dave lackey
Veteran
It’s been amazing watching your posts and the images have a consistency that is quite admirable!
Leica IIIc, 35mm f/3.5 Elmar
Inspiring, for sure.😃
Thanks!
Exposing Eastman (Double-X) 5222 in the Leica
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Inspiring, for sure.😃
Thanks!
dave lackey
Veteran
Update: July 1, 2023
Some people may wonder how long Eastman 5222 Double X will last sitting in a desk drawer not ever having been stored in a freezer.
For me, it will last a very long time!
Images from 2014 (low res from this same thread:
And from the same year, a leftover roll of Double X, shot with my Nikkormat FTN recently.
Some people may wonder how long Eastman 5222 Double X will last sitting in a desk drawer not ever having been stored in a freezer.
For me, it will last a very long time!
Images from 2014 (low res from this same thread:
And from the same year, a leftover roll of Double X, shot with my Nikkormat FTN recently.
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dave lackey
Veteran
I really see no difference except our granddaughter is 10 years older! LOL😂
I hope this gives others confidence to shoot more expired film.
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Nokton48
Veteran
LOL That film was prolly -expired- when I sent it to you Dave 🙂 But Three Bucks a roll back then
Is somebody here selling long ends and short ends?
Is somebody here selling long ends and short ends?
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ddutchison2
Well-known
Dave, great shots. May I ask about your developing specifics, these are tonally much nicer than what I often see from DoubleX. Thanks
dave lackey
Veteran
Yes, thanks, I will post it later today as I am in the middle of something needing my attention. In fact, there are two developing protocols I use now with Double X. I will dig those out shortly.
The first ones dated 2014 were, to the best of my memory, developed in D-76 and followed the Massive Development app for the appropriate temperature.
I have since modified that and will post the current protocol. 😃
dave lackey
Veteran
LOL, I thought you might get a kick out of seeing how the old film held up!😃
Nokton48
Veteran
Looks good!
dave lackey
Veteran
Okay, now I’m ready to try and explain what I know so far. LOL. I am still a work in progress with Double X.🙂 It sure is fun though!
These days, I use Ilford DD-X for various films as an easy, reliable one-shot developer and at times enjoy Adox Rodinal but I haven’t yet tried Rodinal with Double X yet.
I am working with EI 250 just as I was in 2014. Here is the protocol I have used this past year:
Developing Eastman 5222 XX (with Ilford DD-X)
EI = 250
Developer
Dilution: 1:4
Time: 7 min @ 68°F / 5min 45s @ 72°F
Agitation: 6 inversions first 30 seconds and 2 inversions each minute after that.
Stop Bath (Water only)
Time: 2 minutes
Agitation: 6 inversions first minute
Fixer
Ilford Rapid Fix
Dilution: 1:4
Time: 6 minutes
Agitation: 6 inversions first 30 seconds and 2 inversions each minute after that.
Wash
Water only
Agitation:
Fill Tank, 5 inversions and Dump
Fill Tank, 10 inversions and Dump
Fill Tank, 20 inversions and Dump
Fill Tank, 30 inversions and Dump
Fill Tank, 40 inversions and Dump
Then rinse 5 minutes. (Optional)
Photo Flo
Dilution: 5ml / 500ml water
Time: 2 minutes
Agitation: 3 inversions first 30 seconds.
Hang to dry. No squeegee or any touching with gloves to avoid scratches, etc.
***Note: this developing protocol is subject to change as time goes on.🙂
______________________________
The next roll of Double X I shoot will most likely be developed as Bingley has posted previously.😃
Please note, I am slowly changing one variable at a time. But I do like Bingley’s results:
From Steve MacFarlane (Bingley on RFF):
I exposed Cinestill XX at 200, even though I developed in Ilfotec DDX. That gives a small amount of overexposure.
Ilford DD-X 1:4 dilution.
7 min. @ 20°C
Once the chemistry is mixed up and the film in a two roll Patterson tank, I followed this procedure:
- Wash film in water for 1 minute, continuous agitation. Dump.
- Develop film following agitation procedures recommended for the developer. For DDX, Ilford recommends 4 inversions in the first ten seconds followed by 4 inversions on the minute thereafter. So that’s what I did. Dump the developer when done.
- Stop bath (Ilford Ilfostop), 25 seconds, continuous agitation; reuse the stop bath.
- Fixer (Ilford Rapid Fix), 5 minutes, following same agitation procedure as used w/ the developer; re-uese developer unless it’s over the hill.
- Wash film, 1 min., continuous agitation, then dump.
- Hypo clearing agent, 2 mins. w/ 15 secs continuous agitation on the minute.
- Rinse film, either 5 min. continuous agitation or the Ilford method. I use the Ilford method: 5 inversions, then dump; 10 inversions, then dump; 20 inversions, then dump. For the final 20 inversions, I use distilled water, to avoid water spots (I live in an area w/ fairly hard water).
- Foto-flow soak: soak each reel in distilled water w/ a few drops of Foto-flow (or Ilford equivalent), for a couple of minutes.
- Hang the film to dry.
_____________________________
Comments :
Scanning for me is kind of hard to explain. I look at the scans I obtain as raw files needing my own interpretation of what I want to see on the final scan which then goes to LR and then to Photoshop for final processing.
I tend to like a wide range of tones and, contrast and sharpness are what I like to see.
It is all subjective. Everyone has a preference each step along the way.
Good luck with your own journey. The experience is what I really enjoy as a true craft.
Dave
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ddutchison2
Well-known
Thank you for the full and interesting reply. Having just returned to film, it seems that what worked well for for me printing with an enlarger isn't always optimal for scanning. It's really helpful to have a starting point like this (based on observed results) to begin from.
dave lackey
Veteran
Well, I just loaded up another roll of expired Double X. I guess I saved a few back and I am just coming across them now.I hope your developing goes well. It does take some time to start somewhere and change one variable at a time. Once you get it all dialed in, it’s great!😃
So, I will go with the flow and see if my consistency holds up after shooting this roll. I think I need to head to the town square for a short walk around.
Nokton48
Veteran
The film base gets greyer and greyer as it ages. I've not had a roll I couldn't save I adjust everything anyway. Basically it makes it more difficult (but not impossible) to get good blacks in the images as it ages. So a dark grey is what I get when I wet print enlarging with olde XX. But easily adjustable so no big deal so far. I scan the silver prints and adjust them before posting. Works fine.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Thanks for your comment Dave.
I know there are better developers for Double-X than HC-110 when it comes to graininess. But I don't feel it interferes too much with the look I'm going for, particularly with the Living History photos.
Here's a couple more from the "Museum in Motion" event, 2 weeks ago,
Leica IIIc, 35mm f/3.5 Elmar
These were exposed using Sunny-f16, I find some of them turned out a little 'flat' contrast wise.
Nokton48
Veteran
My Mic-X Replenisher Scheme by Nokton48, on FlickrGallon of Legacy Mic-X from Freestyle, Gallon glass bottle from Photographer's Formulary. Mic-X Replenisher in 950ml bottles also PF. I mixed this stuff back in 2019 and it's still good! Although it needs to be filtered, I bought a box of lab filter paper in funnel. This is a SSSLLLLLOOOWWW developer I have gone as far as thirty minutes, it's hard to overdevelop to the point of ruining anything with cold olde Mic-X.
You lose speed with XX in Mic-X but I like the low contrast tonality. I go one speed step slower, and use Sunny F11 instead of F16. Extra exposure can be printed through with this method. Think "Pull Processing".
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Nokton48
Veteran
Current SRT Shooters by Nokton48, on FlickrFrom Bottom Left, XK with Waist Level Finder for Horizontal shots, 21mm F4 MC Rokkor with Yashica 21mm Finder (for vertical shots). Behind that, 21mm F2.8 MC Rokkor switch out for low light. Even more low light, Black SRT101 Griptac Black 58mm F1.2 MC Rkoor with Minolta Yellow and Correct Hood. All these cameras are loaded with Eastman XX. Back far right, the SRT100 Green Kangaroo 100mm F2 Very Early Not MC Rokkor. Used with stop-down metering. Also Butter 3D Printed Grip on SRT100. The SRT100 is loaded with Ilford HP5+ Push Processed to EI 3200, exposed at EI 1600. All cameras have TomA Softies, Hairties, Minolta SRT Diopters installed, Original SRT Rubber Eyecups, Original Correct SRT Lenshoods. Current SRT Shooters. The XK is shaped a lot like the SRTs.
PRJ
Another Day in Paradise
Still loving this thread. Hard to believe it is still going after all these years!
XX/Rodinal/M3/Converted Pentax-M 50mm 1.4
XX/Rodinal/M3/Converted Pentax-M 50mm 1.4
dave lackey
Veteran
Hair ties? Maybe I need one of those…🤷🏼♂️
From Bottom Left, XK with Waist Level Finder for Horizontal shots, 21mm F4 MC Rokkor with Yashica 21mm Finder (for vertical shots). Behind that, 21mm F2.8 MC Rokkor switch out for low light. Even more low light, Black SRT101 Griptac Black 58mm F1.2 MC Rkoor with Minolta Yellow and Correct Hood. All these cameras are loaded with Eastman XX. Back far right, the SRT100 Green Kangaroo 100mm F2 Very Early Not MC Rokkor. Used with stop-down metering. Also Butter 3D Printed Grip on SRT100. The SRT100 is loaded with Ilford HP5+ Push Processed to EI 3200, exposed at EI 1600. All cameras have TomA Softies, Hairties, Minolta SRT Diopters installed, Original SRT Rubber Eyecups, Original Correct SRT Lenshoods. Current SRT Shooters. The XK is shaped a lot like the SRTs.
dave lackey
Veteran
Just now finishing a roll of Double X in the plastic fantastic F80! It sure is easy to quickly shoot through a short roll with that little camera.😊
I will wait awhile to shoot a roll of Double X with the M2… I’m still working on a project with different film. But I can order some fresh rolls now and I will be ready. Until then, more exposed rolls need developing.🙂
I will wait awhile to shoot a roll of Double X with the M2… I’m still working on a project with different film. But I can order some fresh rolls now and I will be ready. Until then, more exposed rolls need developing.🙂
dave lackey
Veteran
Yikes!!!
I just came across this bit of Eastman 5222 Double X history:
Psycho was shot on 5222/7223 film!😲
shotonwhat.com
I just came across this bit of Eastman 5222 Double X history:
Psycho was shot on 5222/7223 film!😲
Psycho (1960)
Psycho (1960) tech specs : shot on Mitchell BNC Camera - Directed by Alfred Hitchcock with Cinematography by John L. Russell - The Motion Picture & Television Technical Database
shotonwhat.com
