jja
Well-known
If you'd like background see my previous post on HC-110, but it's not really needed.
Details: HP5+ shot at 400
This is a strraight scan, about half the frame, with standard scanner settings (KM SD IV), no post-processing.
Comment on the tonal values if you like, guess the time and temp, and weigh in if you think shorter/longer times and the corresponding temps make a difference. I'll post the info in 24 hours.
Edit: This is dilution B (1:31).
The Photo:
Details: HP5+ shot at 400
This is a strraight scan, about half the frame, with standard scanner settings (KM SD IV), no post-processing.
Comment on the tonal values if you like, guess the time and temp, and weigh in if you think shorter/longer times and the corresponding temps make a difference. I'll post the info in 24 hours.
Edit: This is dilution B (1:31).
The Photo:
Attachments
jja
Well-known
jja
Well-known
No takers? Well, in case anyone is remotely interested, this was a throw-away roll of film--it had been sitting around for a long time, it was badly loaded onto the reel--so I decided to experiment. Water temp is from the tap in hot, hot Austin, Texas, and I went with Dil. B (1:31) just to see what would happen.
Recommended development for HP5+ @400 in HC-110 Dil. B is 6:00 at 68 deg. F, but my tap was coming out at 81 deg.! The time/temp chart I have does not even list a recommended time.
So I tried what I thought the minimum for development at such a hi temp:
2:30 at 81 deg.
Recommended development for HP5+ @400 in HC-110 Dil. B is 6:00 at 68 deg. F, but my tap was coming out at 81 deg.! The time/temp chart I have does not even list a recommended time.
So I tried what I thought the minimum for development at such a hi temp:
2:30 at 81 deg.
Last edited:
R
Rich Silfver
Guest
The tonal values in the first photo looks really good.
kully
Happy Snapper
Yup, sounds about right - HP5 is indetructible.
This was the first film I developed myself so so long ago in April and it's defeated my dodgy tempreture keeping and time keeping.
This was the first film I developed myself so so long ago in April and it's defeated my dodgy tempreture keeping and time keeping.
jja
Well-known
kully said:Yup, sounds about right - HP5 is indetructible.
This was the first film I developed myself so so long ago in April and it's defeated my dodgy tempreture keeping and time keeping.
Ha, ha. If there were a book called "Developing for Dummies" (there probably is), maybe HP5+ would be the recommended film.
Nachkebia
Well-known
With my Nikon F6, with my FM3a, With my ZI, when i shoot BW I set exposire to -1 or -2, whats up?
jja
Well-known
Nachkebia said:![]()
look good to my eye, btw how come I feel everytime I shoot black and white it is overexposed?
With my Nikon F6, with my FM3a, With my ZI, when i shoot BW I set exposire to -1 or -2, whats up?![]()
That's funny, w/ my FM3a and M6, I tend to underexpose, so I always go to +1. My M4 + Sekonic L208 seem to work perfectly together. Maybe our metered cameras need calibration, or maybe we have different scanners that interpret our negs differently? In the little wet-darkroom printing I've done, underexposure was not a problem.
Nachkebia
Well-known
Strange, Strange, It might be my scanner though! but, but! my slides are always underexposed, is there anyway I can check exposure without scaning it? 
jja
Well-known
I think tetrisattack had a good suggestion in his response #18 in yesterday's HC-110 discussion--shoot grey cards and determine the best exposure values for your particular equipment. I imagine that you can then apply those values to your slide exposures?
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