Exposing Eastman (Double-X) 5222 in the Leica

Nokton48 said:
...how did you add the DDX and HC110?...
Click to expand...

I made enough for deep tank development of 8x10 sheet film although I frequently use this for 35mm.

Modified TD201
Developer A
D23 stock 4 liters
DDX concentrate 1 liter
HC110 syrup 1 473ml/16fl oz bottle
Water to make about 20 liters (in IKEA Samla 6 Gallon tubs, double stacked for added rigidity)

This makes up the new stock solution. Kept in the dark with a floating lid, it's still good more than six months later.
Dilution is 1+2 for the working solution.
For ISO rating at 250~400 - Developing time is 2 minutes at 30 deg C, agitate for the first 30 seconds only.
For 800 ISO rating, 2mins 30 secs (if you do this, give more time in Solution B).

Solution B
Same components as given in the Darkroom Cookbook.
Double the concentration as required, depending on taste.
I steep my film in it for 3 minutes, no agitation.

Caveat: A LOT of testing is needed to adapt this to anyone else's darkroom environment although establishing a usable development schedule is not completely a stab in the dark. FWIW it is possible to develop by (brief) inspection using the light from a cell phone covered in dark green cellophane.
More on DBI here.. Developing by Inspection by Michael A. Smith
 
funkydog said:
I made enough for deep tank development of 8x10 sheet film although I frequently use this for 35mm.
Click to expand...

I have just started using TD-201 (straight) and running through a variety of films. Orwo next on the list. I found no Flickr group so started one for TD-201.
Could I ask you to add your shots to the group please?
http://www.flickr.com/groups/td-201/

Thank you very much for the detail. Very interesting and a lovely result, which is what matters 😀
 
funkydog said:
I made enough for deep tank development of 8x10 sheet film although I frequently use this for 35mm.

Modified TD201
Developer A
D23 stock 4 liters
DDX concentrate 1 liter
HC110 syrup 1 473ml/16fl oz bottle
Water to make about 20 liters (in IKEA Samla 6 Gallon tubs, double stacked for added rigidity)

This makes up the new stock solution. Kept in the dark with a floating lid, it's still good more than six months later.
Dilution is 1+2 for the working solution.
For ISO rating at 250~400 - Developing time is 2 minutes at 30 deg C, agitate for the first 30 seconds only.
For 800 ISO rating, 2mins 30 secs (if you do this, give more time in Solution B).

Solution B
Same components as given in the Darkroom Cookbook.
Double the concentration as required, depending on taste.
I steep my film in it for 3 minutes, no agitation.

Caveat: A LOT of testing is needed to adapt this to anyone else's darkroom environment although establishing a usable development schedule is not completely a stab in the dark. FWIW it is possible to develop by (brief) inspection using the light from a cell phone covered in dark green cellophane.
More on DBI here.. Developing by Inspection by Michael A. Smith
Click to expand...

Thank you for supplying this information to this thread.
 
I got a roll of this pre rolled from the FPP just to see if I would like it.

Shot with my M2, Summicron 50 and souped in Xtol stock for 7min.

I found it to be more flat than usual still films. This can only be explained because in film and video images should be shot flat to retain as much shadow detail as possible. This benefits when compositing and color grading comes into play. In my case a little bit of levels and it looks great. Very forgiving film. I found that I could vary my "exposure" in my scans and not lose quality as much as other still films.

Im looking now into buying and bulk loading myself. I think it should replace the need to have other films filling my freezer. This film seems to perform great from iso 200-1600 with proper development.


Untitled by nownownownow, on Flickr

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Untitled by nownownownow, on Flickr[/IMG]


Untitled by nownownownow, on Flickr
 
Double X rated at 320 developed in D23 two bath. First bath is stock D23 for 3.5 -4 min. with constant agitation and the 2 nd bath is 20grams of Borax/1000 ml (made fresh for each run) for 3 min. stand
M2 and Summicron 50mm f2.0 Dual range @ f16. The original excessive menu - a Mercury Univex.
This is after 45 rolls of film through the 2000 ml of stock. I replenish with 20 ml/roll and when the 1000 ml of replenisher is used up I mix up a new batch. You can get 55 - 60 rolls through with no discernible loss of quality. I did calculate that it costs me about 6 cents/roll to use!
 
About time this thread had a bump 😀

This in TD-201 3min A & 3min B Nikon S3 with Color Skopar 50mm f2.5

St.Annes, seaside town in Lancashire UK, a rather ornate, recently repainted drinking fountain.

10087813164_0c754c3991_c.jpg



Same film details, I was on the Voigtlander SC 21mm f4 here.

10088000885_bb00196ef1_c.jpg
 
The more I use TD-201 the more I like it, it pulls a lovely tonal range out of XX.

Nikon S3 Color Skopar 50mm f2.5, 3minsA & 3minsB
Note to self: carry a yellow filter.
Steamer, not really they just call them that, Lake Windermere UK Lake District.

10158706384_a3fb669188_c.jpg
 
Processed another roll today. Wanted to see how DoubleX did @200 semi stand developed. Got a few good keepers out of 15 shots on the roll. But a lot of shots were just toasted. Does this sound right?

Blazinal 1:100 agitate 45 seconds start sit 30 min agitate 1min sit 30 min? Either that or maybe I'm just overexposing a lot but I was using my VC-II meter just to be "sure"

Should have just trusted myself and went sunny 16 :bang:

One good one. still overexposed but saved.


Untitled by nownownownow, on Flickr
 
Been playing around with test rolls all afternoon yesterday. Started this morning with Tom's 25min agitate at 5 + 15 min. Got a decent image but felt like it may have been a little thin. Though edge markings match fairly well those of my tmax and plus X ive successfully developed.

I just did a roll through at 30 min agitate at 5 + 15. I think for me I need that extra 5 minutes of stand.

Neg came out flat but with good density. At first thought I flubbed the exposure or got the wrong time again but upon closer look a lot of detail remains. Drying now, we shall see how it scans.
 
Here they are. Can anyone think of any suggestions as to get these looking a little less flat. I like the punchiness of the previous neg I posted but when developed the neg looks so thick it just seems wrong. I almost feel like the mid tones are chunky or something. Thoughts?

10254247805_9ae9e53351_c.jpg


No award winning shots here or nothing, just test shots. Also if someone could post up just a picture of their neg developed on a lightbox or against a window I would be interested to see your densities.
 
I'm so excited, I just put in an order for a 400' roll of XX from Kodak. The current price plus shipping is about $200. And my AFLOO should be coming any day now - I've been building wrist strength by hand loading using an AGRIF & IXMOOs.
 
Similarly, I've just ordered 6 loads of 400 ft to split with friends. My big worry is that I need some 100ft reels to spool them onto. Anyone have some spare reels left over from Legacy Pro or something?
 
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