D76, Tri-X help requested

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Wenge

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I've never done this combo, and tried searching the board here and didn't find anything for times/agitation (maybe a glitch).

Mamiya 1000s +80/2.8 my old standby..(used to use Rodinal)
 
...(maybe a glitch).
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I know what you mean.

Search results for query: Tri-X and D76​

The following words were not included in your search because they are too short, too long, or too common: X, and
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I had to use a search engine to find these:

Here a few with some helpful tidbits:

400 Tri-X in D76

Tomorrow I will be developing two rolls of 400 Tri-X in D76 at the same time for my high school B&W film photography class. Its the first time I have developed in a while. Does anyone have a good developing time, stop time, and fix time that I can go by? I am not sure which dilution my teacher...
rangefinderforum.com rangefinderforum.com

What am I doing wrong? (tri=x and d-76)

I use Tri-X and D-76 quite often and don't feel that I get excessive grain. This was on Tri-X and developed in D-76 1:1 (I like the results better with 1:1, I feel like there is less grain -- maybe I am seeing things?) and not much post-processing though I did use a quadtone. (let's hope...
rangefinderforum.com rangefinderforum.com
 
In my experience anytime I look up something on the Massive Development chart the information given is the same as the manufacturer’s
 
Freakscene said:
I'd trust Kodak a great deal more than the unvalidated user generated randomness of the MDC.
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Interesting to see how MDC is opposite to the apparent consensus of developing film in regard to final wash and photo-flo.

Try using the MDC timer when photo-flo should be the last thing you do.🤷🏼‍♂️

I find following Tom A’s tried and true protocols the best for me.

IMG_3910.png
 
B&W film development is a matter of personal interpretation, almost purely, and all suggestions - even Kodak's - presuppose a specific printing technique and "look", and so are really just good as starting points for you you discover your own criteria. The film manufacturer's recommendation, especially with a developer which they also make, would be my first step, you are guaranteed usable, even if not ideal images.

If you want to learn how to control development to make the images look the way you want, check out Ansel Adams book The Negative. It's small, uncomplicated, written for beginners, and will probably answer any question about developing film you are ever likely to have.

The Negative by Ansel Adams: Books - AbeBooks

THE NEGATIVE - EXPOSURE AND DEVELOPMENT; Basic Photo 2 by Adams, Ansel and a great selection of related books, art and collectibles available now at AbeBooks.com.
www.abebooks.com
 
MISH said:
In my experience anytime I look up something on the Massive Development chart the information given is the same as the manufacturer’s
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Since they opened it to user input it’s got some really crazy stuff in there. The problem is when you don’t know, you don’t know (which is which).
 
It doesn't need to be complicated. Start by shooting at box speed, 400. Develop in D-76 1:1 for 10 minutes. Agitate gently 10 inversions per minute. Use stop bath and fix. Adjust development time on subsequent rolls until negatives print with the density & contrast you want. Adjust exposure index until you see the shadow detail you want. Experiment and make adjustments to your taste.
 
Freakscene said:
Since they opened it to user input it’s got some really crazy stuff in there. The problem is when you don’t know, you don’t know (which is which).
Click to expand...
I recently found this with Rollei Retro 400S. The recommended time from the MDC for LC29 1+19 is 12 minutes, and I blindly followed it for the first test roll. The negs were totally blown out... turns out the actual recommended time from Rollei's datasheet for that combo is 6:30!

dave lackey said:
I find following Tom A’s tried and true protocols the best for me.
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The 20 minutes of rinsing is a bit unnecessary. Ilford recommends a different protocol: fill tank with clean water, invert 5 times, dump. Refill, invert 10 times, dump it out. Refill a third time, invert 15 times, dump it out.

Apparently that leaves zero residual fixer on the negatives and uses far less water. I usually change it to a four step process with 10/10/15/20 inversions just to be safe, but it's still a lot less wasted water than the classic running water method.
 
AS in #15, this is spot on data. Every other place is unverified or people use questionable water or methods like presoak.

Alaris/Kodak data is based on proper testing for stock, 1:1 is calculated from that and is accurate. It is a contrast index time for a diffusion enlarger: subtract 10% for condenser.

D76 requires care.I mix 1 liter from raw chems. 6 month life in FULL stoppered bottles after which it slowly goes inactive. Confirmed by my tests. Supposedly 6 weeks in half full bottle. Nonsense. Never worked for me. I mix and decant to 4 oz bottles and mix 1:1 just before use. You probably will purchase the premix gallon package. Fill 3 quart bottles, and 7 or 8 4 oz ones unless you have 30 small ones. Proper 4 oz one are sold on EBAY. Just bought some for my son. Dry bottle top and seal area before capping or you will break cap on opening. Allow to rest 24 hours after mixing for it to work properly. No ice cubes, no refrigerator. Please do not ask how I learned.

Nice developer but old formula. Chemicals are easy to buy.
 
Ronald M said:
Allow to rest 24 hours after mixing for it to work properly.
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This is spot on and not in Kodak’s datasheet. D-76 becomes more alkaline and therefore more active for about 24h after mixing. Either mix and use right away, or leave it 24h. Not either/or. It’s one of the reasons I prefer Xtol.
 
Ronald M said:
No ice cubes, no refrigerator. Please do not ask how I learned.
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LOL, I learned that as well along with small glass bottles for storage...I also use marbles to displace the airgap in 1 L bottles, it does make a difference. As for times, well 1:1, 10 minutes, 68F at 400 is the standard start time but my experience with a non commercial formula had much longer times and lower speeds for the same CI, so it's important to understand what formula is being used when looking at the data.
 
Saganich said:
LOL, I learned that as well along with small glass bottles for storage...I also use marbles to displace the airgap in 1 L bottles, it does make a difference. As for times, well 1:1, 10 minutes, 68F at 400 is the standard start time but my experience with a non commercial formula had much longer times and lower speeds for the same CI, so it's important to understand what formula is being used when looking at the data.
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My formula is same as Kodak. 2 metal/elon 100 sodium sulfite 5 hydroquinone 2 borax dissolved in750 ml of water at 120 deg F. 2,100,5,2 are grams. bring up volume to 1000 ml or 1 liter.

Your time is close to mine. I would have to find my data. I am starting to love split filter printing with this, high & low and sometimes need a medium of results look weird. I have never found the big developing time data anywhere near correct.
 
Ronald M said:
My formula is same as Kodak. 2 metal/elon 100 sodium sulfite 5 hydroquinone 2 borax dissolved in750 ml of water at 120 deg F. 2,100,5,2 are grams. bring up volume to 1000 ml or 1 liter.

Your time is close to mine. I would have to find my data. I am starting to love split filter printing with this, high & low and sometimes need a medium of results look weird. I have never found the big developing time data anywhere near correct.
Click to expand...
This is the ‘classic’ D-76 from 1928. One if the problems with discussing D-76 times is that this is not what is in a pouch of Kodak Alaris D-76. It behaves similarly, but not identically. They have buffered the alkali more than the buffering capacity of 2g of borax. This us why I recommend to start with Kodak’s time and adjust.
 
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