D-72 as a film developer (not d-76)

blue4130

Well-known
Local time
8:02 PM
Joined
May 25, 2008
Messages
235
I've been using Chinese d-72 to develop both Lucky SHD-100 and Ilford HP5+ film. I usually mix up a batch in the morning and use it in the evening 1+1 dilution, dumping about half a bottle away.

The question, is it reasonable to expect it to last for two or three days for film development? It seems to oxidize and turn brown quite fast. I know that it is cheap at 60 cents a shot, but this financial crisis has me pinching every penny I can. If I can double my usage, that adds up in a big hurry.

And to all the naysayers, Yes, I am talking about d-72. Yes I know that it is most commonly used as a paper developer. No, I don't mean d-76.
 
It should keep - having said that, I have no idea of their formulation or the quality of the components. Keep the remainder in a full, airtight bottle and store it in the dark at a moderate temperature, then give it a try. That's the best way to find out for sure.

Where do you obtain this Chinese D72?

Marty
 
In China. More specifically, Xing Guan Photographic Mall in Shanghai on corner of Luban and Xietu Lu. Best place in town to get film and chemicals, or cameras for that matter.

d-72 for 60 cents
d-76 for 50 cents
36 Exp Lucky SHD100 for just over a dollar
36 Exp Ilford HP5+ for about $4
 
D72- Dektol's ancestor- was originally marketed as a "universal developer" in which both film and paper can be developed. But for film, it was the larger sheet formats and roll films which were in mind rather than miniature 35mm film.

D72 brings about snappy contrast, higher highlight densities, and coarser grain. These don't really matter much with larger film which make larger negatives which in turn are contact printed. However for 35mm negatives which are enlarged, higher contrast, more highlight densities, and coarse grain can be detrimental. Traditionally, softer gradation, low density highlights and finer grain are preferred for 35mm negatives.

In a snap, D72 should produce acceptable 35mm negatives for emergency work. 1 minute at 20C dilution 1+1 does the work for most types of film. You can dilute the develop with more water. Dilutions from 1+9 to 1+20 can be used, with developing times ranging from 3 - 10 minutes or so. You'd have to make some tests to determine the actual times. With higher dilutions, the contrast can be tamed a bit so "softer" negatives can be obtained. HIgher dilution can also make your D72 develop more films.

We used D72 (local version) for film a lot when we were in school. But we never used it at 1+1, the dilution was always higher.

I wouldn't really develop Luckypan in D72. As it is, the film already has higher inherent contrast so developing it in proper film developer should be the order.
 
Because of the characteristics of D-72. It is a high contrast grainy developer that works for the type of images that I am making.

I do use D-76 for much of my work, but I have one set that I want a different look from. Just trying to stand out from the crowd a little 🙂

Err, should have looked at my notes before posting. I am using it at 1:2 dilution for 6.5 minutes at 20 degrees.
 
Last edited:
times

times

When you push trx400 to 1600 and using paperdev. do you also need to develop for like 1/3 of the time more?

like:
trx400 - 6,5 min in d-76 (stock)
trx1600 - 9,5 min in d-76

trx400 - 2min in d-72 (stock) (or other paperdeveloper)
trx1600 - 3min in d-72 (stock) (or other paperdeveloper)

thanks
 
I used to develop Kodak Recording 2475 and Royal X Pan in Dektol (D72). I used t do industrial shots for heavy industry (pulp/paper, newsprint, oil.gas etc). These were often cast concrete and the clients wanted it to look like concrete - not smooth plastic!
With 2475 I rated it at 2500 iso - Dektol 1:1/10 minutes and the Royal X Pan (120) it was rated at 1600-2000 and Dektol 1:1/12-15 min.
You get a limited tonal scale, shadows go solid black (almost graphic arts look), mid-tones are pretty good, high lights a bit fried). Grain is intrusive, to say the least - at least with 35mm film. The aggregate in the concrete looked like embedded golf-balls!!
Later I tried it with Tmax 3200 and Neopan 1600. Grain is inherently finer in these films so the effect is less pronounced - but it works. Cant remember the times for that though - so test.
As for storing it - paper developer are not generally designed for storage and will oxidize quickly. Mix up the developer and pour what is not being used into tightly stoppered bottles - filled to the top and it will probably last for several days - though I haven't tried that (I usually dumped it after a run).
Never tried it with higher dilutions - should shoot some TriX/Arista and see what comes out of it!
As stated before, in the early days developer like D72 and even Rodinal were considered "universal" and recommended for both film and paper. However. in those days film was slow, negative size was larger (pre-35mm) so the aggressive grain was less of a problem.
When 35 mm film become popular, the film manufacturers started to modify movie film developers for longer tonal range and softer grain (Captaff's D76 from 1926) and there was a 'division" between paper and film developers.
However. the Dektol still gives a rather unique look and it has its use for a distinct image. OK easy to focus in the enlarger too - who needs a grain magnifier with this stuff!!
Oh. I like the prices of the "Made in China" D76/D72 too!!!!!!
 
Back
Top Bottom