Tom A
RFF Sponsor
This is XX in Pyrocat HD - 15 min with normal agitation and XX rated at 320.. Nokton 50mm f1.5 Ltm, M2.
Exposing Eastman (Double-X) 5222 in the Leica
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This is XX in Pyrocat HD - 15 min with normal agitation and XX rated at 320.. Nokton 50mm f1.5 Ltm, M2.
dave lackey
Veteran
My one and only question for the day.:angel:
As I am about to shoot my first roll of XX...thanks, Dan!...what ISO do you guys recommend? I have the iphone app with the data set up for D76 because that is all I have on hand for a developer.
Using the M3, 50mm Nokton 1.5, and a Leica MR4 meter.
Thanks in advance, you guys are so far over my head that I am sure to have many more dumb questions about this film as I get into it!🙂
As I am about to shoot my first roll of XX...thanks, Dan!...what ISO do you guys recommend? I have the iphone app with the data set up for D76 because that is all I have on hand for a developer.
Using the M3, 50mm Nokton 1.5, and a Leica MR4 meter.
Thanks in advance, you guys are so far over my head that I am sure to have many more dumb questions about this film as I get into it!🙂
sepiareverb
genius and moron
I like to rate XX at 200 Dave, but I run it in HC110b or Rodinal. I find I get better shadow detail in my darkroom that way.
taskoni
Well-known
I still struggle to find the best way to expose it/develop it. I tend to overexpose it a lot shooting it @ 250 asa in D-76 1:1 🙁
Today I ran test by reduced the time given for D-76 1:1 (10min.) to 9 min. and still the negs looks overexposed by 1 1/2 stop 😕 even the portraits I shot in the shadows were overexposed.
Now in Bristol is really sunny and warm and the day is pretty long...
I'll try tomorrow 8min. and see if it'll make a difference.
Regards,
Boris
Today I ran test by reduced the time given for D-76 1:1 (10min.) to 9 min. and still the negs looks overexposed by 1 1/2 stop 😕 even the portraits I shot in the shadows were overexposed.
Now in Bristol is really sunny and warm and the day is pretty long...
I'll try tomorrow 8min. and see if it'll make a difference.
Regards,
Boris
SyPat
Established
dave lackey
Veteran
Hmmm. Bobby that would be great, let us know how that works out!
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Depends who one asks.
From the MSDS quoted above:
The EU seems to find it somewhat more problematic, but comparing to the ingredients in D76 via an MSDS from Kodak via Freestyle at least one component of D76 doesn't seem significantly different. Again, my opinion. Granted there are more ingredients in D76, so those ingredients are less concentrated than straight pyro. Read the MSDS sheets for the chemicals you use, know how to handle what you use properly, and determine what risk you find acceptable.
Nokton48
Veteran
StoneNYC
Infrequent Visitor
Bright sun, 1/250@f/11 ...
You're basically effectively shooting it at EI 200 using sunny 16 🙂
Just saying lol
~Stone | Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
You're basically effectively shooting it at EI 200 using sunny 16 🙂
Just saying lol
~Stone | Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
Nokton48
Veteran
Correct. Often I find the added exposure to be the better results for me.
YMMV.
Effectively I am shooting at EI200, EI100, & EI50. One of the exposures is always correct. This is my bulletproof method for XX success.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
ISO 200 for me as well, and I prefer XX with a yellow filter.
Relayer
Newbie
Someone have experience with pulling Double-X to EI 50 or 100?
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
My base exposure for XX is around 320 iso - but as it is mostly shot as a sunny f16 so there are variables. XX has a pretty amazing latitude - almost a Verichrome Pan style. In the shade I usually rate it at 250 or even 200 - mainly for shadow details. I tend to use MQ type developers or Pyrocat HD. XX also works very well in split developers (Td 201, divided D76 etc) - highlights stay within the range and shadow details still gives good details. Rodinal and HC 110 is a bit to "harsh" for my taste - but works with extreme sharpness - and grain!
Nokton48
Veteran
I am not intentionally "pulling" my XX, but I suspect that is what is happening when I develop in straight Microdol-X (available as Freestyle Legacy Pro). As mentioned above my particular technique is to expose 1/250 @ F11 on a key day, then I shoot a second, adding a stop. Often I will shoot a third, adding two stops, just to be sure. Microdol-X is generally thought of as a speed reducing developer, anyway.
I have not been disappointed so far. What can I say? Works well for long-scale subjects and difficult lighting.
I have not been disappointed so far. What can I say? Works well for long-scale subjects and difficult lighting.
timor
Well-known
Depends how you use HC110 with DXN, effect of this developer doesn't have to be grainy and harsh at all. If HC110 is harsh on DXN, which is a low contrast film, what about TX, which has "normal" contrast ?
dave lackey
Veteran
OK, here we go...XX loaded in the M3!
What ISO should I be shooting? Seems I remember 320...or was it 200?😕 I reckon I will go with 250 as it is cloudy lately...not as much sun as usual. How about indoors? Can I stick with 250 or should I drop to 200?
Anyway, I am really looking forward to seeing how this film and the 50mm Nokton 1.5 get along.
What ISO should I be shooting? Seems I remember 320...or was it 200?😕 I reckon I will go with 250 as it is cloudy lately...not as much sun as usual. How about indoors? Can I stick with 250 or should I drop to 200?
Anyway, I am really looking forward to seeing how this film and the 50mm Nokton 1.5 get along.
StoneNYC
Infrequent Visitor
200 daylight, 250 tungsten (indoor old school filament bulb not compact florescent).
~Stone | Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
Nokton48
Veteran
Dave,
I guess I work differently than some others here. When I expose XX in full sun, I have found that I get the best looking negatives shooting 1/250 at F/11, so that is what I set my camera to. If the light is getting orangish or I am shooting under tungsten lighting, remember the ISO of XX drops from 250 to 200, according to Kodak, so you will have to add exposure. This film is not expensive when you consider that you can get 80 rolls from a 400 foot can, so I splurge and shoot three exposures, if the subject is static. For non-repeatable fleeting events, I would tend to add the one stop and get the detail on the film.
I make an exposure at 1/250 at F/11, then open a stop and shoot another. Sometimes I will even open another stop, and make a third exposure. Is this crazy? I don't think so, because I am giving myself a choice of negatives (to scan or wet print), and in my opinion, XX handles overexposure very well. The point is, on every roll, I always have negatives with great shadow detail, even if the meter is reading off in whatever camera I am using. I can choose the best negative after development.
I have used this technique for over three years with XX, and have not been disappointed. I have used D-76 type Developer (Adox Borax MQ), HC-110 and Rodinal mixed together, Dr. Blood's developer, and now I am using straight Microdol-X (Freestyle Legacy) and replenishing it. I get the same results with all these developers, with minor variations.
One more point. XX is a 1950's emulsion formulation (first manufactured in the late 1950's), and it is an inherently grainy emulsion. If you do not like grain, you will not like it. I happen to like grain, and the "retro" look of this film. It's cool that it's still being made after all this time.
I just processed eight more rolls of XX in straight Microdol-X, and I still stand by these techniques. They work for me.
I guess I work differently than some others here. When I expose XX in full sun, I have found that I get the best looking negatives shooting 1/250 at F/11, so that is what I set my camera to. If the light is getting orangish or I am shooting under tungsten lighting, remember the ISO of XX drops from 250 to 200, according to Kodak, so you will have to add exposure. This film is not expensive when you consider that you can get 80 rolls from a 400 foot can, so I splurge and shoot three exposures, if the subject is static. For non-repeatable fleeting events, I would tend to add the one stop and get the detail on the film.
I make an exposure at 1/250 at F/11, then open a stop and shoot another. Sometimes I will even open another stop, and make a third exposure. Is this crazy? I don't think so, because I am giving myself a choice of negatives (to scan or wet print), and in my opinion, XX handles overexposure very well. The point is, on every roll, I always have negatives with great shadow detail, even if the meter is reading off in whatever camera I am using. I can choose the best negative after development.
I have used this technique for over three years with XX, and have not been disappointed. I have used D-76 type Developer (Adox Borax MQ), HC-110 and Rodinal mixed together, Dr. Blood's developer, and now I am using straight Microdol-X (Freestyle Legacy) and replenishing it. I get the same results with all these developers, with minor variations.
One more point. XX is a 1950's emulsion formulation (first manufactured in the late 1950's), and it is an inherently grainy emulsion. If you do not like grain, you will not like it. I happen to like grain, and the "retro" look of this film. It's cool that it's still being made after all this time.
I just processed eight more rolls of XX in straight Microdol-X, and I still stand by these techniques. They work for me.
dave lackey
Veteran
So, the intro to Casino Royale was shot on XX film...with the results in that intro this film is magnificent!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNvzNWuzI9Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNvzNWuzI9Y
S
squareshooter
Guest
I remember Super XX sold by Kodak for still photography. This was in the 1950s, before Plus X. Movie film is a different animal and its requirements may or may not fit a still photographer.