Delta 400 price vs Tmax 400

I think it's all been said, delta 400 doesn't have the resolution of tmy-2, and if you don't have any specific reasons, might as well to for what's cheaper.
If like to hear your thoughts about why you want a straight curve for gloomy winter skies. Are you prepared to do a lot of burning the skies in? Because IMHO that's the main thing with straight lines, they give you lots of material for dodging and burning, but you have to dodge and burn more than with an s-curve or you get the flat looking mid tones that some complain about with the designer grain films. Because the very highlights and deep shadows simply end up further away from the mid tones on the curve, and to get them all on paper without much d&b will require a softer grade, compared to a film with an s-curve.
I think (no densitomer, just theory and casual observation) I can bend the curve down in the highlights with dilute developer and reduced agitation though, so these films are very flexible.
 
retinax said:
Are you prepared to do a lot of burning the skies in? Because IMHO that's the main thing with straight lines, they give you lots of material for dodging and burning, but you have to dodge and burn more than with an s-curve or you get the flat looking mid tones that some complain about with the designer grain films.
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Split grade printing. No burning or dodging necessary. Invented in the fifties by Pictorial Service in Paris.

There should be a possibility in Photoshop to create split grade printing digitally. Maybe it exists, I don't know. I do it with the Ilford filters 00 and 5 on Adox MCC 110 paper.

To get a digital file I simply scan the print.

Erik.
 
Whoa - I didn't know that a roll of 135-36 black and white film is currently almost $13.00 USD in Australia. You all have my condolences.

My advise, try a couple rolls of TMY-2. Then see if you like it.
 
Erik van Straten said:
Split grade printing. No burning or dodging necessary. Invented in the fifties by Pictorial Service in Paris.

There should be a possibility in Photoshop to create split grade printing digitally. Maybe it exists, I don't know. I do it with the Ilford filters 00 and 5 on Adox MCC 110 paper.

To get a digital file I simply scan the print.

Erik.
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Yes I think when split-grade printing, the soft exposure makes sure that no highlights get blown. Pre-flashing the paper is another useful tool in the box here. Both comes at the expense of soft contrast in the highlights, how else, the excess contrast needs to go somewhere. A film/dev regime with stronger highlight roll-off has that built in, but burning in from these negs will only allow you to bring the soft contrast from the shoulder down to printable range. If one wants more contrast in the highlights and/or the burnt in areas, dodging and burning from a straight line negative it is.
 
Not really used a lot of Delta. Have use a bit of Tri-X. While it does have its place, I think TMY-2 is probably the best B&W film ever.
 
retinax said:
Yes I think when split-grade printing, the soft exposure makes sure that no highlights get blown. Pre-flashing the paper is another useful tool in the box here. Both comes at the expense of soft contrast in the highlights, how else, the excess contrast needs to go somewhere. A film/dev regime with stronger highlight roll-off has that built in, but burning in from these negs will only allow you to bring the soft contrast from the shoulder down to printable range. If one wants more contrast in the highlights and/or the burnt in areas, dodging and burning from a straight line negative it is.
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There are so many possibilities with split grade printing, you can burn in the high lights with the hard filter if you like. There is no end to it. Fascinating, really.


Erik.
 
I actually started using split grade printing after I got a Bessemer universal 45 w VC controller for dirt cheap. Lambrechts book also has good sections on contrast control. The VC controller makes it very simple and easy to fine tune because I can dial in ANY grade in .1 increments if I want to.
 
Ccoppola82 said:
I actually started using split grade printing after I got a Bessemer universal 45 w VC controller for dirt cheap. Lambrechts book also has good sections on contrast control. The VC controller makes it very simple and easy to fine tune because I can dial in ANY grade in .1 increments if I want to.
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Yes, but you only need two filters: 00 and 5. There are two exposures, usually a long one with the 00 to control the highlights and a short one with the 5 to determine the deep blacks. This way of printing needs a lot of test exposures, but is very rewarding because you can get a professional quality print of practically every negative, old or new and good or bad.


Erik.


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Solinar said:
Whoa - I didn't know that a roll of 135-36 black and white film is currently almost $13.00 USD in Australia. You all have my condolences.
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I recently traveled to Australia and ran out of film. Prices were so astronomical I couldn't afford to buy Tri-X there. I ended up getting some rolls of 24 Kodak Gold just to have something to shoot with but I think even that was about double what 36 Portra 400 would cost me here.
 
olifaunt said:
I recently traveled to Australia and ran out of film. Prices were so astronomical I couldn't afford to buy Tri-X there. I ended up getting some rolls of 24 Kodak Gold just to have something to shoot with but I think even that was about double what 36 Portra 400 would cost me here.
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There's considerable difference in prices in Aus depending where you shop. The best (legitimate) Australian online stores have prices a little higher but comparable to the US. But if you walk into a Camera House on main street you'll easily find yourself paying $20aud for a roll of Portra :eek:
 
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