Huss
Veteran
I had two CLEs, recently sold one but kept this one because it was so minty.
But it seems that it is on its last legs. Occasionally the film advance lever jams. It acts as if the film has already been advanced when it in fact has not.
When I removed the base plate, I noticed that this small nylon dogbone shape lever was out of place.
First image shows the position where the film lever (and shutter) will not advance:

Second image shows the correct position (i just moved it back with my finger), where the film winder now is able to advance.

Once I do this I can fire off a bunch of shots, but sooner or later it remains in position #1 and jams again. It does not matter if I leave the camera with the shutter cocked or uncocked, it still does it.
Nippon Photo Clinic told me they don't touch CLEs anymore..
Any ideas? It almost seems that that retaining spring that should pull the dogbone back into position is too weak/has lost its tension. I've heard whisperings about magnets getting dirty, but not sure what that means or where they are.
TIA
But it seems that it is on its last legs. Occasionally the film advance lever jams. It acts as if the film has already been advanced when it in fact has not.
When I removed the base plate, I noticed that this small nylon dogbone shape lever was out of place.
First image shows the position where the film lever (and shutter) will not advance:

Second image shows the correct position (i just moved it back with my finger), where the film winder now is able to advance.

Once I do this I can fire off a bunch of shots, but sooner or later it remains in position #1 and jams again. It does not matter if I leave the camera with the shutter cocked or uncocked, it still does it.
Nippon Photo Clinic told me they don't touch CLEs anymore..
Any ideas? It almost seems that that retaining spring that should pull the dogbone back into position is too weak/has lost its tension. I've heard whisperings about magnets getting dirty, but not sure what that means or where they are.
TIA
sepiareverb
genius and moron
On the upside it isn’t the electronics that went, which is why one is always told to avoid a CLE. I would suspect you could fine someone to do a mechanical repair.
Huss
Veteran
On the upside it isn’t the electronics that went, which is why one is always told to avoid a CLE. I would suspect you could fine someone to do a mechanical repair.
I am hoping so but am bummed by Nippon Photo Clinic's reply as many say they are the go to people for Japanese camera repair. I included the pics I've attached above but I got the 'sorry no parts available' reply.
As you mention, this seems to be more of a mechanical issue that a curious tech could fix.
But what do I know?
three letters:
D
A
G
D
A
G
Huss
Veteran
sepiareverb
genius and moron
If not DAG, give Kanto a try.
Huss
Veteran
Beemermark
Veteran
Been about 5 years but I just sent mine to an instate repair shop that claimed they could fix anything. And they did. Mine was the wonky shutter release.
Huss
Veteran
Been about 5 years but I just sent mine to an instate repair shop that claimed they could fix anything. And they did. Mine was the wonky shutter release.
Do you remember the name of that shop?
farlymac
PF McFarland
Just a thought, but is that spring tail sitting on the proper side of the L shaped lever (above the short end)? Maybe move it to the other side of the pin?
PF
PF
Huss
Veteran
DAG replied that he only works on Leicas now because he has more work than he can handle and cannot get parts for the CLE. He did say it could be the small plastic gear behind the tripod mount as those can lose teeth. I don't think it's that because resetting the dogbone allows it to work again and doing that does not advance those gears.
Interestingly he also mentioned that the manual shutter speed settings can wear out. So to those out there who 'fix' their jumping LEDs by spinning that, don't.
Interestingly he also mentioned that the manual shutter speed settings can wear out. So to those out there who 'fix' their jumping LEDs by spinning that, don't.
DAG has always had more work than he can handle. 
This should not be difficult. I know a guy...but it's the same thing, all the good techs are busy.
Might try talking to Gus Lazzari.
This should not be difficult. I know a guy...but it's the same thing, all the good techs are busy.
Might try talking to Gus Lazzari.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Neither of those is an electronics failure.
panerai
Well-known
Probably too late, but guy selling a parts camera on ebay for $80 or best offer and part is in there
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Minolta-cl...609080?hash=item3d5b2be7b8:g:y0sAAOSwA7NaliXg
DON
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Minolta-cl...609080?hash=item3d5b2be7b8:g:y0sAAOSwA7NaliXg
DON
muser53
MUSER53
Don't forget to contact Sherry Krauter at Golden Touch.
farlymac
PF McFarland
Probably too late, but guy selling a parts camera on ebay for $80 or best offer and part is in there
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Minolta-cl...609080?hash=item3d5b2be7b8:g:y0sAAOSwA7NaliXg
DON
Looking at this one it would appear that the springs on Huss's camera are in their proper positions. Likely something underneath the tripod mount plate that is amiss.
PF
Shafovaloff1
Well-known
Corrosion at power solder points to board or inside wire can cause resistance causing intermittent problems. I would check this first. Wire can corrode inside the insulation. My experience with Japanese cameras sometimes looks as if the solder resin was not cleaned off which I suspect accelerates corrosion....suspect. There is some sort of inertial wheel under the board that I moved to remedy shutter problem on my CLE. As I recall did not lubricate point but if tempted use minute amount as it will get slinged all over the place if too much! Also, have used high power flash discharging to correct LED stuck at lowest shutter speed. Do not use contact cleaner or careful not to get on mirror prism in rangefinder part as it will degrade mirror surface...major problem to avoid.
Chops_photo
Newbie
Does anyone still service CLEs?
TLDR- cant find someone to service my CLE
So recently I took a gamble on a CLE from goodwill. Bought a box of 10 or so cameras, mainly for the CLE to go with my CL. I currently only have the 28mm Rokkor so i figured it would be cool to have a camera it was made for, and to actually get the framelines for the lens. Looks like it is DOA though.
-The shutter is cocked (The curtain showing has the white dots for the light meter reading, and no more room on the film advance arm)
-Despite using new batteries and several of them, the shutter will not fire
-I only occasionally get the battery check light to work. Sometimes it wants to light up, sometimes it doesnt. I think i have to have the on/off/self timer switch in the exact position or look at it in just the right way to make it work
-in auto i get no light meter reading
-I’ve tried firing it every way i can think of. Every shutter speed, auto, with the shutter button, with a cable release, nothing works, no response.
I have reached out to quite a few diffent Leica specialists, as well as other camera repair shops, the only answers I got were from DAG explaining how he no longer works on CLs or CLEs due to parts availability, and recommended to check with Nippon Camera Clinic (waiting on a response from them), Youxin Ye of YYE sent a short email back saying that he does not work on them and doesnt know of anyone who would, and all of the local shops are afraid to touch anything M-mount.
So really, I am just looking to see if there is anyone out there who is willing to take a look at this camera. It’s in great cosmetic shape, and i would prefer to send it out to get repaired at all possible before i end up having to sell it for parts or something like that. I would greatly appreciate any tips
TLDR- cant find someone to service my CLE
So recently I took a gamble on a CLE from goodwill. Bought a box of 10 or so cameras, mainly for the CLE to go with my CL. I currently only have the 28mm Rokkor so i figured it would be cool to have a camera it was made for, and to actually get the framelines for the lens. Looks like it is DOA though.
-The shutter is cocked (The curtain showing has the white dots for the light meter reading, and no more room on the film advance arm)
-Despite using new batteries and several of them, the shutter will not fire
-I only occasionally get the battery check light to work. Sometimes it wants to light up, sometimes it doesnt. I think i have to have the on/off/self timer switch in the exact position or look at it in just the right way to make it work
-in auto i get no light meter reading
-I’ve tried firing it every way i can think of. Every shutter speed, auto, with the shutter button, with a cable release, nothing works, no response.
I have reached out to quite a few diffent Leica specialists, as well as other camera repair shops, the only answers I got were from DAG explaining how he no longer works on CLs or CLEs due to parts availability, and recommended to check with Nippon Camera Clinic (waiting on a response from them), Youxin Ye of YYE sent a short email back saying that he does not work on them and doesnt know of anyone who would, and all of the local shops are afraid to touch anything M-mount.
So really, I am just looking to see if there is anyone out there who is willing to take a look at this camera. It’s in great cosmetic shape, and i would prefer to send it out to get repaired at all possible before i end up having to sell it for parts or something like that. I would greatly appreciate any tips
muser53
MUSER53
It has been several (3-4) years but a friend had Sherry at Golden Touch overhaul his with good results.
BillBingham2
Registered User
If you call Sherry I'd recommend you approach as if you are asking the Queen of England for a favor. There are some threads here that have caused me to suggest that approach.
B2 (;->
B2 (;->
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