PKR
Veteran
If your camera has a removable focusing screen or protective glass over the EVF, this may be a solution.
http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/Gridlines.html
Edit: from reading, it looks like they're out of business. There may be other people doing this work.
http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/Gridlines.html
Edit: from reading, it looks like they're out of business. There may be other people doing this work.
benlees
Well-known
Just get another camera. If you like lots of resolution get the Fuji- they seem to have large discounts quite regularly. If 20mp is good enough then go for M4/3.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Oren Grad
Well-known
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
There is a simple solution, made even simpler with the digital age:
1. Just concentrate on your subject and ignore the frame.
2. Crop appropriately in postprocessing.
Yes, I know this is obvious. But I think it’s more rewarding to concentrate on the subject primarily and crop later only if needed. Frames are artificial and are an artifact of the economics of film (and now sensor) manufacturing.
The only indispensable reason for tight cropping in the camera is if you’re contact printing a medium or large format image onto paper. Anything else can be cropped, if one really feels the need, on the easel or on the screen.
That said, I almost never crop - regardless of format. The subject dominates the image and I’ll crop only if there’s something distracting or detracting.
1. Just concentrate on your subject and ignore the frame.
2. Crop appropriately in postprocessing.
Yes, I know this is obvious. But I think it’s more rewarding to concentrate on the subject primarily and crop later only if needed. Frames are artificial and are an artifact of the economics of film (and now sensor) manufacturing.
The only indispensable reason for tight cropping in the camera is if you’re contact printing a medium or large format image onto paper. Anything else can be cropped, if one really feels the need, on the easel or on the screen.
That said, I almost never crop - regardless of format. The subject dominates the image and I’ll crop only if there’s something distracting or detracting.
nzeeman
Well-known
instead of ruining sensor with tape that will eventually start to bleed glue around why don't you get any dslr and tape the mirror?
j.scooter
Veteran
There are a bunch of 645 film cameras and shooting film is fun.
Just saying....
Just saying....
olakiril
Well-known
In the past with my D800 I had taped the LCD cover. Easy on, easy off.
I am pretty sure you can find a similar solution for A7rii like a magnetic base.
I am pretty sure you can find a similar solution for A7rii like a magnetic base.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
My SL2 allows me to change formats.
With 47.3 MP cropping the sensor and losing some data is not a big deal.
If I shoot the square, what I see in my VF'er is what I get, but once imported into LR I still have all the data of the 2x3.
In practice I tend to hold the SL2 vertically because later I can effectively use "rise" a a movement for perspective control.
Shooting the square on a SL2 is EZ-PZ.
Changing to your favored format should be equally as easy.
Cal
With 47.3 MP cropping the sensor and losing some data is not a big deal.
If I shoot the square, what I see in my VF'er is what I get, but once imported into LR I still have all the data of the 2x3.
In practice I tend to hold the SL2 vertically because later I can effectively use "rise" a a movement for perspective control.
Shooting the square on a SL2 is EZ-PZ.
Changing to your favored format should be equally as easy.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Rich,
I want to thank you for this post.
It reminded me of this capability I have, and how great it works.
In fact I think this will start a whole new body of work for me (shooting the square digitally).
Many thanks.
Cal
I want to thank you for this post.
It reminded me of this capability I have, and how great it works.
In fact I think this will start a whole new body of work for me (shooting the square digitally).
Many thanks.
Cal