Factory-made or home-made chemicals?

It really depends on where you live - ......

Here at the end of the Earth (Australia), some items have become unavailable (e.g. HC-110), so to become somewhat independent, I make up two film developers, Pyrocat-HD for nearly everything and ID-68 for available light photos. ID-78 is the only paper developer I'll ever need. I buy fixer (Kodak Flexicolor or Fujifilm equivalent) but am close to buying 25kg of sodium thiosulphate and some more sodium sulphite to make paper fixer as the C-41 chems are becoming hard to get (and priced to match their scarcity).
 
My supplier in Ukraine does the same. Pyrocat-HD in Glycol, ID-68, ID-78 warm tone paper developer. In fixer TF-2 (Alkaline) and OrWo/Agfa 304 (Acid) so it is already available for export. He can also offer self made R09 but the Compard Rodinal/R09 I think the product in bulk is made by Tetenal now, they are selling it themselves under Paranol-S (S=Sharp). On the other hand Tetenal stopped making powder type product under their own label, like Emofin 2-bath. This original formulae is from 1929. Also new their "environment friendly" Eukobrom AC, Hydroquinone free, based on Ascorbic Acid however the product is "finished" in my Nova vertical processor within 2 1/2 weeks and above ID-78 can stay 5 weeks, Dektol D-72 even 6 weeks. So not every change is always better ......
Further any Hydroquinone type (paper) developer you can replenish after 4-5 weeks which seems to be impossible with that Eukobrom AC. When making it yourself, yes more then 20x cheaper then the ready made Tetenal product then.
 
For the past five years, I've been using D-23. Simple to mix, reliable, and not available commercially. I also mix, and use, Beutler on occasion. Normal workflow is Tri-X and D-23 - two to six rolls a week. I know what this combination will, and will not, do. As to mixing time, the longest part of the process is heating distilled water.
 
You can dissolve chemicals very easily in an ultrasonic bath. Today you can buy such a device for less then Eur. 25,- or so. The same for an electronic 100mg balance, same price or less.

But in general I can agree it depends where you live. I would do the same when I was living in Australia. Maybe import my own films from the USA or Europe or buy in one packet cheap but good quality cine film from OrWo Filmotec (UN54-N74+) or Kodak (Double-X) in 122m/400ft cans. In worst case you can fix in concentrated Sea water. 🙂
 
Ordering R09/Rodinal Compard in Germany in 5 ltr. cans the price of the product will be around Eur. 5,00 / liter excl. German 19% VAT. But then you have a volume for approx. 1000 B&W films. Use it up within 5 years it is still 200 films each year for R09/Rodinal only development. 🙂 Too much for most analogue photographers .....

It is a matter of calculation. If you take into account the necessary investment (scales, vessels, funnels, chemicals etc.) at the beginning, you are right. But after this, home-made chemicals are cheaper. I have spent about 130 US dollars for starting, and now I mix Parodinal at 1/4th price. In addition, mixing chemicals is a great joy for me.
 
The practical problem with making R09 (Calbe) yourself is that you have a step where you have to cool down the chemicals due to the exothermic reaction of the KOH.
It is like making Nitroglycerin, if you don't cool it down it will explode. 🙂

Further the ingredients for R09 are not very cheap. So the cost saving is less then other type developers which you can make yourself.
 
Making p-aminophenol developers (Rodinal) from scratch is not worth it IMO. Many Rodinal-like brews are available for cheap, although I fear none has the quality of the Leverkusen original anymore.
 
Making p-aminophenol developers (Rodinal) from scratch is not worth it IMO. Many Rodinal-like brews are available for cheap, although I fear none has the quality of the Leverkusen original anymore.

Zorkikat has been mixing Parodinal (a paracetamol-based Rodinal clone) for many years. In his opinion, there is no real difference. See his post here (the last one)
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68806
I have little experience since I mixed my version not long ago.
 
I still have some reference original Rodinal, 125ml Agfa Photo (end 2003) and 125ml Agfa (1999) and given 1/2 year ago an unopened Agfa Rodinal 500ml around 1975.

There are some very small differences even with Rodinal and Rodinal 5 years old which I have done a sensiometric test around 2007 with APX-100 (Agfa Leverkusen).
I also tested at that time R09/Calbe Fomadon R09. The differences are very small in grain Calbe a tick more grain then the original Rodinal (Agfa).

If you have interest I can publish the original R09 Calbe version for making yourself. It is published in the Udo Raffay German language famous book Fotografischer Rezepte.
 
I have one of the earliest Rollei R09 One Shot bottles presumably still made in Veihingen-Enz, later they transferred the production to Tetenal as did Adox. Adox claim their Adonal is Rodinal. Compard R09 One Shot should be similar, the msds for the two developers are not identical though. None is bottled under inert gas as was the case with Rodinal. I agree that results should be close if not the same to the untrained eye - I don't have a densitometer FWIW.
 
First A&O took the chemical plant in Vaihingen-Enz. Then CPP&S an UK company. Now the R09/Rodinal is made by Tetenal, they introduced their own Paranol-S (Rodinal) too. Correct about the Nitrogen refilling which was done by Agfa (Photo) and A&O/CPP&S.
But again: The differences are small, just measurable with a densitometer. In my Flickr stream you can see the differences, enlarged from 35mm and 2x extra enlarged on the photos/scanner to see the grain differences. The R09/Rodinal in a good bottle, Paranol-S or R09 Compard is still cheap.🙂
 
Mix own. Always fresh. Can mix liter of D76 for $1 and toss it if it goes bad.

I used to mix Leica two part that worked well before they went to thin emulsion films.
Since given up on it
 
The reasons given for mixing your own are all valid and admirable, and I do plan to try a few things myself, but it seems to be something of a double edged sword. When we say that factory developers are "overpriced", we are really only saying "cost more than I feel like paying". They are not "overpriced". If they were, other manufacturers would be rushing in as new competitors to take advantage of this earnings bonanza. I look at it as the film side of production and sales supporting the continued existence of the chemical side, and vice versa. It is in my best interest to support the manufacturers by buying their products; I'm not doing that to help them, I'm doing it to help me.
If a company is profitable enough to remain in business by making and providing both film and chemicals, and then tomorrow nobody bought chemicals from them, they must do one of two things, either raise the prices of their film stocks, as we have seen, or go out of business entirely. There is no free lunch..if they can't make money on one side of the business, they need to raise the prices on the goods on the other side, it is not unrelated.
I'm not shilling for Kodak, Fuji, or Ilford, but we can't complain --and we do--about the rising costs of film, or the loss of certain emulsion, if we don't support them; and they need our money, not our moral support, in order to continue to be there for us.
Please understand, I'm not disagreeing with anyone here, just mentioning what goes through my mind when I place an order for D-76 or HC-110, which isn't even all that expensive to begin with, given what I can do with it.
 
Hate to tell you this but Kodak hasn't made any chemicals in years neither has Ilford. Fuji makes some chemicals but they are rarely sold outside of Japan. So if you wan to support the chemical side support Moersch,Tetenal and Champion.

Also people mix chemicals because the developer they want or need are no longer made by the original manufacturer or were never available as premade product.

Kodak, Ilford, Agfa, etc... used to publish their formulas, premade chemicals are a fairly new (still a few decades) thing.

If you want to support film mfg. buy film everything else isn't made by the film companies anymore. So no relation between film prices and chemicals.
 
Hate to tell you this but Kodak hasn't made any chemicals in years neither has Ilford. <snip>

If you want to support film mfg. buy film everything else isn't made by the film companies anymore. So no relation between film prices and chemicals.

I am well aware of where the actual manufacturing is done, so I might have been more clear. None of that changes the fact that when you buy D-76 it supports the film manufacturing side of Kodak, because it supports Kodak. There's no way around that. But, whatever.
 
It is still the same. Compard KG is a company of the son of Hartmuth Schroeder. He was till 2012 CEO of Maco Photo products. L.P. Labor Partner was his former commercial name together with the German Photo chemist Udo Raffay. Raffay made the CG-512 (R.L.S. now); Film Low Gamma (R.L.C. now) and other products like the Rollei wetting agent. Further an OEM agreement with the Dutch Amaloco Photochemical factory, Ommen, the Nertherlands. All very good photo products for a reasonable price. L.P. Supergrain was AM74, a very populair Amaloco film developer. Later also in the Rollei assortment.
 
I agree with the poster above that once you have a stock of chemicals you don't run out. That makes it much more convenient than ordering pre-packaged. No special tools needed. I use a cheap pocket scale and mix in a plastic measuring cup. I buy the distilled water from the grocery store because the chemicals seem to keep better than with my well water.

I'm mostly using D-76 but when I was printing I liked to mix D-52 for warmtone papers. That one hasn't been made for years.

Mike
 
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