Jani_from_Finland
Well-known
Should I use a lower ISO value than the film is when developing in 1+100 Rodinal stand 60-120´.
Like FP4+ 125@80 or HP5+ 400@250 to get a full use of the negative with no blown highlights or totally dark shadows?
How can i get the most out of my film?
Have done stand dev 1+100 mainly in 120 minutes for different films and different EI and it all looks great, mostly 400 film shoot at 640-800-1000-1600-3200. looks ok, but doesnt seem to have a punch in them. It developes good and quite even, but doesnt looks as good as for example shooting Acros 100@80 or Trix 400@250 in Xtol, but i cant get all out of the negative with my shots in Xtol compared to dev in Rodinal/Adonal.
Can not show any examples, as i dont have any work online.
Like FP4+ 125@80 or HP5+ 400@250 to get a full use of the negative with no blown highlights or totally dark shadows?
How can i get the most out of my film?
Have done stand dev 1+100 mainly in 120 minutes for different films and different EI and it all looks great, mostly 400 film shoot at 640-800-1000-1600-3200. looks ok, but doesnt seem to have a punch in them. It developes good and quite even, but doesnt looks as good as for example shooting Acros 100@80 or Trix 400@250 in Xtol, but i cant get all out of the negative with my shots in Xtol compared to dev in Rodinal/Adonal.
Can not show any examples, as i dont have any work online.
Ronald M
Veteran
Get the most out of your film by following standard procedures.
But if you want to mess around and risk bromide streaks, just experiment.
Increase time to get more contrast. This is the same as push processing. You still will not get shadow detail no matter how long you process as it gets there by exposure.
The best negs are made by one stop over exposure and cutting standard development time by 20%, your standard development time. This cuts grain better than anything else also.
Fast film never look as good as slow films so matter what you do.
Do not wast time looking for some magic process. It does not exist.
But if you want to mess around and risk bromide streaks, just experiment.
Increase time to get more contrast. This is the same as push processing. You still will not get shadow detail no matter how long you process as it gets there by exposure.
The best negs are made by one stop over exposure and cutting standard development time by 20%, your standard development time. This cuts grain better than anything else also.
Fast film never look as good as slow films so matter what you do.
Do not wast time looking for some magic process. It does not exist.
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Stand development works fine for compensating exposures, and get nice loooong tonality negatives.
I used to love APX100 in Rodinal 1+200 for 120 minutes (or whatever a basketball game turned out to be) with prewetting (water for 2-3 minutes) and agitation for the 1st 30 seconds, and then in half time
I may have done it a few times with 400 films I have to look in my notes, but from memory HP5 in Rodinal works way better at 1+50+Vitamin C
A good explanation of this very old technique is here:
http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Mortensen/mortensen.html
I used to love APX100 in Rodinal 1+200 for 120 minutes (or whatever a basketball game turned out to be) with prewetting (water for 2-3 minutes) and agitation for the 1st 30 seconds, and then in half time
I may have done it a few times with 400 films I have to look in my notes, but from memory HP5 in Rodinal works way better at 1+50+Vitamin C
A good explanation of this very old technique is here:
http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Mortensen/mortensen.html
Pete B
Well-known
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
As said above, stand development is not the process to use to get negatives that has "punch" as it will produce "grey" or some say "flat" ones.
But another way to look at this is that now you have a negative that you can manipulate in darkroom printing a lot. This is a good thing if you like to experiment in the darkroom, or scanning if you are into digital post-processing.
Jani_from_Finland
Well-known
Very fine answers and about what i also thought of it.
Sometimes a little difficult to dress the right words of the issue searching answers of as english is not a native language for me.
Two nights i have souped a little different in three tanks, tonight more radical differances and now i have a better idea of this.
On one film i did 3 agitations about every 20' and that result is not in my like. A semi-stand of 60' with 2 agitations half-way and it looks quite nice. Think i have some good negs for next darkroom visit, but that will let it be shown.
Sometimes a little difficult to dress the right words of the issue searching answers of as english is not a native language for me.
Two nights i have souped a little different in three tanks, tonight more radical differances and now i have a better idea of this.
On one film i did 3 agitations about every 20' and that result is not in my like. A semi-stand of 60' with 2 agitations half-way and it looks quite nice. Think i have some good negs for next darkroom visit, but that will let it be shown.