Extreme Developing: Guess the Time/Temp!

jja

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If you'd like background see my previous post on HC-110, but it's not really needed.

Details: HP5+ shot at 400
This is a strraight scan, about half the frame, with standard scanner settings (KM SD IV), no post-processing.

Comment on the tonal values if you like, guess the time and temp, and weigh in if you think shorter/longer times and the corresponding temps make a difference. I'll post the info in 24 hours.

Edit: This is dilution B (1:31).

The Photo:
 

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Another photo (these are not works of art, just little tests):
 

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No takers? Well, in case anyone is remotely interested, this was a throw-away roll of film--it had been sitting around for a long time, it was badly loaded onto the reel--so I decided to experiment. Water temp is from the tap in hot, hot Austin, Texas, and I went with Dil. B (1:31) just to see what would happen.

Recommended development for HP5+ @400 in HC-110 Dil. B is 6:00 at 68 deg. F, but my tap was coming out at 81 deg.! The time/temp chart I have does not even list a recommended time.

So I tried what I thought the minimum for development at such a hi temp:

2:30 at 81 deg.
 
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The tonal values in the first photo looks really good.
 
Yup, sounds about right - HP5 is indetructible.

This was the first film I developed myself so so long ago in April and it's defeated my dodgy tempreture keeping and time keeping.
 
kully said:
Yup, sounds about right - HP5 is indetructible.

This was the first film I developed myself so so long ago in April and it's defeated my dodgy tempreture keeping and time keeping.

Ha, ha. If there were a book called "Developing for Dummies" (there probably is), maybe HP5+ would be the recommended film.
 
:D :D look good to my eye, btw how come I feel everytime I shoot black and white it is overexposed? :)
With my Nikon F6, with my FM3a, With my ZI, when i shoot BW I set exposire to -1 or -2, whats up? :D
 
Nachkebia said:
:D :D look good to my eye, btw how come I feel everytime I shoot black and white it is overexposed? :)
With my Nikon F6, with my FM3a, With my ZI, when i shoot BW I set exposire to -1 or -2, whats up? :D


That's funny, w/ my FM3a and M6, I tend to underexpose, so I always go to +1. My M4 + Sekonic L208 seem to work perfectly together. Maybe our metered cameras need calibration, or maybe we have different scanners that interpret our negs differently? In the little wet-darkroom printing I've done, underexposure was not a problem.
 
Strange, Strange, It might be my scanner though! but, but! my slides are always underexposed, is there anyway I can check exposure without scaning it? :D
 
I think tetrisattack had a good suggestion in his response #18 in yesterday's HC-110 discussion--shoot grey cards and determine the best exposure values for your particular equipment. I imagine that you can then apply those values to your slide exposures?
 
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