Early Leitz lenses vs Russian Copies

[batterytypehah!]

Locking yourself into a single system only limits your options.

Which is precisely why you should pick an M mount body. Otherwise you'll be locked into screw mount lenses. Not disastrous, as limitations go, but a limitation nonetheless.

 

[FalseDigital]

I REALLY love my Jupiter-3.
I bought it from another RFF member and it shoots amazing.
This shot was taken w/ Black 1977 Jupiter-3 mounted to Voigtlander Bessa-R / Kodak Ektar film

Untitled by Graham Meyer, on Flickr

 

[FalseDigital]

Here's another example of my Jupiter-3

I don't think there's any need for me to buy another 50mm, this one suits me just fine. Too bad they don't make any fast 35mm FSU lenses 😛

 

[Pherdinand]

a bessa and a good lens is, imho, a better option than a leica with dingy optics. Jupiters can be good but they need some hunting, luck, or they will cost more.
Leicas are a bit too expensive lately. I could pick up a good working m2 with a collapsible summicron at 500 euro a few years ago but now that body alone would cost me 500.

But, if "ultimately" you want a leica, maybe it's better to get it NOW 😀

 

[p.giannakis]

I mount my Elmar on a FED-3. Works well for me.

 

[Stuart John]

clean looking FED3

 

[PatrickCheung]

I recently bought a J8 off ebay, expecting to clean and shim it so it works on my iif. There was a bit of grease and dirt on the barrel, but the glass was clean enough. There was a bubble in the front element, but as far as I know, the lens does what it needs to do and it has a look that I've come to admire. The photos are soft, but in a dreamy way. I'm not sure if this is because of the bubble, or if i got a bad copy, but i like it.

Here are a few shots taken with it

iif + J8 + portra 160VC

 

[ampguy]

some Elmar ('57 collapsible) 50/2.8 photos with UC100, Bessa R:

 

[Sonnar Brian]

Patrick- looks like more flare than what I get with my J-8's. You might want to check for haze on the surfaces each side of the aperture blades. The rear module unscrews easily.

Black J-8, on the M9.

 

[Eric T]

I agree with Raid. The glass and film are more important than the light-tight box that holds them.
Consider a Leica IIIf or a Bessa.

 

[FalseDigital]

Yeah that J8 up there looks a bit terrible IMO, I think you got a bad one.
Here's some samples from my Black 1975 J8 mounted to Bessa-R, Fuji Reala film (the weird squares in the frame is from the lab, their machine didn't develop my film properly and it left square marks on the negs, it's definitely not from the lens)

 

[cambolt]

Thanks very much for your input everyone. I think the best thing to do might be to save up a little more, maybe another 200 or so, and see if I can get an Elmar or something. But the J8 seems quite adequate. It just depends how cheap I can find the M2 or 3.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

Jupiter-3, wide-open at F1.5 on the Canon P.

Kodacolor 200

 

[kievman]

Get a bessaR or R2 and a good J8 or J3, for a starter set and consider Leica glass later. Personally I think the newer Leica glass is way over priced for the return on investment. My Helios 103 performs as well as any German glass I have owned and I only paid $27.00. U.S for it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The Helios 103 is incredible sharp, even wide open and has a lovely bokeh. but will only work on Kievs, Contaxs and Nikon RFs Good Luck - kievman

 

[sanmich]

a Bessa R and a Canon 50/f1.8 lens.
Rob

+1
Much better option...

 

[FalseDigital]

Here's some more J-3 Samples.
Bessa-R / 1977 Jupter-3 / Fuji Supera 400

 

[FalseDigital]

As you guys can see, I'm really rooting for the Jupiters! haha

 

[cambolt]

Well thank you for everyone's input!
Those of you who told me to get a bessa will be please to know that I have just purchased an M2 from a very nice member here 😛 😛 😛.
I should have enough for a J8 from fedka.
We'll see how things go.
Then you may laugh at me (perhaps)
I will post pictures 🙂