Elmar-M 50mm 2.8 II

Leica M3, Elmar-M 50mm f/2.8, TMY400/AdoxMCC110

Erik.

49411425512_342291691a_b.jpg
 
Great photos as usual Erik !
Re: the two Elmar versions: In my opinion the old one has better bokeh and less contrast, but in the sharpness comparison there is an abyss, the new one is far sharper wide open, than the old one at f 8.0.
 
Thank you, Marek, but the sharpness of the old Elmar f/2.8 is really as good. The sharpness of the old Elmar f/3.5 in M-mount is even better. Contrast is however more important for the quality of the image, so the Elmar-M is the best.

Erik.
 
While I have never shot with one, I have read nothing but praise for the Elmar 50/2.8 - seeing all the great images here makes me want one...
 
Erik van Straten said:
I have an Epson V600 scanner. You can adjust the histogram with the aid of a densitometer.

Erik.
Click to expand...
I don't want to hijack the thread but I was wondering if you ever print the scans from your V600? If so, how big, and how's the quality? I have one and am not very good at making scans with it.

Thanks
Joe
 
No, I never make prints from scans. I only make silver/gelatine prints with a Focomat IIc.

It is a bit too complicated to explain exactly how I make the scans. I make them in the professional modus. I use a "better scan" piece of anti-newton glass. I use the densitometer to find the lightest and darkest parts of the image. I choose 3200 dpi.

I clean the scan from dust in Photoshop. I sharpen it a bit. For web use I use the "save for web" option of Photoshop @ 1200. The results from this I reload in Photoshop to adapt the histogram a very little bit to make the darkest parts a bit darker, when needed.

For more details please PM me.

Erik.
 
Add me to the list blown away by your work here Erik. I think a thread dedicated to your processing and workflow would be highly educational. :)
 
Erik van Straten said:
No, I never make prints from scans. I only make silver/gelatine prints with a Focomat IIc.

It is a bit too complicated to explain exactly how I make the scans. I make them in the professional modus. I use a "better scan" piece of anti-newton glass. I use the densitometer to find the lightest and darkest parts of the image. I choose 3200 dpi.

I clean the scan from dust in Photoshop. I sharpen it a bit. For web use I use the "save for web" option of Photoshop @ 1200. The results from this I reload in Photoshop to adapt the histogram a very little bit to make the darkest parts a bit darker, when needed.

For more details please PM me.

Erik.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I will try again using your recommendations and PM you.

Thanks again

Joe
 
After going through this thread multiple times, I feel that I really need to find one of these lenses. I'm on the hunt.

Joe
 
I remember a few years ago ordering and paying for a new Elmar M from a well known online HK Supplier for about $750. A couple of days later an email arrived saying my money would be refunded as the lens was out of stock and the listing from his website was then removed. But amazingly several weeks later it reappeared with a $300 dearer pricetag. I spat the dummy and bought a like new Hex 50 2.4 collapsible for $500. It is a stellar lens and Erwin Puts certainly compared it favourably with the Elmar. I also have the 2 CV 50 collapsibles, the nickle 3.5 and the black f2 that came in a kit with the R2M 250 anniversary release. Both these are also terrific. Would still love to get a Elmar M so as to have a complete collection of the modern 50 collapsibles. But they have really gone up in price over the last couple of years. (p.s. Erik you certainly know how to use yours. Love your work.) Cheers, Alan
 
Thank you, Alan.

I bought mine ten years ago for 500 euro secondhand. The price since then has doubled because they are used on the digital M-bodies.

Erik.
 
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