Contax T - Tips?

[muf]

My Contax T has just arrived today and it's in full working order - as far as I can tell. I have read numerous times that you need to be careful with the film loading as you can get overlap. I am asking for help from anyone who owns or has owned one with regards to film loading. When loading the film in a manual type camera, I usually feed the lead into the wind on spool and then use the winder to wind it back a bit to get tension. I suspect everyone does this but wanted to say for accuracy. Will the Contax let me do that and is it the best method or is there some 'black art' to it? Great little camera as well. I think me and this little fella are going to be good mates.

Paul

 

[JMQ]

Paul

Congrats on acquiring the Contax T. It is a lovely little camera: very quiet, and has a very sharp 38mm lens. No secrets to loading film: just make sure that the film is properly engaged in the sprockets, and that the film is flat (or taut) before you put in bottom cover back on. Enjoy!

 

[muf]

Thanks for the info. I'll just be careful to make sure it sits flat. I'll post a few piccies once I get a film through it. Again, thanks.

 

[TheHub]

I've run over 15 rolls through mine and still have loading trouble sometimes 🙁 Take your time! If the advance feels rough, the film isn't loaded properly.

 

[JMQ]

I loved the Contax T. I bought one when it was first introduced in circa 1984. As with anything that is a fantastic camera, but not a commercial success, it was discontinued a few short years later. And then it was in demand. At one time, a used T was selling at close to $1000. Then Contax came out w/ the T2, T3, etc. in the early 1990s, but I always thought the original was better. I loved the size of the T without the dedicated flash unit. The black one is especially beautiful. If you have not read Dante Stella's review, do visit his site. Best,

 

[muf]

If you have not read Dante Stella's review, do visit his site. Best,

Thanks. I had already been on there many times in the past. It's a very persuasive site. Reading all that just made me want one more. I'm looking forward to putting the first film through but I won't lie that I'm nervous regarding this film loading issue. Still, I've been after one for many years and now is the time. Cost me just £100 which I thought was good considering how much these can go for. I've got the flash, manual and original suede case as well. Apart from a little ding(which I call character) on the top plate, it's in nice nick. The chrome isn't flaking as well.

Paul

 

[Gary Sandhu]

I think every contax T has a ding on the top plate. I've on my third, all bought used. The back lock mechanism is flimsy: be gentle with that sliding switch, and perhaps cover the outside of it with a bit o gaffers tape for extra precaution.
Remember to keep the lens extended when loading film, so that you can release the shutter to advance the film.
I have better film advance when I do not tighten the film too much upon loading.
After loading and closing, only 1 advance of the shutter is required (it's such a short distance between the film canister and uptake spool).
Also, don't apply any pressure to the film back plate when loading.
You can flip the camera upside down so that the lens cover acts as a sun shade.
You can use the ISO dial as a exposure compensation dial.

 

[muf]

Thanks Gary. Some very useful tips that are very much appreciated. I will remember what you said when loading the film. I'm hoping to get out this weekend(weather permitting. Rains a lot here). I can't wait to take it out for a spin, so to speak.

Paul

 

[DerrickC]

I also acquired a 2nd hand contax t about 2 weeks back. Did not load the film correctly the first time and the whole roll came out empty! :bang: I guess the film did not engage the sprockets properly. Was more careful the second time onwards to ensure the film was engaged properly before closing the back cover and so far so good. It's quite a fun small camera to shoot with and i am enjoying it greatly.

Has anyone adjusted the vertical alignment of the contax t's rangefinder on their own? Mine seems to be slightly off which is a minor irritant as it makes the focusing slightly harder to see clearly. I did a search online and some people have posted that the vertical alignment adjustment screw is just behind the film advance lever but is hard to get to if you have not done it before or if you have not removed the top cover. Any advice is appreciated!

 

[micromoogman]

I have had a couple, sweet but it was like shooting with the Rollei 35, quirky and slow handling. The front door being the big problem. So for "street" it is too slow. Finally I gave up on them. The Oly XA is in my opinion a better choice. The good thing is that the f2,8 is really f2,8, not like in the T2, only available in program mode. Also the lack of motor is great. Black?

Mine had a ding! Probably from the quirky loading yes...

 

[muf]

Has anyone adjusted the vertical alignment of the contax t's rangefinder on their own? Mine seems to be slightly off which is a minor irritant as it makes the focusing slightly harder to see clearly. I did a search online and some people have posted that the vertical alignment adjustment screw is just behind the film advance lever but is hard to get to if you have not done it before or if you have not removed the top cover. Any advice is appreciated!

Mine too has the vertical alignment out. I had a look behind the plug that is behind the film advance lever but even shining a torch inside I couldn't see the adjustment screw. I found a reference on the net that suggests the vertical alignment screw is there, but nothing looking like a screw behind mine. Looked more like two rods with a connector in between. No sign of a philips head or straight slot screw. I'm not sticking a screwdriver in there to 'try it'. So if anyone can assist then I'd also appreciate it.

Paul

 

[muf]

Ok, I had another look around the net and this forum helped me.
http://photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/00PmWY Look at the 2nd post.

I've put mine right and it took about 30 seconds. The screw is in fact diagonal. Take the plug out behind the film advance lever. The screw is situated diagonal towards the viewfinder up towards the underneath of the top plate. Had to shine my torch around for a few seconds until I saw it. It's a philips head(cross head). I used a watch makers flat screwdriver. Pushed it in towards where I saw it and just turned gently until I felt resistance. Then a little turn and after checking it was spot on. I expected to try turning a few times until it was right but I fluked it first go. Checked on a digital display and it's bob on now.

Hope you are successful too!

Paul

 

[DerrickC]

Ok, I had another look around the net and this forum helped me.
http://photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/00PmWY Look at the 2nd post.

I've put mine right and it took about 30 seconds. The screw is in fact diagonal. Take the plug out behind the film advance lever. The screw is situated diagonal towards the viewfinder up towards the underneath of the top plate. Had to shine my torch around for a few seconds until I saw it. It's a philips head(cross head). I used a watch makers flat screwdriver. Pushed it in towards where I saw it and just turned gently until I felt resistance. Then a little turn and after checking it was spot on. I expected to try turning a few times until it was right but I fluked it first go. Checked on a digital display and it's bob on now.

Hope you are successful too!

Paul

Thanks for the info! I'll see if i can do the adjustment once i finish the roll of film i have in it. Will post if i'm successful. Cheers,

Derrick

 

[DerrickC]

Ok, I had another look around the net and this forum helped me.
http://photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/00PmWY Look at the 2nd post.

I've put mine right and it took about 30 seconds. The screw is in fact diagonal. Take the plug out behind the film advance lever. The screw is situated diagonal towards the viewfinder up towards the underneath of the top plate. Had to shine my torch around for a few seconds until I saw it. It's a philips head(cross head). I used a watch makers flat screwdriver. Pushed it in towards where I saw it and just turned gently until I felt resistance. Then a little turn and after checking it was spot on. I expected to try turning a few times until it was right but I fluked it first go. Checked on a digital display and it's bob on now.

Hope you are successful too!

Paul

Hi Paul,

finally got round to trying to do the adjustment. Your instructions was very helpful. Once i managed to see the screw, i had to adjust it a couple of times to get the alignment right. 😀 If i remember correctly, if the bright image that moves is above the static one, turn anticlockwise to move it down. If the bright image that moves is below the static one, turn clockwise to move it up.

Cheers,

Derrick

 

[oktyone]

As someone else mentioned before, be careful with the back locking switch, i broke mine while trying to close it once. I did find a temporary solution though, screwing a tiny tripod socket screw that i got off some other camera strap i had works even better than that damned tiny switch.

 

[kdemas]

I must say the film loading is a bit of a challenge. I'm sure I'll get used to it but it's definitely something to pay attention to.

 

[muf]

Hi Paul,

finally got round to trying to do the adjustment. Your instructions was very helpful. Once i managed to see the screw, i had to adjust it a couple of times to get the alignment right. 😀 If i remember correctly, if the bright image that moves is above the static one, turn anticlockwise to move it down. If the bright image that moves is below the static one, turn clockwise to move it up.

Cheers,

Derrick

Glad to be of assistance. It makes a massive difference to composing the shots. I found it was quite distracting.

As someone else mentioned before, be careful with the back locking switch, i broke mine while trying to close it once. I did find a temporary solution though, screwing a tiny tripod socket screw that i got off some other camera strap i had works even better than that damned tiny switch.

It does appear a little fragile. I'll keep in mind to be careful thanks. Especially in cold weather when plastic can be that bit more brittle.

I must say the film loading is a bit of a challenge. I'm sure I'll get used to it but it's definitely something to pay attention to.

Tell me about it! I've put three rolls through mine now and on all three occasions when trying to load the film with the back off, the sprockets were slipping and not engaging the films slots. I found I got it right on the second attempt. Just wish the film rewind handle would turn for each wind like the old SLR's do. That way at least I'd know it was winding on once the back was re-fitted back on.

The results have been fantastic though! I'll have to upload a few once I get a chance to dig the scanner out.

Paul

 

[raid]

I am not having any problems with loading my T2.
I like using it for its small size and very sharp Zeiss lens.
Even my wife can tell when she sees images taken with Zeiss lenses.
The rendering of faces is beautiful, and colors can be very special.

As for the T having a door, my Minox GT has a lens door, but it does not bother me at all.