Double-exposures

wolves3012

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Some cameras, notably SLRs, have the means to perform double exposures. Some are fiddly, some actually come with a button to allow it.

Are FSU cameras inferior in this respect? No, on some models it can be done! Here's what I found from fiddling around. This will ONLY work on a FED 3/4/5 or Zorki 4/4K. It will also put an unusual strain on the shutter-speed selector mechanism, so be gentle and DON'T do it if it feels stiff; it would be VERY easy to break the selector. DON'T use your best camera, I take NO responsibilty for you breaking things! I'd advise against using it on the slow speeds (1/15th or slower) too.

If you're happy with the caveats above, here's how you do it:

1) Take the first exposure as normal. Afterwards, use the rewind knob to take out any slack in the film and make sure there's some tension.

2) Whilst holding the shutter button down, turn the shutter speed dial anticlockwise until it lines up again with the same speed as used before. Don't loose it at any point since it'll fly back. Once you've reached the right point you should feel it stop anyway, DO NOT force things! Now, release the shutter button and the shutter stays cocked. If you want to change speeds, do so as normal, since the shutter is cocked now.

3) take the next exposure.

Steps 2 and 3 may be repeated as you like, the film will not be wound on.
 
Thank you for sharing it. I just tried. As you said, it works on Fed 3b, but not on Fed 2. The shutter speed dial can't be turned to that extent on Fed 2.
 
Works on a FED-5B. Does not work on a Drug, even though it supposedly has a Zorkiesque shutter mechanism.
 
In screw Leicas it is possible to cock the shutter without winding on the film by turning the speed selector. The release does not need to be kept depressed.
 
payasam said:
In screw Leicas it is possible to cock the shutter without winding on the film by turning the speed selector. The release does not need to be kept depressed.

Won't work for double exposure purposes with pre-IIIc shutters. This doesn't work with FED-1 or Zorki-1 too.
 
Hey, I've been trying to figure this out with my FED-5B, and rxmd said he was able to get it to work on his, but so far I've had no luck. Does film need to be in the camera for some reason for this to work? I don't see why it would be, I'm just somewhat in between frustrated and confused. I also realize this thread is very old, but it is the only one on the topic of double exposures in FSU cameras I could find.
 
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Hey, I've been trying to figure this out with my FED-5B, and rxmd said he was able to get it to work on his, but so far I've had no luck. Does film need to be in the camera for some reason for this to work? I don't see why it would be, I'm just somewhat in between frustrated and confused. I also realize this thread is very old, but it is the only one on the topic of double exposures in FSU cameras I could find.
Works on mine, without a film in it. In fact, I didn't need to keep the shutter button down either, just turn the speed-dial (gently) anticlockwise until it clicks. I would not advise this on speeds slower than 1/30 because that would put extra strain on the speed-selector pin, which might break.
 
Okay, I'll definitely take another stab at it after I make it through this test roll without breaking my camera. Thanks for the advice!
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Update: I have tried this and still isn't working for me. Should I be lining the selector up with the actual shutter speed I used after it resets to the position where it is slack, or should I rotate it around until it reaches the "slack" position again (1/15 is where it looks like it rests after shooting at 1/125)?
 
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There is another option, although it requires a bit more planning. But, as far as I'm aware, it should work on all Fed/Zorkis without any risk of damage, so it's probably the better option for most. I've only done it as a proof of concept with blank film and the back off - I've yet to do an actual photo with it, but I don't see why it shouldn't work.

First of all, you need to ensure the film is tight inside the camera by rewinding the slack film into the canister until it stops. Make a note of where the rewind arrow is - you only need to have a rough idea, so don't get out the marker pens. Take the first shot and engage the rewind mechanism, rewinding the film for one full turn of the knob. It is better to rewind slightly more than slightly less, but other than that, don't worry about being too precise. Disengage the rewind mechanism (or, in the case of the Fed 5, just start winding again), wind the film on until it stops as normal and the shutter will be cocked and you should be ready for a perfectly-aligned double exposure.

In theory.
 
Okay, I'll definitely take another stab at it after I make it through this test roll without breaking my camera. Thanks for the advice!
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Update: I have tried this and still isn't working for me. Should I be lining the selector up with the actual shutter speed I used after it resets to the position where it is slack, or should I rotate it around until it reaches the "slack" position again (1/15 is where it looks like it rests after shooting at 1/125)?
Wind it until it's back in line with the speed you used last time. There should be a slight click at that point as it latches cocked.
 
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