Crooked frames with a 1931 Leica I (non-standard)

[ddutchison2]

At 93 years old this camera has no right to be working at all, but still it does. Curtains are good and the shutter is (more or less) consistent. It needs a cleaning and lube for sure though, and there are also a couple of problems.

First and foremost, the frames are slightly crooked and misplaced (see photo). Is this something that can be corrected in the course of a normal CLA, and If it can, can it be done without the complete disassembly of the whole shutter. I ask because I understand that these cameras are the simplest Leica's ever made and good candidates for careful newbie technicians. However, I don't feel confident enough in my abilities (nor do I have the tools) to completely deconstruct and rebuild a FP shutter to spec. If that's what's needed then I'll pass it off to a professional.

Second problem is a very minor mis-focus problem - but I'll leave that for another thread as it is acceptable as is.
and (more or less) on time.

 

[Bill Jones]

The film cassettes were designed and re-designed more than once since your camera was built. The positioning of the film changed somewhat over time relative to the to- of the cassette and that may be what you are seeing. Try loading a film into a genuine Leica cassette using the cassette's own spool. The may show that the camera is still correctly aligned. In that case just live with the modern film error.

Bill

 

[dotur]

"Everybody who uses these older Leicas have noticed this issue. Not just one person. That's one reason I use the original Leica FILCA brass cassettes in my Leicas. Some will fix this issue by placing either cardboard shims or felt between the bottom of the cassette and the bottom plate in order to raise up the cassette.." New film cassettes vs old Leica cassettes - skewed negatives?
According to "Melvin" on RFF: "It's easy to correct. You just put some felt in the latch on the baseplate where it touches the cassette. Cut a little ring. You don't need glue, just press it into place."

 

[Erik van Straten]

I agree here with Bill Jones. Cut the filmleader with an "ABLON" and put the film in an original early Leica cassette.


gelatin silver print (elmar 50mm f3.5) leica la (1930)

Utrecht 2018

Erik.

 

[dotur]

Eric is absolutely right, of course. To follow the purist advice, you just have to buy at least two FILCA cassettes (cca 40$) and an original ABLON (cca 250$). Alas, Leica Standard itself can be bought for cca 300$. Anything else is cheating. With a small ring of felt - or even with upper lid of an used modern plastic film cassette - you might get the same result... Though, if you are a true Leica fan, you will not be satisfied with efficient improvisations. Been there, done that: I have 23 FILCAs and 2 ABLONs!

 

[santino]

Ring of felt or a washer 😁

 

[Erik van Straten]

It has been a long time since I bought an ABLON and original early Leica cassettes. An ABLON then cost maybe EUR 5 and original cassettes 3 pieces for EUR 10. But times change. You may be able to make an ABLON yourself. Replacing the cassettes is more difficult as the newer Leitz cassettes do not fit well, resulting in showing the perforationholes in the image.

gelatin silver print (elmar 50mm f3.5) leica 1a (1928)

Amsterdam, KNSM, 2022

Erik.

 

[Erik van Straten]

gelatin silver print ( elmar 50mm f3.5) leica 1a (1930)

Utrecht 2018

Erik.

 

[Erik van Straten]

gelatin silver print (elmar 50mm f3.5) leica 1a (1928)

Amsterdam, 2022

Erik.

 

[dotur]

Nice photos, Erik! Respooling modern film to FILCA has to be done in the darkroom or changing bag. The process can cause additional scratches, and takes time. The other solution is to bulk load film. In the times past that could radically reduce the cost, but nowadays there is little difference in price. The limited availability of film for bulk loading is another drawback. For those who already own FILCA cassettes, or for those who use modern film in screw mount Leicas, trimming should not be a problem. There are much cheaper aftermarket alternatives to ABLON, including nail scissors - if one knows how to use them.

 

[Erik van Straten]

Thank you, dotur, I have some Leica 1a cameras, the oldest is no. 653X from 1928. The lens has a fine pictorial performance. The most important accessory for the camera is of course the Fodis rangefinder.

gelatin silver print (elmar 50mm f3.5) leica 1a (1928)

Dutch author Hans Heemsbergen (2019)

Erik.

 

[p.giannakis]

I've heard that sticking a 1p coin on the bottom plate bellow the film cassette pushes it up. Never tried it though

 

[Erik van Straten]

Strange thing is that on early pictures taken with Leicas the perforation never can be seen. I presume that almost never the whole negative was printed. Maybe people thought it was more artistic to make a cutout. Cartier-Bresson, I think, was one of the first Leica photographers who insisted on the premise that always the entire negative was printed.

Erik.

 

[dotur]

Thank you, dotur, I have some Leica 1a cameras, the oldest is no. 653X from 1928. The lens has a fine pictorial performance. The most important accessory for the camera is of course the Fodis rangefinder.

gelatin silver print (elmar 50mm f3.5) leica 1a (1928)

Dutch author Hans Heemsbergen (2019)

Erik.

View attachment 4820733

Erik, your silver gelatin print scans do have a special, emotional quality. Scanning the film has it's advantages, but scanned prints add more humane look. This portrait almost persuades me to try some silver printing again, after 30 years. And the rendering of your Elmar is astounding for such a difficult indoor backlit shot. Especially the tonal subtlety of the face combined with the impressive bokeh in the background. Congratulations!

PS: The traces of perforation at the bottom of your print somehow add spontaneity!

 

[dotur]

I've heard that sticking a 1p coin on the bottom plate bellow the film cassette pushes it up. Never tried it though

I've tried it once with a Croatian nickle, it did work!

 

[Erik van Straten]

Thank you, Dotur! Try split grade printing. In my view, scanning a negative is unsatisfactory. Negatives should be split grade printed on multigrade silver gelatine paper. Use a Focomat llc enlarger - this professional enlarger is fully equipped for split grade printing - and Ilford multigrade paper and filters.

Erik.

 

[dotur]

Strange thing is that on early pictures taken with Leicas the perforation never can be seen. I presume that almost never the whole negative was printed. Maybe people thought it was more artistic to make a cutout. Cartier-Bresson, I think, was one of the first Leica photographers who insisted that always the entire negative should be printed.

Erik.

May I be a bit blasphemous? As far as I know, Cartier-Bresson seldom printed his own photos. Hence the entire negative, to avoid quarrels with technicians ;-)

 

[dotur]

Thank you, Dotur! Try split grade printing. In my view, scanning a negative is unsatisfactory. Negatives should be split grade printed on multigrade silver gelatine paper. Use a Focomat llc enlarger - this professional enlarger is fully equipped for split grade printing - and Ilford multigrade paper and filters.

Erik.

Thanks for the advice, Erik. I still own a Durst Laborator 1200, it should be adequate.

 

[Erik van Straten]

May I be a bit blasphemous? As far as I know, Cartier-Bresson seldom printed his own photos. Hence the entire negative, to avoid quarrels with technicians ;-)

Yes, this is what I said, he insisted that the whole negatives were printed, also in his books. That was an artistic premise, not only to avoid problems with the printers.

Erik.

 

[Erik van Straten]

Thanks for the advice, Erik. I still own a Durst Laborator 1200, it should be adequate.

Of course, if it can perform split grade printing. You only need the Ilford filters 00 and 5.