pb908
Well-known
Since last time I opened my IIa to clean (and adjust)RF on this thread
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95070
, I have a great fun with IIa. the result of a test roll showing me everything in great working condition.
Last few days back, my son (2 years old) was playing around in my room and grab the IIa from the desk and dropped it to the floor. Thanks God that he didn't get hurt because of the camera drop.
Unfortunately the camera get some damaged. the filter thread on the lens was bent (but all lens movement OK), and the camera 2'nd curtain won't close properly. it just hangs up somehow in the middle of it's movement. Thinking positively, this was a chance to learn more about my IIa.
so I decided to disassembly again to see what's happen.
following rick's notes on how to open top cover is now piece of cake :
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-62.html
I just need to be careful while putting everything back, specially the shutter button and film counter assembly.
After top cover is opened, then I remove 4 screws to open the front cover. you need to slide this cover up so the hole is released from focus wheel assy :
then I remove the top cover of low speed escapement assy (remove the 4 screws indicated with red arrows). :
then you can see the whole top area of gears. see the way the sync contact connected to 1st curtain gears (it should short it when 1st curtain rest in bottom position). You can see as well the 2 screw I use to adjust RF horizontally :
and then to access the shutter module, we need to remove lens mount, infinity lock bar and focus wheel assy (make sure you put a mark on all gears with lens set to infinity. this will help you during assembly)
Once that done, you need to remove 3 screws holding the shutter (and prism) assy. remove the dust cover on the rewind bar, underneath that dust cover you will need to remove a metal spacer/washer (if you don't remove this, it might scratch your prism). You need to remove the selt timer handle (hold the handle and turn CCW the screw). this is not in the picture.
after you remove the self timer handle, then you can lift carefully the top metal assembly from the chassis (bottom). it will separate
below, you can see the chassis alone. there is a gear not in the picture that may fall out. this connect the gears (of film winding/sprocket) seen on the chassis to the winding gears on the top assy.
below you can see the shutter module alone, I put some note on the mechanism (look like the curtain tensioning system, loosen the screw, rotate the gears, tighten it back..maybe, possible)
below you can see the winding assy. there are gears that connect the curtains and gears to move the winding mechanism. in my case, I don't grease (or use very light oil) whatever gears that move during exposure). if you see there are gears with grease and gears without :
here is the clear picture of the bevel gears from behind :
the gears you see above is connected to the wheel on the top :
OK, now we go to the front. remove firstly the blue screws, then you can lift the prism out. and then remove the red screw (cover screw). then you can pull the cover out and you will see the whole gears from the front.
you can also get the access to clean RF window
on my case, removing gears cover release 2'nd curtain problem. it happen because the cover has some part that bent and touch the bevel gears, this stop bevel gears movement when tension is lesser (when 2nd curtain move almost reaching bottom of chassis). so after fixing the cover, everything went back to normal. you can turn CCW the wheel of 2nd curtain (on the top assy) and you can see that it move freely (2nd curtain will goes up when you move the wheel CCW)
now you can clean all dirt you can see, grease all area you can. in my IIa, it had lot's of rusted area on the top assy, so I need to put WD40 lightly, use the screw driver/pick tool to clean it and i spray contact cleaner to clean them all. I need to spray it in specific direction so the spray don't drop/touch the curtain area.
after waiting for everything to dry, I check the mechanism several time, all the movable part need to move freely. event a small amount of light oil may slowdown the lever that connect slow speed escapement assy to the 2nd curtain. so better to keep all the moving part dry. do some exercise to see if there are oil traps that can disturb exposure process.
so, you need to assemble back in the reverse order : gear cover, prism, install it on the chassis, RF wheel and lens mount (take several trial error to align all gears correctly, the mark on the gear helps a lot!!), adjust RF (if needed). install the slow speed assy cover (watch out for the sync contact, it need to be isolated from any metal, I need to put a new tape to do it), front cover, top cover, winding assy..
still have a homework to do, gluing a new leatherette for my IIa..
So guys, do it if you have guts to try, take your own responsibility !!! remember every step you take, take precaution, memorize all the parts/screw position, use your digital camera to help you remember, etc..
I hope this helps..
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95070
, I have a great fun with IIa. the result of a test roll showing me everything in great working condition.
Last few days back, my son (2 years old) was playing around in my room and grab the IIa from the desk and dropped it to the floor. Thanks God that he didn't get hurt because of the camera drop.
Unfortunately the camera get some damaged. the filter thread on the lens was bent (but all lens movement OK), and the camera 2'nd curtain won't close properly. it just hangs up somehow in the middle of it's movement. Thinking positively, this was a chance to learn more about my IIa.
so I decided to disassembly again to see what's happen.
following rick's notes on how to open top cover is now piece of cake :
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-62.html
I just need to be careful while putting everything back, specially the shutter button and film counter assembly.
After top cover is opened, then I remove 4 screws to open the front cover. you need to slide this cover up so the hole is released from focus wheel assy :
then I remove the top cover of low speed escapement assy (remove the 4 screws indicated with red arrows). :
then you can see the whole top area of gears. see the way the sync contact connected to 1st curtain gears (it should short it when 1st curtain rest in bottom position). You can see as well the 2 screw I use to adjust RF horizontally :
and then to access the shutter module, we need to remove lens mount, infinity lock bar and focus wheel assy (make sure you put a mark on all gears with lens set to infinity. this will help you during assembly)
Once that done, you need to remove 3 screws holding the shutter (and prism) assy. remove the dust cover on the rewind bar, underneath that dust cover you will need to remove a metal spacer/washer (if you don't remove this, it might scratch your prism). You need to remove the selt timer handle (hold the handle and turn CCW the screw). this is not in the picture.
after you remove the self timer handle, then you can lift carefully the top metal assembly from the chassis (bottom). it will separate
below, you can see the chassis alone. there is a gear not in the picture that may fall out. this connect the gears (of film winding/sprocket) seen on the chassis to the winding gears on the top assy.
below you can see the shutter module alone, I put some note on the mechanism (look like the curtain tensioning system, loosen the screw, rotate the gears, tighten it back..maybe, possible)
below you can see the winding assy. there are gears that connect the curtains and gears to move the winding mechanism. in my case, I don't grease (or use very light oil) whatever gears that move during exposure). if you see there are gears with grease and gears without :
here is the clear picture of the bevel gears from behind :
the gears you see above is connected to the wheel on the top :
OK, now we go to the front. remove firstly the blue screws, then you can lift the prism out. and then remove the red screw (cover screw). then you can pull the cover out and you will see the whole gears from the front.
you can also get the access to clean RF window
on my case, removing gears cover release 2'nd curtain problem. it happen because the cover has some part that bent and touch the bevel gears, this stop bevel gears movement when tension is lesser (when 2nd curtain move almost reaching bottom of chassis). so after fixing the cover, everything went back to normal. you can turn CCW the wheel of 2nd curtain (on the top assy) and you can see that it move freely (2nd curtain will goes up when you move the wheel CCW)
now you can clean all dirt you can see, grease all area you can. in my IIa, it had lot's of rusted area on the top assy, so I need to put WD40 lightly, use the screw driver/pick tool to clean it and i spray contact cleaner to clean them all. I need to spray it in specific direction so the spray don't drop/touch the curtain area.
after waiting for everything to dry, I check the mechanism several time, all the movable part need to move freely. event a small amount of light oil may slowdown the lever that connect slow speed escapement assy to the 2nd curtain. so better to keep all the moving part dry. do some exercise to see if there are oil traps that can disturb exposure process.
so, you need to assemble back in the reverse order : gear cover, prism, install it on the chassis, RF wheel and lens mount (take several trial error to align all gears correctly, the mark on the gear helps a lot!!), adjust RF (if needed). install the slow speed assy cover (watch out for the sync contact, it need to be isolated from any metal, I need to put a new tape to do it), front cover, top cover, winding assy..
still have a homework to do, gluing a new leatherette for my IIa..
So guys, do it if you have guts to try, take your own responsibility !!! remember every step you take, take precaution, memorize all the parts/screw position, use your digital camera to help you remember, etc..
I hope this helps..
