nthearle
NickT
I'm sorry if this has been posted before but I wonder is it normal for the standard push on hood to obscure the bottom right of the highlighted frame in the viewfinder?
My cousin kindly gave me his late father-in-law's GT, complete with what looks like a correctly shaped Yashica push on rubber hood for a 45mm lens. The frame area does move as I alter the focus point and it just about clears the frame area when the rubber is rolled back at infinity. When extended at infnity though, it still protrudes into the framed area.
Regards
Nick
My cousin kindly gave me his late father-in-law's GT, complete with what looks like a correctly shaped Yashica push on rubber hood for a 45mm lens. The frame area does move as I alter the focus point and it just about clears the frame area when the rubber is rolled back at infinity. When extended at infnity though, it still protrudes into the framed area.
Regards
Nick
tunznath
Established
It is normal - my GTN hood does the same - it is the original from the boxed kit with the tripod and all the bits.
Peter_Jones
Well-known
I concur. Par for the course - well worth putting up with though for the results 
I don't notice it now on rangefinders, just mentally block it out (and often shoot with both eyes open)
I don't notice it now on rangefinders, just mentally block it out (and often shoot with both eyes open)nthearle
NickT
Thank you both for the information - most useful. Now that I know that even the original Yashica product blocks the view, I'm going to buy a suitable screw in rubber job. The Yashica push on hood just keeps falling off unless I use some of Mr Goodman's seal kit stuck inside to give it some grip.
I think it's now worth me risking putting a roll through this nice looking camera.
Forum members have reassured me that the clunk I get is normal and that seeing the hood in frame is OK too. I'm still doubtful about the metering, - no idea what shutter speed it's finally chosen - sounds a bit too quick for me, compared to other cameras which tell you F stop and and shutter speed but here goes. I spent a good hour cleaning out the rotted seals and replacing them with Jon Goodman's seal kit, so it's worth a few quid on a roll of something or other.
Off Topic - I wish I still had access to a darkroom and could remember how to develop, fix, print etc! I bought a Minox sub-min a few months back and then discovered that it would cost about £30 to get the film processed. I managed to buy a daylight developing tank for this for about £15, so I reckon I can produce my own negs with a bit of Googling, but after that for making prints I think I'm a bit stumped. I'll ask the youngsters at work about scanners - they're bound to know!
Thanks for your help rangefinder fans
Best regards
Nick
I think it's now worth me risking putting a roll through this nice looking camera.
Forum members have reassured me that the clunk I get is normal and that seeing the hood in frame is OK too. I'm still doubtful about the metering, - no idea what shutter speed it's finally chosen - sounds a bit too quick for me, compared to other cameras which tell you F stop and and shutter speed but here goes. I spent a good hour cleaning out the rotted seals and replacing them with Jon Goodman's seal kit, so it's worth a few quid on a roll of something or other.
Off Topic - I wish I still had access to a darkroom and could remember how to develop, fix, print etc! I bought a Minox sub-min a few months back and then discovered that it would cost about £30 to get the film processed. I managed to buy a daylight developing tank for this for about £15, so I reckon I can produce my own negs with a bit of Googling, but after that for making prints I think I'm a bit stumped. I'll ask the youngsters at work about scanners - they're bound to know!
Thanks for your help rangefinder fans
Best regards
Nick
Dfin
Well-known
Nick,you have the best value for money rangefinder ever made,bar none!! Check out The Yashica Guy`s web site,he has a section on DIY repairs, I sat down one evening and dismantled the top of my old GS,cleaned the viewfinder,replaced a seal,reglued the viewfinder glass and cleaned out some perished foam. It took approx.1&1/2 hrs. using small jewllers screw drivers and a pair of fine point circlip pliers that I bought at the local auto spares shop. Ok,I`m not the quickest repairer,but it was enjoyable and very satisfying. whilst in there I had a look at the P.O.D., which govens the metering(see Yashica Guy) and the wiring,very simple. Reassembled and works a treat,so have a go and enjoy,all the best Alan.