Crap in my M3 VF

[photobizzz]

Hi all,

Quick question. I have never taken a Leica M body apart and while I am pretty handy and never hesitate to take a lens apart I am skeptical of my abilities in this aspect.

While replacing the vulcanite on my M3 DS I inadvertently have gotten dust / crap in the VF of my M3.:bang: Actually I can see it in the framelines and RF patch so I am thinking it is on the half mirror. How hard is it to take the top plate off so I can use some compressed air to blow out the bits of dust?

I would just send it in but this is my only M body and don't have $200 at the moment to pay for a CLA. Thanks for any input.

 

[colyn]

In order to remove the top plate you'll need several different size flexi clamps. Micro-tools.com has them but be ready to spend some money..

Other than that the plate is fairly easy to remove.

 

[payasam]

"While replacing the vulcanite on my M3 DS I inadvertently have gotten dust / crap in the VF of my M3."

Is this even possible? The sub-assembly is fairly well protected against cockroaches, toy poodles and elephants seeking relief...

 

[ItsReallyDarren]

I took the top plate off my M3. It took me about 45 minutes moving very cautiously just to get the top off. The hardest part for me was the film advance lever, I got stuck on it for a while. A set of flexiclamps and some small precision screwdrivers is what I used.

Some helpful items are tape to hold on to screws or cleaning the gunk when you remove a retaining ring as bits of dirt are surrounding a cavity. A magnet to hold on to small screws, I use those rectangle fridge magnets to hold on to small parts.

The hardest part for me was the film advance lever. The lever itself is easy to remove but the bottom retaining ring is difficult to get to because the film counter is right next to it. After long long time working at it I finally realized the film counter window can be removed with one of the flexiclamps. With that out of the way the final ring can be removed with ease.

Removing and reassembling the top plate might take your rangefinder out of alignment. When putting the top plate back on it helps to push in the rangefinder focus arm to keep the top plate from hitting part of the rangefinder mechanism. I did not do this so it might have played a role in knocking off the alignment.

Working on readjusting the rangefinder is not that difficult either. A meter stick comes in handy here.

 

[fbf]

"While replacing the vulcanite on my M3 DS I inadvertently have gotten dust / crap in the VF of my M3."

Is this even possible? The sub-assembly is fairly well protected against cockroaches, toy poodles and elephants seeking relief...

ditto, how is that even possible?

 

[photobizzz]

I am not sure but the particles were not there before I changed the vulcanite and they were after... I basically had to chip and scrape it off as it was hard as rock. I am thinking it was original and the camera is a DS so it is one of the first off the line.