FE vs FE2

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Is the FE2 that much better than the FE?

All things being equal, except that the FE is black body vs the chrome FE2, which would you let go first?
 
I only have the FE, which I bought new in 1983 or thereabouts and it's worked perfectly since then without a service or any maintenance by me. I've heard that as the FE2 is technically more sophisticated it may be harder to repair, relatively speaking, should problems occur.

I guess it depends how much that high top speed is useful to you.
 
The FE2 also has TTL flash metering, and a 1/250 flash synch. But the FE is a nice solid camera in its own right.
 
Why would you let go of either? I have two FE2s and they are not worth much, so I keep 'em and use 'em!:) Love these bodies and a backup is always a good idea, not to mention use one for color and the other for b/w.
 
On the FE, and also the FM, you can flip the Ai tab up out of the way and mount pre-Ai lenses, still need to meter with stop down mode. On the FE2 and FM2, you cannot flip the tab up so no pre-Ai lenses. You do get higher flash sync and maybe higher top shutter speed.
 
I think the FE's were prone to some electrical issues.

Yes. I have owned three FE, all bought new in the 1980's : all had the same electrical issue (erratic shutter speeds either in Auto or manual modes) eventually.

The FE2 has an improved quartz-regulated circuitry which drives the shutter and thus, is highly more reliable than the FE.

Actually I don't know of any FE2 having had some electrical problems. This might be the best bang for the bucks now for people looking for an FM3a but finding out that they have become darn expensive...

Of course you can decide to trust Ken Rockwell... :D
 
Of course you can decide to trust Ken Rockwell... :D

Hahaha, that was a good one! I didn't and I just got a FE2 from a nice RFFer. The FE2 is awesome for the price, specs, size and weight (far from the F2 in term of build quality though). So as said above, unless you need that bunch of dollars just keep them both loaded with different films and keep shooting them! ;)
 
On the FE, and also the FM, you can flip the Ai tab up out of the way and mount pre-Ai lenses, still need to meter with stop down mode. On the FE2 and FM2, you cannot flip the tab up so no pre-Ai lenses.

I have always wondered whether it could be possible to install the FM/FE Ai coupling ring under the FM2/FE2 (or all other Nikon cameras having an Ai coupling ring with the non-flipable plastic Ai tab, including the recent pro DSLRs) lensmount so that you have the flipable metal Ai tab instead of the non-flipable plastic one.

Hmmm.
 
...which would you let go first?

You own them, and want to sell? If so, then why do you ask - you should know which you prefer?
They are between 25 and 35 years old and it would not make sense to speculate as to which might break first.
They are not particulary valuable so I wouldn't let go of any. Or if I absolutely had to, I would make it an emotional choice rather than a rational.
 
I have had my FE2 since it was purchased new as part as an insurance settlement. It replaced my F2 as the most used camera in my kit. I have never had a bit of trouble with it. It is probably my favorite film SLR. Quick handling and light weight (slightly heavier and larger with the MD12 attached). The aperture priority operation (my first camera with this feature) works flawlessly. The main drawback is the use of Ai lenses only. If this is an issue then go with the FE. I had a few of my most used older Nikkors Ai'd to use with the FE2.

Mike
 
How do the two viewfinders compare?
They're 100% identical but for the FE2 focusing screens being 1/2 F-stop brighter than the FE focusing screens and the FE2 displaying a red +- signal when the exposure compensation ring isn't on 0, which the FE viewfinder doesn't.

Of course you can install the B2 - E2 - K2 focusing screens in the FE and permanently set the exposure compensation ring on +0.5.

Another difference is that when you use the exposure lock in Auto mode by pushing the selftimer lever towards the lensmount, the black needle in the FE2 viewfinder locks up while the FE one still moves according to light variations when you recompose and keep your finger on the exposure lock lever, so with the FE you might not know at which speed the shutter will fire actually if you haven't recorded in your mind the speed the black needle was facing when you pushed the exposure lock lever.

Other that that, nothing to mention.

But for that plastic non flipable Ai tab, the FE2 is an improvement over the FE on all aspects so fool would be the photographer having both, then selling the FE2 and keeping the FE.
 
But for that plastic non flipable Ai tab, the FE2 is an improvement over the FE on all aspects so fool would be the photographer having both, then selling the FE2 and keeping the FE.

Unless you like black cameras, or really need the additional $50 you could get for the FE2.
 
Is there anything wrong in his comparison of these both cameras?
Yes.

"This original FE uses half the battery power of the newer FE2 because the FE2 needs stronger shutter springs to get 1/4,000, and the batteries have to power the electromagnets to hold that. I prefer the FE's power switch, which is pulling out the film wind handle, over the 16-second-per-tap shutter button switch of the FE2. My FE is always on when I need it, and the FE2 keeps turning off on me. The FE has a dedicated battery test light, while the FE2 simply stops working to tell you it's time to replace them."

1. Not true, the FE2 battery life is longer than the FE one because of the quartz-regulated shutter which is a remarkable energy saver. The 1/4000 shutter by no means requires some extra power.

2. Not true : the FE2 exposure compensation -+ red signal in the viewfinder also behaves as a battery tester, and Nikon wrote it in the user's manual.

And the FE also stops working when the battery dies, there are no bells and whistles telling you the battery's dead on those cameras.
 
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