From what I have read, Arista 400 is a.k.a TriX 400...so what is Arista 100?
Run a search here. From what I recall, one sticky in the film developing forum reveals all the Arista secret identities.
From online search, I found out that I need to process TriX 400 at 65 F in D76 for 8 minutes...how do I process Arista 100?
If you download the factsheet from Freestyle, or look it up at the Massive Development Chart, you'll get the information about this particular film and it's times with several developers.
What is the difference between D76 and D76 (1:1)?
When people say they used D76 at 1:1, that means 1 part of straight, undiluted developer, and one part of water. In other words, it's watered down. I think it's done by thrifty photographers. The problem is that you may have to double the time it takes in the developer. IOW, if using straight D76 it takes 7 minutes to develop a roll of, say, HP4 film, with a 1:1 solution it may take 14. There are some advantages to this in terms of results (wider dynamic range, probably, I read it a long time ago... ) but I never did it.
I haven't bought any stuff yet, planning to buy from a local store today/tomorrow? I just read a while ago that one should start with D76 (easy to learn?), if you feel otherwise please let me know as I can buy something else too.
I started with D76, just like a lot of people, because it's cheap, easy to use and available all over the place. Besides, in its original powder form it seems to have a very long shelf life. However, I soon got tired of having to mix the powder with water, taking all precautions not to poison anything, and then finding out that once mixed it takes about 2 or 3 months to die. I don't develop that much or that often, so I switched to a developer that comes in liquid form, and then I only use what I need: T-Max developer, by Kodak.
How important is stop bath and clearing agent (for wash)?
Very. The stop bath makes the developing process stop. The Hypoclearing bath saves time and water. Without it, you'd have to wash the film for about 25 minutes. If you like that, be my guest. I got so used to the HCA that I wouldn't even think about NOT using it. Besides, from what I have read here and elsewhere, it contributes to clean the film even further.
I will really appreciate if someone can briefly outline the steps etc. (don't worry about loading film onto the reel).
This is what I do. We'll skip the film in the reel stage and start with the film already in the developing tank. BTW, buy plastic reels and tanks. They're easier to spool film in. Get the metal type later.
1) I place my chemicals on the counter or work surface, in the order they'll be used: developer, stop bath, fixer, HCA (hypo-clearing agent) and Photo-flo solution.
2) Pour developer into tank, start timer. Agitate (or rather slowly turn) tank upside down and back within the first 30 seconds. Then, do the same for the first 10 seconds of every minute. I use a timer to keep track of times.
3) Discard developer. Rinse film with water, discard water, pour in stop bath. Agitate or swish for about 30 seconds, in a delicate fashion, but not as delicate as when you develop.
4) Return Stop bath to bottle (it can be reused) and rinse film with water again. Then add fixer and treat it as if you were developing the film again in terms of movements and times... You may need less time than developing (it should be the case).
5) Once done, pour fixer back in bottle (it also can be reused). Rinse film with water. You can peek in if you feel like; film is no longer photosensitive now.
6) Pour in your HCA and swish it around for about 30 seconds. Discard.
7) Rinse film again... and continue doing so for about 5 minutes. There is a way recommended by Ilford and I'm sure someone will tell you about it. Basically, fill tank with water, swirl it around, empty tank, refill... and repeat the process for 5 minutes.
8) Dump water from last bath, open tank, pour in Photo-flo solution, let film rest in it for a minute. Get your hooks or whatever things you have ready to hang film to dry. This is when I run hot water in the shower in the downstairs bathroom, so that the steam picks or catches any dust floating in the air.
9) Get your film delicately out of the reels. Here there's a number of philosophies: those who hang the film, those who use a squeegee, those who use a sponge. I use a sponge dipped in the Photo-flo solution, then squeezed, to pick up the solution and help film dry faster. Then, with clips on both ends of my film strip, I hang it to dry in that particular shower. It's usually ready to scan in an hour and a half... but then it also begins to curl. This can be corrected by storing it in a film sleeve and then putting it in between the pages of a thick book... or just with time.
I hope this helps!
🙂 And I hope others chime in with their steps and corrections.
Good luck and take care!
