Fair prices for M3 DS and SS CLA'd?

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I am looking at a selection of these cameras on various websites and at a few stores. I don't know what to expect in terms of prices.

What is a DS M3 with a rigid summicron, CLA'd, worth in USD? What about a mint one? What if it's pretty well used?

I am about to buy one, now that I have a job again. I will never pretend I have self control or money sense.
 
The prices fluctuate a lot. But I have seen a few M3 SS, CLA'd, for $900. A DS, also CLA'd, for $800. This is without the dings and any malfunctions at all.

I'd say anything lower than that for an M3 in excellent condition is a fair price.
 
Like Gabriel said, but for the body only. For the rigid Summicron, add another US 400 in excellent condition.

Truly Mint M3 bodies are very rare and very expensive (> US 2000).

Roland.
 
A good way to get a sense of the market is to go on eBay and put a bunch of the M3s on your watch list and see what they go for. No need to rush - there are always plenty listed on the 'bay.

/Ira
Woof...woof...I see there's another dog on top of me.
 
Topdog1 said:
A good way to get a sense of the market is to go on eBay and put a bunch of the M3s on your watch list and see what they go for. No need to rush - there are always plenty listed on the 'bay.

/Ira
Woof...woof...I see there's another dog on top of me.
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Yep 🙂 Woof (much deeper)

KEH is also a good price checker ...

Roland.
 
KEH seems to have a few at less than $500. If I were to buy an M3, I would pick one out (except one with a dim viewfinder), and send it to Youxin Ye for a $90 CLA.
 
ray_g said:
KEH seems to have a few at less than $500. If I were to buy an M3, I would pick one out (except one with a dim viewfinder), and send it to Youxin Ye for a $90 CLA.
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Where is this Youxin Ye? What is shipping going to cost me from Seattle, WA in the USA?

Right now, I am preparing to buy a kit for $1000 that has been cleaned. It is an 8 in terms of cosmetics (paint coming off the back door), but all the glass is perfect and the viewfinder is in perfect condition.

If I could find a $500 body and have it cleaned for $90, that would be awesome, but I think I like the idea of the whole kit together.

I really don;t have the money for this, though.
 
So is there a real good reason why someone would want to go with the metal pressure plate ss over the glass pressure plate DS?
 
ray_g said:
Here's a recent thread, George. He is in the Boston area. His email is in the thread.
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thanks. I appreciate that. He appears to be a stand-up guy. And with a track record like that, I think I'd not hesitate to send my camera to him. If I buy one.
 
About...$750 for a working M3 DS, clear VF, smooth film winder and clean inside....but with very few dings and scratches in the finish and some peeling on the leather.
 
shutterflower said:
So is there a real good reason why someone would want to go with the metal pressure plate ss over the glass pressure plate DS?
Click to expand...

Besides the single stroke and metal plate (which I don't care so much about) the ss has other advantages, like DOF markers in the viewfinder and a younger RF (there is a risk of RF disintegration with the M3). Also, very old, glass plate M3 bodies have different/non-standard (for today) shutter times.

Roland.
 
ferider said:
Besides the single stroke and metal plate (which I don't care so much about) the ss has other advantages, like DOF markers in the viewfinder and a younger RF (there is a risk of RF disintegration with the M3). Also, very old, glass plate M3 bodies have different/non-standard (for today) shutter times.

Roland.
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I found one I want bad, but it certainly has those old shutter times. That, I find to be a trouble because I don't have a meter that will allow me to begin learning to meter by eye. Is there a meter out there that would? I mean, one that doesn't attach to the camera, because I would never use that.
 
The analog scale of my Quantum meter has 3rd exposure/aperture stops; not sure about the older Gossen meters but I believe they have similar scales,
so one of these older meters should work.

Good luck,

Roland.
 
for 800 bux to 1000 bux M3 kit, i would look for a late production M3 because it is said to be better build and I wouldn't risk to have a decementing prism finder on older M3 wich is costly to have fixed. There are plenty M3 on the bay but again you cannot check for finder brightness.
A late prod M3 is a true jewel, but DS M3 are said to be the smoothest!
 
edodo said:
for 800 bux to 1000 bux M3 kit, i would look for a late production M3 because it is said to be better build and I wouldn't risk to have a decementing prism finder on older M3 wich is costly to have fixed. There are plenty M3 on the bay but again you cannot check for finder brightness.
A late prod M3 is a true jewel, but DS M3 are said to be the smoothest!
Click to expand...


well, I don't worry about the mechanics, as the seller has had it cleaned and says it is in perfect condition in that sense.

As far as build quality, how is the later version of better build? I understand that the Weztlar Leicas are the primos in terms of collectability.

I am watching a boxed, untouched M3 right now, and also a MINT Canadian model.

Are the M3s from Midland any good?
 
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