developing 120

robert blu

robert blu

quiet photographer
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Since a few month, after 30 years, I deveolp myself my 35mm B&W neg.
I'm satisfied with my actual process. Now I received from a friend as present 15 B&W film (delta 400, the same I shoot in 35mm) format 120, which I would like to shoot with my Holga and my Rolleiflex. Just asking if (beside quantity of products to fill the tank of course) I should care for any difference between developping 35mm and 120 film ?
Thanks for any answer, regards
robert
 
You can develop it the same way that you do 35mm. Just be sure to have enough active developer in the mix for the extra area of the film. For example, whenever I develop 120 film in Rodinal 1:50, I use 500ml of working solution.
 
I find loading 120 onto reels easier than 35mm. Obviously you'll be using more developer, stop bath and fix so be aware that fill/drain times will be longer.

Jim B.
 
Give yourself more time for feeding the film onto the reel. Depends on the type of reel and your practice level, of course. I use a Paterson reel and find it much easier to use with 35mm than 120, which flexes more and has no sprocket holes to engage with the steel balls.
 
Thanks for all the answer. I think that the real problematic step could be loading the film in the reel. I'll sacrfice an expired old film (I have some very very very...old ones somewhere) to practice this a little before to do the real one. Grazie, thanks
robert
 
developing 120

A 120 reel is a little smaller than two 35mm reels, and I find them easier to load because there is no fussing with cutting ends in the dark, just unroll the film from the paper, pull the tape free and double the tape back over the end of the film. With steel reels, be careful centering the film when you start and loading the rest will be easy and quick. If you've been developing 35mm for several months you've learned what you need to know.

If you need to get one or two 120 reels to develop with, be careful. The best deal is to find some used reels that you can inspect for nice big wires and very light welds that do not fill in the spaces between the windings. Also check that the top and bottom of each reel are parallel. The cheapest mail order (B&H, etc) reels do not pass these tests, and will ruin film.

Finally, have you picked your style of agitation and checked that you are not over- or under-doing it (look for uneven development from edge to edge), so that you can stick to it and get reliable developing times?

I had a b/w diarkroom for 15 years, disposed of it, went back to film some of the time in just the past year, and these are the lessons I have relearned that seem most obvious.

scott
 
Some people prefer (a) slightly more exposure and (b) slightly more development with 120. The penalties in reduced sharpness and bigger grain are far less important with 120. Sorry to disagree with Krzys but I know of no theoretical or practical advantage to pre-soaking. If you do it with 35, stick with it. Of you don't, don't take it up now.

Addendum: I find 35mm reels a lot easier to load than 120, so it must be quite personal.

Cheers,

R.
 
Next week I'll be travelling a lot, so no time for experiemnts! Next weekend I'll try to load and foind out myself if easier or not compared to 35mm !
Yes, I have found fot the film I use (delta 100 or 400) appropriate time/temperature/agitation, at least according to my taste. Of course using different camera it is possible the exposure could be different and will require further adjustement in the develop parameters. Thanks again for all the answer and suggestions
robert
 
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