Fast tabbed M-mount 35 for under $1500

[froyd]

Is there any alternative that's offer higher optical IQ than the Nokton and meets the following criteria:

- Has tab focusing
- Focuses to .7m
- Costs less than $1500.
- Opens at least to f2, and if f2 is the starting point it must be sharp and usable
- No ZM lenses: can't get along with 1/3 f stops and the little focusing nub.

From what is read the early Summiluxes might not be a step up in image quality and will be a step back in minimum focusing distance. I'd be willing to give up a couple of stops and look at early Summicrons, but only if performance at f2 is outstanding right off the bat and I don't have to close up a stop or two to achieve performance on par with the Nokton. Distortion is not an issue as much as center sharpness and good BW rendering.

 

[maddoc]

From my experience an early 35mm Summicron (vs3) fits your criteria quite well and is available < US$1000. I have a 35/1.4 Summilux pre-ASPH and personally find it very usable already from f/1.4 but it is very prone to flare and those ghost rings can ruin a photo easily. Additionally, the close focusing distance of the Summilux is 0.9 m only and using filter is a hassle.

 

[Archlich]

The Konica M-Hexanon 35/2 would fit the bill. Native M mount, has the tab, focuses down to 0.7m, modern, sharp wide open, superbly built and cost less than $1,000.

 

[michaelwj]

I'll second Gabors assessment of the early 35mm summilux and add that the real plus for me is lack of distortion.
If the Nokton is not sharp enough by f/2, I doubt you'll be happy with a v2/3 summicron. The main drawback of the Nokton for me is the distortion, but if that's not an issue, then it must be top of your list.

 

[ferider]

There really isn't. The v2/3/4 Summicrons are better in the center than your Nokton at f2 but not by much and far from sharp in the corners until f5.6 or so.

Optically, the 35 VM Ultron would fit, but it has no tab. If you don't mind going to 28, that Ultron is a superstar and has a tab.

Maybe spend a couple of 100 bucks more and get a used asph Summicron ? I'd stay away from m-hexanons unless you feel lucky or don't mind going via dag. The LTM Hexanons are pretty good but you know that.

Roland.

 

[Jamie Pillers]

I'll second Roland's idea of the VM Ultron. I've read a lot of really good things about it (but haven't used one yet). You can solve the tab issue by buying an add-on tab, or do as I've done in the past and use Sugru to make your own tab... Looks a bit... um... handmade, but works great.

 

[Jamie Pillers]

I'll second Roland's idea of the VM Ultron. I've read a lot of really good things about it (but haven't used one yet). You can solve the tab issue by buying an add-on tab, or do as I've done in the past and use Sugru to make your own tab... Looks a bit... um... handmade, but works great.

Here's a link to an add-on tab idea: http://www.lenstab.com/

 

[nickthetasmaniac]

Is there any alternative that's offer higher optical IQ than the Nokton and meets the following criteria:

- Has tab focusing
- Focuses to .7m
- Costs less than $1500.
- Opens at least to f2, and if f2 is the starting point it must be sharp and usable
- No ZM lenses: can't get along with 1/3 f stops and the little focusing nub.

As other have mentioned, the VM 35/f1.7 Ultron fits the bill for everything but the tab, and from all reports is a stellar lens (buggered if I can figure out Voigtlander's logic with tabs - 28mm Ultron, tabbed, 35mm Ultron, no tab, 35mm Color Skopar, tabbed, 50mm Nokton, no tab...)

 

[maitani]

at 1500 or even below you should be able to find a nice copy of V4 summicron. bests maitani

 

[ruby.monkey]

You can always throw a TAAB on any lens that takes your fancy. That might widen your options.

 

[giulio stucchi]

A used (user condition) summicron 35 asph seems to be what you are looking for if you like it's rendering in BW (I do but I also own a lux 35 pre-asph for a more "vintage" look)

Giulio

 

[froyd]

The Konica M-Hexanon 35/2 would fit the bill. Native M mount, has the tab, focuses down to 0.7m, modern, sharp wide open, superbly built and cost less than $1,000.

This intrigues me. I'll have to research more about the rendering.

 

[froyd]

Here's a link to an add-on tab idea: http://www.lenstab.com/

Thanks for the TAAB link. I don't think the little device would work on the M-Ultron with its knurled focusing ring. I had the LTM ultron and did not like it for the .9 minimum focus, and poor ergonomics, but the new one solved both those problems.

Incidentally, the Ultron is a strange beast to me: the images I took with it had a very modern, corrected geometry, good sharpness, but a softness of colors and tones that I associate with older lenses -- while this can be considered an ideal set of features, it struck me as neither fish nor fowl.

 

[froyd]

Pretty specific conditions you set here. Gets me wondering.

Why sharp at 2.0 and not, say 4.0? Is there no latitude of two stops in the subject matter you shoot? Exposing slides maybe?

If your lighting conditions are that specific, you must be in a studio setting? Easy solution: add more light and use 2.8 or 4.0.

If no studio setting and you want a sharp 2.0 as a base line, would cranking up ISO or ASA be an alternative option? Or are you planning to print big and need to lose grain or noise?

Questions, questions... 😉

I normally shoot the Nokton at f2 and up. I don't trust myself at f1.4 because I often use the 35 close to min focusing distances. F2 is an acceptable starting point for me in a 35 lens and it's an f-stop that I use quite a bit for my indoor photos (f2 at 1/30 or 1/60 with iso 400 film). Therefore, it's important that a replacement lens performs well from that aperture.

 

[ferider]

Thanks for the TAAB link. I don't think the little device would work on the M-Ultron with its knurled focusing ring. I had the LTM ultron and did not like it for the .9 minimum focus, and poor ergonomics, but the new one solved both those problems. Incidentally, the Ultron is a strange beast to me: the images I took with it had a very modern, corrected geometry, good sharpness, but a softness of colors and tones that I associate with older lenses -- while this can be considered an ideal set of features, it struck me as neither fish nor fowl.

The VM Ultron is a different beast; different design when compared to LTM version. Higher contrast and one of the most flare proof lens that I've ever used.

Roland.

 

[splitimageview]

Hexar AF 35/2 converted to M by MS-Optical 😉

 

[helen.HH]

What a Sweeeet tiny Lens 'splitimageview'

Please post a photo from it, would love to see tge way it draws 😉

 

[splitimageview]

Hexar test-006 by Chad Wadsworth, on Flickr

Hexar test-001 by Chad Wadsworth, on Flickr

 

[nickthetasmaniac]

Hexar AF 35/2 converted to M by MS-Optical 😉

If you don't mind sharing, what does one of the MS Optical conversions cost?

 

[kiemchacsu]

Hexar AF 35/2 converted to M by MS-Optical 😉

Really? I mean R E A L L Y?