Jason Sprenger
Well-known
Duane,
If you were using plastic reels, don't be shy about agitation in B. I probably go overboard but I agitate at 10 sec, 30 sec, 1 min, 1:30, 2:00 and 3:00. Two inversions per agitation.
I followed conventional wisdom of minimal agitation and I got " bromide trails" from the sprocket holes more often than not. The gentle agitation wisdom probably applies more for folks using stainless steel reels and tanks than us guys using plastic.
If you were using plastic reels, don't be shy about agitation in B. I probably go overboard but I agitate at 10 sec, 30 sec, 1 min, 1:30, 2:00 and 3:00. Two inversions per agitation.
I followed conventional wisdom of minimal agitation and I got " bromide trails" from the sprocket holes more often than not. The gentle agitation wisdom probably applies more for folks using stainless steel reels and tanks than us guys using plastic.
dagabel
Established
Thanks, Jason - yes, I'm using plasic reels and tank. I'll try more agitation in B for my upcoming test rolls.
Thanks again!
Duane
Thanks again!
Duane
phototone
Well-known
Possibly still use stop bath before fixer, here's why.
Possibly still use stop bath before fixer, here's why.
But, if the developer is alkaline, then not using a stop bath would gradually decrease the acidity of the fixer rendering it unfit sooner. The stop bath, by neutralizing the alkalinity of the developer does more than just "stop" the development, which in the case of the developer in discussion is a moot point.
Fixer is made acidic in chemical composition. Anything that takes away this acidity will reduce the usefull life of the fixer quicker than the exhaustion that comes from fixing film. By using an acidic stop bath, you are "pre-conditioning" the film, buffering it, if you will, to not weaken the action of the fixer.
Possibly still use stop bath before fixer, here's why.
bmattock said:
But, if the developer is alkaline, then not using a stop bath would gradually decrease the acidity of the fixer rendering it unfit sooner. The stop bath, by neutralizing the alkalinity of the developer does more than just "stop" the development, which in the case of the developer in discussion is a moot point.
Fixer is made acidic in chemical composition. Anything that takes away this acidity will reduce the usefull life of the fixer quicker than the exhaustion that comes from fixing film. By using an acidic stop bath, you are "pre-conditioning" the film, buffering it, if you will, to not weaken the action of the fixer.
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
A bit late (first time I've looked at the thread for almost half a year now), but that's great to hear!RicardoD said:
The shots I posted are Tri-X, TMax 400, FP4+ and Plus-X (rated at ISO 1000, 800, 200 and 200, respectively).
I think the best combination is with Tri-X, then Plus-X, then FP4+, then TMax 400.
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
Okay, shots. Examples. I figure that it may help those who aren't familiar with Diafine.
I shot HP5 at 800 (metered for once, be proud) and this is what I got. Posted in the "Around the House" W/NW thread as well.
I like HP5 in Diafine. It's a bit grainier than it could be, but I like the grain. Then again, I always have.
I shot HP5 at 800 (metered for once, be proud) and this is what I got. Posted in the "Around the House" W/NW thread as well.
I like HP5 in Diafine. It's a bit grainier than it could be, but I like the grain. Then again, I always have.
jano
Evil Bokeh
It doesn't look grainy at all at these smaller sizes. Did you do any enahancements? I may just give hp5+ a second chance. My first time round with it was way too flat for me (tried both diafine and xtol), and no amount of curves or contrast got me desirable results.
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
Nope, no enhancements...those actually came straight out of the scanner.