Wayne R. Scott
Half fast Leica User
Check out this link, it is very useful and has methods that even I can implement.
http://www.hermes.net.au/bayling/repair.html
Wayne
http://www.hermes.net.au/bayling/repair.html
Wayne
back alley
IMAGES
oh my god!
digitalox
RF Extraordinaire
Brave guy! Not even wearing goggles!
Yes, I suggest that anyone outbidding me on as-is lenses follow those procedures exactly.
GeneW
Veteran
I guess KEH would rate that lens Ugly-
R
Rich Silfver
Guest
It's about what I would accomplish even if I tried to do a good job...
P
Peter
Guest
Nice action shots! I like the spray of optical glass from the lens barrel! Although the glass is yellowed!
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Designer
Keven
Thank goodness it wasn't an RF lens, eh? But that model is one of the best 50mm lenses ever made. It's not my way to flame others, but I venture to suggest the "repairman" is a clueless idiot, as there exists a non-destructive "repair" method.
But that model is one of the best 50mm lenses ever made. It's not my way to flame others, but I venture to suggest the "repairman" is a clueless idiot, as there exists a non-destructive "repair" method.taffer
void
Just a question, would that yellow tint have any effect on B&W shots !?
Sad end for a SMC Takumar 50/1.4...
Sad end for a SMC Takumar 50/1.4...
As a very pale yellow, Oscar, I understand it can have a slight effect to darken blues like a yellow filter only with less effect. For B&W use, I wouldn't mind that at all!
It's been discussed a few times on the 'net, and apparently reliable info from several sources indicates exposure to UV light eliminates the yellow tint. Even placing it in a sunny window pointing toward the light for a couple weeks is said to do the trick.
Sad end, yes, and that particular one, labeled "Super-Multi-Coated" is the latest and last of the M42 50/1.4 models, with the additional levers and such for open-aperture metering on the Spotmatic-F and ES and ESII cameras.
It's been discussed a few times on the 'net, and apparently reliable info from several sources indicates exposure to UV light eliminates the yellow tint. Even placing it in a sunny window pointing toward the light for a couple weeks is said to do the trick.
Sad end, yes, and that particular one, labeled "Super-Multi-Coated" is the latest and last of the M42 50/1.4 models, with the additional levers and such for open-aperture metering on the Spotmatic-F and ES and ESII cameras.
taffer
void
I read somewhere that direct exposure to UV light would kill fungus as well and stop its growth. I have a UV lamp, a 'black light' neon tube in fact, for decorative purposes (kinda cool ) but I think the required UV lamp for fungus killing is the one which would hurt your eyes if not wearing protective glasses.
As normal light has certain UV component, I guess the window trick could work, but wouldn't that also warm the oil in the blades and barrel ? Then that could result in oil over the lens elements...
) but I think the required UV lamp for fungus killing is the one which would hurt your eyes if not wearing protective glasses.As normal light has certain UV component, I guess the window trick could work, but wouldn't that also warm the oil in the blades and barrel ? Then that could result in oil over the lens elements...
I don't know about the heat & oil issue, Oscar... But lenses can also get plenty hot in other ways too. Has it been a problem?
taffer
void
Doug, not myself but I remember reading something about that in another forum some time ago. I had myself a very cheap Minolta lens with some fungus facing the sun for some days, and also placed over the UV neon.
Seems fungus didn't continue to grow but it could be already stopped when I first got the lens, who knows. After some hours under the sun, however, the focus ring turned VERY smoothly, almost too much to be normal
Seems fungus didn't continue to grow but it could be already stopped when I first got the lens, who knows. After some hours under the sun, however, the focus ring turned VERY smoothly, almost too much to be normal