Dust

In reality photoflow is washed of reels by water just like most chemicals. I've never had any issues with sticky reels as I clean mine with a toothbrush.
In fact I developed a film this evening in a plastic reel I bought 30+ years ago–120 film loaded easily.
 
I hang my films to dry in the bathroom. I usually develop late at night, so there will be less people using the room. The bathroom is the best place to dry films, I guess the showers take the dust away.

I drop a few drops of fluid dish-wash-fluid in the last rinse. This will eliminate most dry marks. I always rinse in running cold water. Many years ago I got films with many small cracks when I tried using a mixture of cold and hot water. I also now never try to remove remaining water after I have hanged the film. This can give small scratches on the film, if you have small sand particles in the water (which I have). I have my own fresh-water supply, as I live outside a city. I have analyzed the water, it is crystal clear with ph=7 with no bacteria, but it has small sand particles which blocks filters.

If you have dry marks or dust, a simple way to get rid of them before scanning or enlargement is to wipe the negatives quickly with a drop of clear alcohol on a dry cloth or paper. They will then become very clean!🙂
 
So, what's everyone's preferred method for getting dust off *after* the fact? I have a few rolls that have some pretty bad dust. I got an air can, but it's not doing the greatest job.
 
Did anyone mention the Ilford Antistatium cloth? If you don't have one, get one. I give my negs a wipe down with one before scanning and life is good!
 
Besides the precautions mentioned already, also make sure you're not introducing dust from your tanks and reels or anything else that goes into the tank during processing. After processing I do not wipe or dry the inside of tanks or reels with a cloth as this can leave lint behind. I let everything air dry. Also, I store them in a closed container so that dust can't settle on them. After air drying I use a Rocket-air blower to remove any dust that may have settled on them before storing them in a closed container. Sounds weird but it takes only a small amount of dust/lint in the tank or on the reels to get on the film during processing to cause a problem.

I also filter all chemicals between developing runs with coffee filters as residue from processing (e.g., silver) can attach to the film.

Taking these precautions, I don't find dust to be a problem.
 
Can any old anti-static cloth work? Some jack hole selling the Ilford one locally once wants $58 (lol, wut?!). Other anti-static cloths are available for a price for those of us that don't smoke crack.
 
Can any old anti-static cloth work? Some jack hole selling the Ilford one locally once wants $58 (lol, wut?!). Other anti-static cloths are available for a price for those of us that don't smoke crack.

Hmm I dunno. I get mine from B&H for $12 I think. I keep it in the lactic bag when not using it because it has a coating on the cloth that eventually wears off and time to get another. It does last a long time and it definitely is worth it to me.
 
Ok, I have almost finished my preparation for the new "clean process".
I'll report as soon as I test it.
meanwhile, can someone please measure the temperature of the hot air in their dryer (no matter what model, closet or on-reels system).
I need to make sure I won't bake my rolls.
 
... can someone please measure the temperature of the hot air in their dryer (no matter what model, closet or on-reels system).
I need to make sure I won't bake my rolls.

I can't speak for any other models, but my Senrac has a cool/warm switch, and only on the warm setting does it actually heat the air. So no need to bake your film if you don't want to! 🙂 So far I haven't needed to use the heat even once, as the film has always been completely dry after one full cycle of the timer (~15 minutes) using the cool setting. This is with single rolls of 120 film on stainless steel reels; and I do live in a rather dry climate - so your mileage may vary.

But just for reference, here are my measurements. On the warm setting, the Senrac's air temperature rose by about 40F from a room temperature of 70F, settling in at about 110F. For good measure I also checked the cool setting and found that the temperature still increases, but only slighty - rising by about 3-4F (presumably just heating of the air from operation of the blower).

Hope that helps!

Jeff
 
I can't speak for any other models, but my Senrac has a cool/warm switch, and only on the warm setting does it actually heat the air. So no need to bake your film if you don't want to! 🙂 So far I haven't needed to use the heat even once, as the film has always been completely dry after one full cycle of the timer (~15 minutes) using the cool setting. This is with single rolls of 120 film on stainless steel reels; and I do live in a rather dry climate - so your mileage may vary.

But just for reference, here are my measurements. On the warm setting, the Senrac's air temperature rose by about 40F from a room temperature of 70F, settling in at about 110F. For good measure I also checked the cool setting and found that the temperature still increases, but only slighty - rising by about 3-4F (presumably just heating of the air from operation of the blower).

Hope that helps!

Jeff

Thanks a lot for checking!
The hair drier I just bought for that purpose has a heat switch, and I just measured the air Temp. at the intermediate setting just above 40 degrees C at the exhaust, which means that it's safe (the air is in fact even further cooling down before reaching the film).
I think using moderate heat may have the advantage of "closing" the emulsion quicker, leaving less time for dust to stick there...

Next: try everything (next few days) 🙂
 
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