Strictly analogue mechanicals - serviced if possible, from the 50's - 70's. I have a growing old (mostly) Timex collection. My favorite watch is a serviced Timex I paid $1.00 plus $5.00 shipping. They must have a large face, have a clean uncluttered (boring?) design, it must be thin (unlike the giant clunkers of today), and I highly prefer a date complication. I try to spend less than $15 - with shipping, for each one. Collecting them is fun and affordable.
These watches are something of a political "fashion statement" for me. Apart from having 1000x more character than the "character-less" crap quartz junk watches out now...
... Timex in their heyday were made in the USA and they gave a hearty "middle finger" to the disgusting conspicuous consumption items of ridiculous self-adornment made by the elitist european watch companies by making "disposable" watches that lasted for decades. They had no jewels* and were designed to be functional items the average working stiff could afford and enjoy.
We live in a wasteful society. There's no reason to buy a new watch. My worst Timex gains a minute a day - BFD. They're eco-friendly, have a bit of history behind them and are "anti" self-adornment, "anti" conspicuous consumption, "anti" elitist items made by domestic craftsmen. And, yes, I like the intriguing ingenious mechanical engineering marvels... tick, tick, tick... and the tactile "feel" of winding a watch.
That's my "fashion statement". And that's why I wear them.
*(The watch "jewel" thing taught the digital camera makers of today how to sucker the ignorant public. How many "jewels" does you watch have? - looks down nose - sneers, only 17? Mine has 21... lol. Juxtapose. How many "megapixels" does your camera have?)