JohnL
Very confused
A few months ago, I bought an Olympus E-P3 and some related kit …
• 17mm f/2.8 kit lens (equivalent field of view to 34mm on a 35mm camera);
• 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II R (alternative kit) lens (equivalent 28-84mm);
• 40-150mm f/4-5.6 lens (equivalent 80-300mm);
• Electronic viewfinder VF-2;
• Macro close-up adapter (not yet used);
• Wide-angle adapter (makes the 14-42 roughly 11-33mm, equivalent 22-66mm);
• M-mount lens adapter (Panasonic);
• Remote release model RM-UC1.
Previously I have mostly been using Canon DSLRs and a Leica M7. I got the E-P3 mainly with a view to going digital with a small “street-type” camera, and to avoid the hassle of scanning film. I also have a Canon S95 as a fully pocketable camera. When shooting digital, I virtually always shoot RAW, and use the kit conversion programs (DPP with Canon, OV2 for the E-P3).
The following are my feelings on this camera after about 2000 frames ...
Generally, I am very satisfied, but there are some issues that seem worth mentioning, mostly related to my learning curve with this new camera. The layout of the controls and menus is rather different from that of the Canon cameras, and took some getting used to. As I progress, I now waste less time than I did trying to figure out how to adjust some setting or other, and begin to be able to concentrate more on the pictures, rather than merely technical issues. Hopefully this will gradually lead to better pictures.
Camera configuration
Here are the controls that I actually use, and the configuration that I have set at the moment. I think this is now unlikely to change much, as I am getting quite comfortable with it …
• I have the INFO button set to cycle between clear screen, data and histogram in shooting mode. I generally leave it on histogram.
• I have set the red dot (movie) button to toggle between AF and MF. I hardly ever shoot video clips, so this makes sense for me.
• I have the zoom / magnify button set to toggle full frame view and 5x magnification. 5x is about the most I can use with the camera hand-held, and I only rarely put this camera on a tripod. At higher magnifications, the magnified view jumps about too much for accurate manual focusing.
• I have set the Fn.1 button to toggle AEL. I don’t often use this, but when I want it, it’s there.
• I have the Fn.2 button set to toggle the DOF preview. This also, I don’t use very often.
• I use the UP button for EC – this is the default setting. I use the thumb wheel for adjustments.
• I use the LEFT button for AF target selection – also the default setting. Pressing the INFO button right after the LEFT button allows selection of the target type (single point, group of points or all points).
• I use the RIGHT button for flash options (default configuration).
• I use the DOWN button for drive and self-timer options (default configuration).
• I have set the OK button to display the SCP (“super control panel”) which I prefer to the “live control”, because all the available adjustments are visible on the display. With the live control you may have to do quite a bit of scrolling to find the setting you are looking for. I use this mainly to set the ISO level, which is prominently shown at the top-left corner of the display. At times, I also use this to change flash settings (including FEC), IBIS settings and AF settings, such as face detection, among others.
The playback and trashcan buttons are fixed settings. I would have liked to have the ISO setting closer to hand, but there does not seem to be anywhere to put it without disturbing something non-generic, thus resulting in misleading button indications. It would likely cause me confusion were I to use one of the dedicated locations (marked with icons specific to some other function), and then not use this particular camera for a few days.
Ergonomics
Some of the dials and buttons are on the small side, and quite crowded together, but I can live with that. The only real issue I have encountered is that the thumb-wheel sometimes gets moved without me noticing, which can cause exposure errors if I don't catch it. The camera is very light and easy to carry, even round my neck on the standard strap provided, which I almost never do with the M7 (leather strap usually round wrist), and absolutely never with an SLR (I use UpStraps over my shoulder). The standard grip is quite sufficient to provide a decent hold, despite the traditional design of the camera body, and with the strap round my neck, it doesn’t really matter if I drop it anyway.
Build quality
The body gives a very solid impression, despite its lightness. The lenses are so light that I wonder how long they will stand up to wear, but I have to say that they look good now, and deliver good results.
Image quality
Very good to excellent, within the constraints of the 12MP sensor, which is plenty for most purposes. Colours are good. Dynamic range is acceptable, except in bright sunlight. Most sensors struggle with very high contrast scenes anyway, but this is not one of the best in this respect. Other issues which can affect IQ are discussed under various topics below.
Auto-focus
This is very fast and generally as accurate as one might expect. No complaints. I generally use the centre spot only and reframe as needed.
Image stabilization
The E-P3 has in-body image stabilization (IBIS), which is only engaged for exposure, as I understand it, and thus does not provide a stabilized image in the viewfinder. I have also found occasional symptoms of movement blur at shutter speeds the IBIS should easily be able to handle. This may be due to (1) me releasing the shutter before the IBIS has settled down (possibly I am being tricked by the very fast AF), or (2) to the very lightness of the camera, or (3) to some unknown gotcha in the IBIS implementation (I have seen comments about this issue on the web). When I can remember, I now turn off the IBIS when I believe I can hand-hold without it – but I am not yet sure if this is an improvement or not, since I don’t always remember to turn it off, or on again for that matter when it is needed.
Lenses
I have found all three of the M. Zuiko lenses (17mm, 14-42mm and 40-150mm) very sharp indeed in normal use, providing I do things right. I have also found the wide-angle adapter with the 14-42mm to be perfectly acceptable. Because of the small format and diffraction issues, I guess overall sharpness is best between about f/5.6 and f/8.
As to legacy lenses, I have tried a number of M-lenses with manual focus, including a Canon 50/1.2 (LTM mount with M-adapter) which is a bit dreamy wide-open, and subject to flare against direct light (no surprise) but full of character for appropriate subjects, and Voigtländer 35/1.2 and 50/1.1 Noktons. These two are pretty good on the E-P3, when you get the focus spot on, which is not always easy with these very fast lenses wide open. I also have my eye on the Voigtländer 25/0.95 and possibly a 17mm (faster than the one I have now) if I can find one. I also have a Canon 50/0.95 “dream” lens which I have not tried yet but should be fun for certain subjects.
Viewfinder
The screen is a good one, but you can’t really get a critical view of the image in bright sunlight, when the VF-2 becomes an absolute necessity. I wish it were built in – perhaps it will be in some future iteration. As EVFs go, this one is far better than any I have seen before, but the last one I checked out was a few years ago. Tracking moving subjects works much better than it used to, but still not quite as good as a good optical viewfinder on an SLR.
Remote release
I don’t often use this camera on a tripod, but the remote release works fine. Curiously, I have seen comments on the net to the effect that this release only works on the Olympus E-series DSLRs.
General summary
This is an enjoyable camera to use, once you get used to its peculiarities – not that they are really peculiar – just different from other cameras I have used. It fills an important gap between the “go anywhere any-time” S95 and my DSLRs. I have not finally decided, but I shall probably sell the M7 and several lenses in due course. As to the future, I don’t expect to keep this camera forever. Someday, when it exists, I’ll be looking for something more like the Fuji X100, with interchangeable lenses, if it’s as agile as the E-P3.
If I think of anything else or change my views in any way, I’ll try to remember to update this.
Edit / Update: With the announcement of various new cameras (eg. the Fuji X Pro 1) that I suspect will be as good as or better than the E-P3 for my purposes, I have done an about turn and decided to hang on to the M7 for a while, and have managed to sell all this kit at virtually no loss - this before it's value starts to fall, which may be imminent. I'll wait to see how the new cameras fare in the real world, but early reviews look promising.
• 17mm f/2.8 kit lens (equivalent field of view to 34mm on a 35mm camera);
• 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II R (alternative kit) lens (equivalent 28-84mm);
• 40-150mm f/4-5.6 lens (equivalent 80-300mm);
• Electronic viewfinder VF-2;
• Macro close-up adapter (not yet used);
• Wide-angle adapter (makes the 14-42 roughly 11-33mm, equivalent 22-66mm);
• M-mount lens adapter (Panasonic);
• Remote release model RM-UC1.
Previously I have mostly been using Canon DSLRs and a Leica M7. I got the E-P3 mainly with a view to going digital with a small “street-type” camera, and to avoid the hassle of scanning film. I also have a Canon S95 as a fully pocketable camera. When shooting digital, I virtually always shoot RAW, and use the kit conversion programs (DPP with Canon, OV2 for the E-P3).
The following are my feelings on this camera after about 2000 frames ...
Generally, I am very satisfied, but there are some issues that seem worth mentioning, mostly related to my learning curve with this new camera. The layout of the controls and menus is rather different from that of the Canon cameras, and took some getting used to. As I progress, I now waste less time than I did trying to figure out how to adjust some setting or other, and begin to be able to concentrate more on the pictures, rather than merely technical issues. Hopefully this will gradually lead to better pictures.
Camera configuration
Here are the controls that I actually use, and the configuration that I have set at the moment. I think this is now unlikely to change much, as I am getting quite comfortable with it …
• I have the INFO button set to cycle between clear screen, data and histogram in shooting mode. I generally leave it on histogram.
• I have set the red dot (movie) button to toggle between AF and MF. I hardly ever shoot video clips, so this makes sense for me.
• I have the zoom / magnify button set to toggle full frame view and 5x magnification. 5x is about the most I can use with the camera hand-held, and I only rarely put this camera on a tripod. At higher magnifications, the magnified view jumps about too much for accurate manual focusing.
• I have set the Fn.1 button to toggle AEL. I don’t often use this, but when I want it, it’s there.
• I have the Fn.2 button set to toggle the DOF preview. This also, I don’t use very often.
• I use the UP button for EC – this is the default setting. I use the thumb wheel for adjustments.
• I use the LEFT button for AF target selection – also the default setting. Pressing the INFO button right after the LEFT button allows selection of the target type (single point, group of points or all points).
• I use the RIGHT button for flash options (default configuration).
• I use the DOWN button for drive and self-timer options (default configuration).
• I have set the OK button to display the SCP (“super control panel”) which I prefer to the “live control”, because all the available adjustments are visible on the display. With the live control you may have to do quite a bit of scrolling to find the setting you are looking for. I use this mainly to set the ISO level, which is prominently shown at the top-left corner of the display. At times, I also use this to change flash settings (including FEC), IBIS settings and AF settings, such as face detection, among others.
The playback and trashcan buttons are fixed settings. I would have liked to have the ISO setting closer to hand, but there does not seem to be anywhere to put it without disturbing something non-generic, thus resulting in misleading button indications. It would likely cause me confusion were I to use one of the dedicated locations (marked with icons specific to some other function), and then not use this particular camera for a few days.
Ergonomics
Some of the dials and buttons are on the small side, and quite crowded together, but I can live with that. The only real issue I have encountered is that the thumb-wheel sometimes gets moved without me noticing, which can cause exposure errors if I don't catch it. The camera is very light and easy to carry, even round my neck on the standard strap provided, which I almost never do with the M7 (leather strap usually round wrist), and absolutely never with an SLR (I use UpStraps over my shoulder). The standard grip is quite sufficient to provide a decent hold, despite the traditional design of the camera body, and with the strap round my neck, it doesn’t really matter if I drop it anyway.
Build quality
The body gives a very solid impression, despite its lightness. The lenses are so light that I wonder how long they will stand up to wear, but I have to say that they look good now, and deliver good results.
Image quality
Very good to excellent, within the constraints of the 12MP sensor, which is plenty for most purposes. Colours are good. Dynamic range is acceptable, except in bright sunlight. Most sensors struggle with very high contrast scenes anyway, but this is not one of the best in this respect. Other issues which can affect IQ are discussed under various topics below.
Auto-focus
This is very fast and generally as accurate as one might expect. No complaints. I generally use the centre spot only and reframe as needed.
Image stabilization
The E-P3 has in-body image stabilization (IBIS), which is only engaged for exposure, as I understand it, and thus does not provide a stabilized image in the viewfinder. I have also found occasional symptoms of movement blur at shutter speeds the IBIS should easily be able to handle. This may be due to (1) me releasing the shutter before the IBIS has settled down (possibly I am being tricked by the very fast AF), or (2) to the very lightness of the camera, or (3) to some unknown gotcha in the IBIS implementation (I have seen comments about this issue on the web). When I can remember, I now turn off the IBIS when I believe I can hand-hold without it – but I am not yet sure if this is an improvement or not, since I don’t always remember to turn it off, or on again for that matter when it is needed.
Lenses
I have found all three of the M. Zuiko lenses (17mm, 14-42mm and 40-150mm) very sharp indeed in normal use, providing I do things right. I have also found the wide-angle adapter with the 14-42mm to be perfectly acceptable. Because of the small format and diffraction issues, I guess overall sharpness is best between about f/5.6 and f/8.
As to legacy lenses, I have tried a number of M-lenses with manual focus, including a Canon 50/1.2 (LTM mount with M-adapter) which is a bit dreamy wide-open, and subject to flare against direct light (no surprise) but full of character for appropriate subjects, and Voigtländer 35/1.2 and 50/1.1 Noktons. These two are pretty good on the E-P3, when you get the focus spot on, which is not always easy with these very fast lenses wide open. I also have my eye on the Voigtländer 25/0.95 and possibly a 17mm (faster than the one I have now) if I can find one. I also have a Canon 50/0.95 “dream” lens which I have not tried yet but should be fun for certain subjects.
Viewfinder
The screen is a good one, but you can’t really get a critical view of the image in bright sunlight, when the VF-2 becomes an absolute necessity. I wish it were built in – perhaps it will be in some future iteration. As EVFs go, this one is far better than any I have seen before, but the last one I checked out was a few years ago. Tracking moving subjects works much better than it used to, but still not quite as good as a good optical viewfinder on an SLR.
Remote release
I don’t often use this camera on a tripod, but the remote release works fine. Curiously, I have seen comments on the net to the effect that this release only works on the Olympus E-series DSLRs.
General summary
This is an enjoyable camera to use, once you get used to its peculiarities – not that they are really peculiar – just different from other cameras I have used. It fills an important gap between the “go anywhere any-time” S95 and my DSLRs. I have not finally decided, but I shall probably sell the M7 and several lenses in due course. As to the future, I don’t expect to keep this camera forever. Someday, when it exists, I’ll be looking for something more like the Fuji X100, with interchangeable lenses, if it’s as agile as the E-P3.
If I think of anything else or change my views in any way, I’ll try to remember to update this.
Edit / Update: With the announcement of various new cameras (eg. the Fuji X Pro 1) that I suspect will be as good as or better than the E-P3 for my purposes, I have done an about turn and decided to hang on to the M7 for a while, and have managed to sell all this kit at virtually no loss - this before it's value starts to fall, which may be imminent. I'll wait to see how the new cameras fare in the real world, but early reviews look promising.
Last edited:
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
A very thorough review.
Your experience reflects mine as far as the versatility of the camera doing what it's designed to do, as a compact go to camera for most purposes.
You and I (and others) may get a real treat next year when Olympus released the next model with the rumored built in viewfinder. As far as the available lens selection, I think between Panasonic and Olympus, we have almost a complete system.
Your experience reflects mine as far as the versatility of the camera doing what it's designed to do, as a compact go to camera for most purposes.
You and I (and others) may get a real treat next year when Olympus released the next model with the rumored built in viewfinder. As far as the available lens selection, I think between Panasonic and Olympus, we have almost a complete system.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
If the E-P4 has a built in (and accurate) OVF or EVF and improved sensor, I may be tempted beyond resistance.
rbelyell
Well-known
great review. yours is almost the same as my ep2 that ive had for a couple of years now. it would be impossible without the evf, which i think is very good compared to others ive used, especially in low light. i actually like the fact that it hinges, as using it in 'waist level' mode often helps in street shooting because people dont think you are taking their picture!
i have had most of the AF lenses you mentioned and i also have the panny 20/1.7 which imo is much better in almost all respects than the olly 17/2.8. however, i use mine mostly with legacy lenses: its great with the snapshot skopar 25/4 and the cv color heliar 75/2.5 is outstanding. i have a set of schneider-K lenses for my retina reflex iv, and those are outstanding as well, though they are a 'slow' set. surprisingly i found my zeiss contax c/y lenses did not perform well.
i primarily used the olly as a compact alternative to my lovely 5d. i found i used the olly more and more because of the size, weight and relative unobtrusiveness of the rig. finally i traded my 5d for an x100, which does extraordinarily well what the olly does poorly: wide angle and low light. so they form a perfect complementary digital set for me.
btw, if you are looking for a fast 25mm lens, i have a lovely zeiss tevidon 25/1.4 that i had professionally matched to a c mount>m4/3 mount adapter to achieve infinity focus. it is perhaps one of the top c mount lenses, with all the typical zeiss resolution and 'pop'. let me know if that is intersting to you as i am strongly considering selling it in light of my x100 purchase.
tony
i have had most of the AF lenses you mentioned and i also have the panny 20/1.7 which imo is much better in almost all respects than the olly 17/2.8. however, i use mine mostly with legacy lenses: its great with the snapshot skopar 25/4 and the cv color heliar 75/2.5 is outstanding. i have a set of schneider-K lenses for my retina reflex iv, and those are outstanding as well, though they are a 'slow' set. surprisingly i found my zeiss contax c/y lenses did not perform well.
i primarily used the olly as a compact alternative to my lovely 5d. i found i used the olly more and more because of the size, weight and relative unobtrusiveness of the rig. finally i traded my 5d for an x100, which does extraordinarily well what the olly does poorly: wide angle and low light. so they form a perfect complementary digital set for me.
btw, if you are looking for a fast 25mm lens, i have a lovely zeiss tevidon 25/1.4 that i had professionally matched to a c mount>m4/3 mount adapter to achieve infinity focus. it is perhaps one of the top c mount lenses, with all the typical zeiss resolution and 'pop'. let me know if that is intersting to you as i am strongly considering selling it in light of my x100 purchase.
tony
JohnL
Very confused
Many thanks for the thought, but I think I'd better wait a while after buying all this kit!