Dark Negatives When Developing C41 As B/W

MDenton

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I have just started processing C41 as B/W.
Whilst the negatives are scannable,they are very dark,and I assume this is because of the C41 colour mask ?
I double the normal fixing time,but has anyone got any other suggestions to 'lighten' up the results ?
 
Being dark, in my experience, was an advantage. My scanner was less prone to overexposing and clipping when processing C41 like B&W.

However I can't really answer your question, I'm not sure how to get rid of whatever color gunk is left.
 
I have just started processing C41 as B/W.
Whilst the negatives are scannable,they are very dark,and I assume this is because of the C41 colour mask ?
I double the normal fixing time,but has anyone got any other suggestions to 'lighten' up the results ?

Yes, this is because of the C41 colour mask. I had the same problem.
 
What Developer are you using?

I have been researching the last few days... Seems like HC110 for HP5 at 400 (B or H) is good for any Color 400 film from the MDC App. [11m --HC110 H-- I'd use 10ml to 590ml water for easy measuring.. 1:60]

I haven't tried it yet, but, I do have 6 rolls of Color 400 film, 2 UltraMax, and 4 Walgreens (GAF or 3M maybe?)

When scanning, did you try scanning as a 16bit B&W scan to avoid the orange mask color tint?

Have you fine tuned your workflow for better results since the 1st post?
If yes, what worked for you?
 
Had the same issue too, I accidentally developed Ektar 100 in HC-110B for 5 minutes. ^^

Even had some trouble getting good scans from those, because they were quite thick.
 
Had the same issue too, I accidentally developed Ektar 100 in HC-110B for 5 minutes. ^^

Even had some trouble getting good scans from those, because they were quite thick.

9min is listed in the MDC app for 400 films and HC110b
I think a test is needed. a few rolls developed at 9m/11m/14m but, I have no idea if ISO 100 or 200 color films needs less time from 400 color films.. maybe not?

I don't think color film reacts the same as B&W film with different developing times. Isn't C41 a set D/time for all speeds. It may cross over to using B&W chems.
So, do a few tests on cheap 12x rolls to see what D/time works best.
Just a thought.
 
I googled around and the consensus seem to be that the simple fixer we use in B&W isn't sufficient to get rid of the base-fog on c-41 films.
If one use a regular c-41 blix/bleach-fix instead, the results can even be printable in the darkroom.

So the lack of a bleach-process is the reason behind the dark negatives. :)
 
I googled around and the consensus seem to be that the simple fixer we use in B&W isn't sufficient to get rid of the base-fog on c-41 films.
If one use a regular c-41 blix/bleach-fix instead, the results can even be printable in the darkroom.

So the lack of a bleach-process is the reason behind the dark negatives. :)

So, develop and Stop as regular BW workflow, and fix in Blix/bleach-fix.
 
I have just started processing C41 as B/W.
Whilst the negatives are scannable,they are very dark,and I assume this is because of the C41 colour mask ?
I double the normal fixing time,but has anyone got any other suggestions to 'lighten' up the results ?

Use normal developing for color and then convert the scans to b&w.
 
For us on a tight budget, where bulk B&W is not an option, $2.00 color film or less is an option. Color chemicals are more per roll than a bottle of HC110, for example.

It isn't the ease of color developing than scanning to B&W, it is trying to keep the cost down.

Send from my Galaxy S5 using Tapatalk
 
Color C-41 chemicals can be very cheap. Often cheaper then an expensive B&W developer, however R09/Rodinal or HC-110 are the cheapest commercial B&W developers you can buy worldwide. I have in offer Fuji Superia 100 C-41 135-24 for Eur. 1,79. (Euro -US$ is 1,1 at the moment).

I you want to make the effort of making your (B&W or color-) chemicals yourself it is even 10x cheaper then R09/Rodinal or HC-110 whatever you are making yourself.
 
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