models fortunately eliminated that hassle.

Yes but to eliminate that hassle of being in need of the 1366 adapter once a year when you want to play with a flash on a RF camera, the color dial models, with their weird sync. circuitry, got into the hassle of the shutter not wanting to fire at all at any speed when you depress the shutter release, which is the hassle of the hassles isn't it.

😀

I used to own a black dial IIa with a standard PC socket in lieu of the special flash socket for the 1361 and 1366 adapters. It had been retrofitted with a simple and functional flash sync. circuitry. The circuitry got closed when the first curtain ended its journey, with small brass slats soldered at the bottom of the shutter gate, and wires going to the PC socket glued alongside the hidden side of the shutter crate, like on retro-sync'ed prewar Contaxes and like on all the sync'ed Kievs.

 

[markjwyatt]

I have a 1366 adapter for my Contax iia. Used it for a few a shots, and it worked as expected. It is very stiff compared to my PC wire, and the plug kept popping out, so it was a bit of a hassle, but it does work. The other issue is if I put a flash on the cold shoe, I cannot use a viewfinder meaning I mainly have to use the 50mm, but I do have flash brackets, so that could be manageable. Fortunately, I do not use much flash with the Contax.

 

[farlymac]

Yes but to eliminate that hassle of being in need of the 1366 adapter once a year when you want to play with a flash on a RF camera, the color dial models, with their weird sync. circuitry, got into the hassle of the shutter not wanting to fire at all at any speed when you depress the shutter release, which is the hassle of the hassles isn't it.
😀

I used to own a black dial IIa with a standard PC socket in lieu of the special flash socket for the 1361 and 1366 adapters. It had been retrofitted with a simple and functional flash sync. circuitry. The circuitry got closed when the first curtain ended its journey, with small brass slats soldered at the bottom of the shutter gate, and wires going to the PC socket glued alongside the hidden side of the shutter crate, like on retro-sync'ed prewar Contaxes and like on all the sync'ed Kievs.

I did the 1366 adjustment just once to see if it would work. The camera had other issues I had not figured out yet, and subsequently I purchased a Nikon S2. I've never used a flash on it either, but then I won't need no stinking adapter if I do. I eventually fixed the problem with the IIa, but used it only once more as I had already been spoiled by the S2 finder.

PF

 

[farlymac]

I have a 1366 adapter for my Contax iia. Used it for a few a shots, and it worked as expected. It is very stiff compared to my PC wire, and the plug kept popping out, so it was a bit of a hassle, but it does work. The other issue is if I put a flash on the cold shoe, I cannot use a viewfinder meaning I mainly have to use the 50mm, but I do have flash brackets, so that could be manageable. Fortunately, I do not use much flash with the Contax.

I'm always looking for a way to rig a flash bracket to any camera I have as I found it much easier to handle the camera with a flash unit. If I use a bracket with a bounce mount then I can use even the non-movable head units and point them any direction I need them to be.

PF

 

[Highway 61]

I did the 1366 adjustment just once to see if it would work. The camera had other issues I had not figured out yet, and subsequently I purchased a Nikon S2. I've never used a flash on it either, but then I won't need no stinking adapter if I do. I eventually fixed the problem with the IIa, but used it only once more as I had already been spoiled by the S2 finder.

PF

I like the Contax II and IIa very much - and still own one item of each model - for their look and their historical background, and I have serviced many of them as well as a Contax IIIa, but I am with you to say that the best Contax rangefinder body is the Nikon S2. 😉

 

[farlymac]

I like the Contax II and IIa very much - and still own one item of each model - for their look and their historical background, and I have serviced many of them as well as a Contax IIIa, but I am with you to say that the best Contax rangefinder body is the Nikon S2. 😉

Just wish I had figured out that Contax way before I got the Nikon. Might have gotten more use out of it. It was such a simple fix, and for the life of me I can't determine why someone would have done that to it. There was an extra washer installed underneath the winding knob making the frame counter jump ahead three to five spots each time. I got tired of losing count, so the camera just sat until a couple of years later when I worked up the courage to take it apart for a diagnosis.

Still haven't found a good reason to part with it though.

PF