Domke F803 stiffener-ectomy

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Hello good folks,

I'm sure I'm not the first around here to go in and remove the top flap stiffener, or otherwise cut into Domke canvas (it's that cheap black canvas that frays like crazy, btw).

I'm pleased with the result, operationally, but I'm wondering about the best way to "close" the incision. I'd planned to use an iron-on patch, but I found that there is a layer of vinyl (rainproofing, I guess) between the two layers of canvas that make up the flap, and I don't want to risk melting it or gluing the patch to it.

I've temporarily sealed it with gaffer's tape. (I'd pretreated the area with homemade fray-stop.) Also, I'm a klutz with needle and thread.

Anyone have experience to share?

- Bob
 
I just cut one small slot at the end of the stiffener. I hope that is all you did. The plastic piece slides right out and all you are left with is a 1.5 inch slit to handsew with a few passes of the needle.
 
JayC said:
I just cut one small slot at the end of the stiffener. I hope that is all you did. The plastic piece slides right out and all you are left with is a 1.5 inch slit to handsew with a few passes of the needle.
Click to expand...


This is what I did but instead of sewing I spread a thin layer of ordinary wood-working glue over the two ends where I had made the cut. It dried in under 24 hours and all you can see is a slightly darker patch underneath the flap where the glue dried. When the glue dries it makes that patch of canvas stiffer but its right against a seam at the end of the flap so it has no effect on using the bag
 
Thanks everyone for the ideas!

I made my cut under the handle. I figured it was the least stressed area, and I didn't want to risk messing up the end seams. I think I'll try gluing on a patch.

back alley:

The only downside from my POV is fixing the scar afterwards. I tested the bag with a couple of large, heavy loads and found it could handle it. Even when I picked it up by the handle with the top unclasped, nothing spilled. There was very slight sagging and bowing, and more pouching toward the front. I will be using the clasp more often.

On the other hand, I feel the bag is much improved--no more edge digging into my ribs, and the bag hangs closer and more comfortably. I always liked the idea of this bag, but found the sharp board poking my ribs annoying.

Note that if you do this right, it's reversible; or you can substitute your own stiffener. I figure if I ever need stiffness, I'll slip something in the back document sleeve.
 
I never experienced this problem with my 803 (and if you saw the condition of mine, you'd know it's seen serious mileage). I hope the "operation" doesn't negatively affect your bag's longevity–the things are truly hardy.


- Barrett
 
amateriat said:
I never experienced this problem with my 803 (and if you saw the condition of mine, you'd know it's seen serious mileage). I hope the "operation" doesn't negatively affect your bag's longevity–the things are truly hardy.
Click to expand...

When I saw that the stiffener was coroplast, I understood how some 803's could be more comfortable than others. Trim coroplast right and you have a 4 mm thick blunt edge. But the stuff is made of 0.2 mm thick plastic, and on mine it turned out to be a single .2 mm edge that was poking at my tender flank through the canvas.

I could blunt the coroplast and put it back, or I could substitute some other board material, but I like the soft top. I'm now considering edging the cut I made and leaving the space accessible as a pocket to stash stuff, like a rolled up rain cover, shutter release cable, etc.

As for longevity, I think the bag material will last some time, but I wonder about the strap material. Within a year of mild use, one of the side attachment loops ripped out of its stitches, and I worry that the loops that the shoulder strap attaches to are already showing wear.
 
That plastic stiffener is the reason I sold my Domke F-803 and bought the Safrotto knock-off. No stiffener, 2" strap, better inserts, half price, etc., etc., etc.
 
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