Correct agitation for Neopan 1600 in HC-110 dilution H

[bkrystad]

I've been using HC-110 dilution H with HP5 most of the summer and fall, and I'm getting quite used to it. Now I want to test Neopan 1600 for a few months without changing developer.

I shot a roll this Saturday at EI 800, which I've heard is a good choice for this film, especially outdoors. The Fuji recommended time for dilution B is 4'45" which is a bit short for my taste. So I'm going to try dilution H at 9'30".

Question: Fuji directions for dilution B are to agitate for the first full minute, then 5" each minute after that. If I'm using dilution H, should I agitate for the first two minutes (double the dilution B time for agitation)? Or is that going to overagitate/overdevelop?

(Disclaimer: I have developed one other roll of Neopan 1600. That one was at EI 1600 and I used dilution B for 7 minutes but I neglected the directions to agitate for the first full minute and it came out underdeveloped. So I'm worried about underdeveloping this roll at 800.)

 

[jan normandale]

check digitaltruth's massive dev chart here

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Neopan+1600&Developer=HC-110&mdc=Search

hope that helps

 

[charjohncarter]

I don't think you should agitate differently than the Fuji recommendations, at least at this stage. When you start changing time, temp, film speed and agitation cycles you just add way too many variable. Keep everything as constant as you can. And then one by one change whatever variables you want. If Fuji gives a time, temp, agitation cycle for Neopan 1600 at 800 EI then use that. If you need more or less then change the development time. After you have a TIME, then start with one variable (agitation cycle) and change (tweak) that. Jan's advice for a 800 time is good, I have used this site many times, and have been happy 93.5% of the time.

 

[Roger Hicks]

Agitation is not outstandingly critical as long as it's consistent. This normally means (a) continuous or (b) 5 sec/30 sec or (c) 10 sec/min. The initial 30 sec or 1 min continuous (no need for longer) is to make sure the film is fully wetted with no bubbles.

More agitation means faster development -- the usual recommendation is to knock 10-15% off for continuous agitation -- and continuous agitation also gives you very slightly more speed for a given contrast.

As with many things in photography, there is no point in searching for more precision than actually exists.

Cheers,

R.

 

[Ronald M]

What Roger told you again.

I will add you need to test some combination of film, EI, developer on yur house car or anything. 6 exposures will do. That is 12" of 35 mm film which you develope and establish a time temp.

Neopan has a box speed. Use that speed and work out development time. Branch out from there, but you will find the film speed does not change significantly no matter how long you develope the film.


There are too many variable factors for you too use times based on what somone tells you.

I need to stress jumping all over the place will never get you anywhere. Pick something and stick to it. Don`t try something new without running tests first. Making a bunch of bad neg will cause you fits in the darkroom and you will never get a good print no matter how hard you try.