Development of film .....

[kaiyen]

But Ray, isn't that the best way to dry negs? I just take them out of the reel, and dangle tem down from my hand while I run around the house. Good exercise, and adds this nice texture to the image. Some call it dust. Others call it texture. 🙂

But excellent point - there is a minimum you need, and there is what I'd recommend. As you can see on my website, I also recommend a hype-clearing agent or Permawash, and I do recommend the photo-flo. And you need to put some time into the drying phase. If you got a shower handy in a bathroom that you can close off for a few hours then you're set. But if you (like me) don't, then there are other options, too.

allan

 

[titrisol]

Development, like any other chemical process is temperature sensitive reaction rates are increased by temperature. So if you ar elike me summer and winter water temperature will be different and you'll have to compensate for those.
Color film development is possible but is a PITA and is expensive if you ar enot doing enough film to justify buying those chemicals. For XP2 I have settled with $2.50 development only at wolf camera and then scan or print the negatives, for color they do a great job.

As per chemicals I wouldn't skimp on Photo-flo but LFN is much better.
A list of what you need is:
Developer: D76 or clones can last up to 1 year in smaller bottles full to the brim and tightly closed and stored in a dark cool place. Some people have reported 3 or 4 years but that is a atrectch.
HC110 or Rodinal will last easily 8-10 years in the concentrate bottle if not more
Ilfosol S and DDX should last about 6 months. Form my own experience 6 months is a half open bottle is realistic for DDX.

Fixer: any rapid fixer will do, just have an extra 1l bottle for making working solution (peroxide bottles are excellent, rinse them several times and leave them open to dry)

LFN just add a drop or 2 in the last rinse
BUT you can also use distilled water for those last 2 rinses and eliminate water spots