Issy
Well-known
Good question.
Appearently "hosed" during one of the upgrades.
"hosed" -- American Slang, adj. trashed, broken, lost, destroyed
Appearently "hosed" during one of the upgrades.
"hosed" -- American Slang, adj. trashed, broken, lost, destroyed
pvdhaar
Peter
The images got wiped without notification, so I hadn't thought about keeping a copy on my PC. Sadly, this means I don't have the original ones anymore..
rxmd
May contain traces of nut
They got wiped when older pictures were removed from the gallery to make room. At the point nobody thought of how people had been using the gallery for the illustrations in some of the technical and repair threads. There were several threads that were affected by this.
I guess you'll have to recalibrate your Hexar RFso I hadn't thought about keeping a copy on my PC. Sadly, this means I don't have the original ones anymore..
Philipp
Arjay
Time Traveller
Thank you for this interesting and helpful thread!
My Hexar seems to have an added, odd problem:
While horizontal alignment seems to be ok, there is a slight vertical error - AND an additional problem.
Vertical lines in the normal (large) RF window and the small (superimposed, movable) window don't seem to be parallel. And if I try to focus on a cross shaped structure, then the cross in the superimposed window doesn't just move horizontally, but slightly diagonally (from near limit to infinity with a shift from bottom left to top right).
Any ideas how I could change that?
Edit: Hm - this comment seems to be a consequence of me not having fully understood the camera's rangefinder principle. If the camera is looking at lines that aren't parallel to the camera's film plane, then the lines in the two superimposed windows can't be parallel. The discrepancy becomes more obvious, the closer the lines are to the film plane.
Consequence: There's not much wrong with my camera, at least not anything weird. It just has a little vertical misalignment. *sighs with relief*
My Hexar seems to have an added, odd problem:
While horizontal alignment seems to be ok, there is a slight vertical error - AND an additional problem.
Vertical lines in the normal (large) RF window and the small (superimposed, movable) window don't seem to be parallel. And if I try to focus on a cross shaped structure, then the cross in the superimposed window doesn't just move horizontally, but slightly diagonally (from near limit to infinity with a shift from bottom left to top right).
Any ideas how I could change that?
Edit: Hm - this comment seems to be a consequence of me not having fully understood the camera's rangefinder principle. If the camera is looking at lines that aren't parallel to the camera's film plane, then the lines in the two superimposed windows can't be parallel. The discrepancy becomes more obvious, the closer the lines are to the film plane.
Consequence: There's not much wrong with my camera, at least not anything weird. It just has a little vertical misalignment. *sighs with relief*
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kev.yong
Member
Thanks for this useful thread.
My RF arrived with vertical mis-alignment. The patch was too low.
I took off the top plate and removed the wax off the adjustment wheel as per the instructions. It took several full turns of the wheel (forwards) to get the patch close to centred but I couldn't quite get it there - still annoyingly mis-aligned. There was a 'best point' after which turning in both directions resulted in the patch moving down again.
The wheel was very difficult to turn. The whole plate that it is attached to was moving even with slight pressure. IS this what others have experienced. I was really worried I was going to bend something.
The horizontal alignment seems good. I'm developing a test roll today but I might have to live with the vertical problem unless someone has some other suggestions.
My RF arrived with vertical mis-alignment. The patch was too low.
I took off the top plate and removed the wax off the adjustment wheel as per the instructions. It took several full turns of the wheel (forwards) to get the patch close to centred but I couldn't quite get it there - still annoyingly mis-aligned. There was a 'best point' after which turning in both directions resulted in the patch moving down again.
The wheel was very difficult to turn. The whole plate that it is attached to was moving even with slight pressure. IS this what others have experienced. I was really worried I was going to bend something.
The horizontal alignment seems good. I'm developing a test roll today but I might have to live with the vertical problem unless someone has some other suggestions.
Krosya
Konicaze
You shouldnt have to turn that wheel so much. I wonder is something else got misaligned while you did that. Usually it is just a fine hair turn of the wheel that should bring things in correct position. Pressing down and turning too much can actually ruin entire RF system in the camera. Have to be careful as it as a delicate part of the camera. Hope you didnt damage it beyond repair . Good luck!
kev.yong
Member
Thanks Krosya,
I'm just waiting for a film back from the lab. Hopefully I haven't wrecked it. It seems to focusing to the right distance. Just the vertical is still out a bit but I can live with that.
Have you ever heard of a problem with the shutter speed numbers going to sleep and having to turn on and off to get them back on? any suggestions .... see this thread.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1252841#post1252841
I'm just waiting for a film back from the lab. Hopefully I haven't wrecked it. It seems to focusing to the right distance. Just the vertical is still out a bit but I can live with that.
Have you ever heard of a problem with the shutter speed numbers going to sleep and having to turn on and off to get them back on? any suggestions .... see this thread.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1252841#post1252841
Issy
Well-known
only one revolution should be needed
only one revolution should be needed
The vertical alignment wheel has a small lens or glass mounted in its center (in the patch path), but mounted slightly off-center... as you turn the wheel, you are effectively moving the lens up and down, so a full rotation moves it though its range twice.... no need to turn it more than once. This also means that turning it also moves it left and right the same way, the same distance, so any change in vertical impacts horizontal -- that's why they have you do vertical first.
(see item #30, this thread).
I have one Hexar RF that both the vertical and horizontal alignments are right at the edge of their travel. I am not sure what I will do if it goes any further out of alignment. Also note, the horizontal alignment screw is brass, and has a wide screwdriver slot... if you mess with it too much, it is very easy to damage the screw.
I am keeping my eyes open for a broken HEXAR RF that I can pick up cheap and "play" with and try to unlock the secrets of the alignment process. Anyone have one?
I should point out to all of you that the images in note #30 are the only ones in the service manual with regard to patch alignment.... I am not holding anything back. There are five pages on how to temp compensate the shutter speeds, and a paragraph on alignment. :bang:
Bill
only one revolution should be needed
The vertical alignment wheel has a small lens or glass mounted in its center (in the patch path), but mounted slightly off-center... as you turn the wheel, you are effectively moving the lens up and down, so a full rotation moves it though its range twice.... no need to turn it more than once. This also means that turning it also moves it left and right the same way, the same distance, so any change in vertical impacts horizontal -- that's why they have you do vertical first.
(see item #30, this thread).
I have one Hexar RF that both the vertical and horizontal alignments are right at the edge of their travel. I am not sure what I will do if it goes any further out of alignment. Also note, the horizontal alignment screw is brass, and has a wide screwdriver slot... if you mess with it too much, it is very easy to damage the screw.
I am keeping my eyes open for a broken HEXAR RF that I can pick up cheap and "play" with and try to unlock the secrets of the alignment process. Anyone have one?
I should point out to all of you that the images in note #30 are the only ones in the service manual with regard to patch alignment.... I am not holding anything back. There are five pages on how to temp compensate the shutter speeds, and a paragraph on alignment. :bang:
Bill
Issy
Well-known
I should also point out to everyone that the metal piece that this lens is mounted on (the vertical alignment lens) sits on two small ball bearings. There are small dimples in the metal to hold them in place... so, you need to be really careful when you turn the wheel that you don't lift up one side or the other of the wheel mount, and risk losing the small metal balls.
Issy
Well-known
A few other things to check...
A few other things to check...
After playing with this over the weekend, a few other things to check if you are having alignment problems and you decide to "pop the top":
1. Is the RF "platform" itself secure? This is basically a little "optical bench" secured down to the camera body. Most screws are on the perimeter, there is one more under the grip material left of the lens mount.
2. Is the RF glass secure? There is one composite piece in the viewfinder, next to the eye piece. There is a second convex lens, next to it. And there is a long, rectangular beveled piece that sets up the patch image. Make sure these are secure; some are held in place with metal bands and screws, others by glue or "tacky stuff" alone.
3. Does the vertical wheel platform look level, looking straight on. I'm pretty sure the two dimples that form a triangle with the horizontal set screw have some small ball bearings under them, to form a 3 point stand... is one missing?
A few other things to check...
After playing with this over the weekend, a few other things to check if you are having alignment problems and you decide to "pop the top":
1. Is the RF "platform" itself secure? This is basically a little "optical bench" secured down to the camera body. Most screws are on the perimeter, there is one more under the grip material left of the lens mount.
2. Is the RF glass secure? There is one composite piece in the viewfinder, next to the eye piece. There is a second convex lens, next to it. And there is a long, rectangular beveled piece that sets up the patch image. Make sure these are secure; some are held in place with metal bands and screws, others by glue or "tacky stuff" alone.
3. Does the vertical wheel platform look level, looking straight on. I'm pretty sure the two dimples that form a triangle with the horizontal set screw have some small ball bearings under them, to form a 3 point stand... is one missing?
user237428934
User deletion pending
Puh. A DIY solution is not for me. So does someone know a shop in Europe (better in Germany) where they repair a misaligned viewfinder of a Hexar RF
Arjay
Time Traveller
Take a look at my message in another thread.
I recently also received another recommendation for a Konica repair technician in Munich, which I can't back by any experience of my own (YMMV): Reiner Muchel, Agnesstr. 18 in Munich, Tel +49 (0)89 - 2727 3489.
Could you please give us some feedback of your experiences in the thread I linked to above, so that we can all benefit from the outcome?
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shambla
Member
Yeah that would be superb, unless of course it is a ridiculous number of pages and would take hours to scan.
dct
perpetual amateur
Sadly, the images of this fine thread are gone years ago... For a new illustrated top plate removal checklist see this post.
micromoogman
Well-known
Simple fix. I took the top cover off but that isn't always necessary. You'll reach the adjustment points through the cover. Just pop the little plastic piece off from the top cover.
ohsnappe
Newbie
I thought the fix was alot more complicated than just two adjustment points. If i was to send mine out who do you guys recommend?
Kenny1547
Newbie
Sorry for digging out this thread, but i have a little problem, my vertical alignment is really good from infinity to like 1,2m, but from 0,7-1,2 its a little low, how can i change that?
Does' 2. Up-down 1m coincidence adjustment: Set the lens distance mark to 1m and check at a distance of 1m. If out of focus, set halfway to [infinity] (use 1m chart)'
mean i should just put the lens to 1m and fix it? Doesnt infinity get screwed up with that?
Greetings,
Till
Does' 2. Up-down 1m coincidence adjustment: Set the lens distance mark to 1m and check at a distance of 1m. If out of focus, set halfway to [infinity] (use 1m chart)'
mean i should just put the lens to 1m and fix it? Doesnt infinity get screwed up with that?
Greetings,
Till
hth
Well-known
My Hexar RF is slightly off vertically. I had it apart a while back, but I cannot make the vertical alignment wheel turn (using the amount of force I dared to apply to it). Is that normal?
Håkan
Håkan
AFAIK its not possible. The problem could be that your eye position relative to the eyepiece is a little too high or low.